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AngryRB

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Everything posted by AngryRB

  1. AngryRB
    Good job holding onto this beast, looks pretty sick especially with sunroof.. You say 450kw.. i think of atleast an RB30 or a 3.4 stroker ??
  2. AngryRB
    Will find out soon, waiting on a new battery as sitting so long has stuffed the battery.. Chasing an issue where it fires on 5 cylinders, what would cause cylinder 3 to not fire? Ive changed plugs, new coil and now coilpack harness.
  3. AngryRB
    Car developed a rattle noise on cold start, so ordered a brand new VCT gear and solnoid. Fitted them up after fitting the ring to make the VCT adjustable again. Fired her up and noise has gone.
  4. AngryRB
    Try leak testing with 20psi..
  5. AngryRB
    Abbott engines on the Gold Coast ?
  6. AngryRB
    Relax man.. was only a suggestion, it does sound good now from what you've said.. For a budget slapper with a $200 bottom end it works fine for me, obviously a haltech would be best.. I said i run flex as in eflex from united. Did the nistune save your boat?
  7. AngryRB
    Its dedicated E85/flex, it doesnt run a flex sensor but i have 3 servos nearby so no issues.
  8. AngryRB
    https://www.supertechperformance.com.au/s6637-engine-valves
  9. AngryRB
    I run flex fulltime with no issues, i can check knock and sensors are working and is easy for my tuner to play with. Does the job for $600.
  10. AngryRB
    Power fc ?
  11. AngryRB
    A few comparisons of other factory 3L factory cams but they have restrictive stock ex mani and lower comp probably. 2JZ has In 224 7.88 and Ex 233 8.4, Z32 has In 248 8.5 Ex 248 8.5 Z33 has In 238 9.2 Ex 240 9.2 http://www.tomeiusa.com/_2003web-catalogue/e090_camshaft-specs.html Neo cams are In 236 8.4 Ex 232 8.7 which are very close to RB26 cams, but neo has bit more lift. The drop in duration from 240 in the r33 but extra lift is interesting as the compression was bumped up at same time. I reckon the 260s are suited to 3500rpm onwards but at typical road conditions does rob response. I noticed now that at 2k and accelerating out a corner im pretty sure its starting to surge.. makes a fluttering sound, that plus has always been hard to drive at a crawl or cruise as it jerks.. If this is reversion then the right duration will likely make a notable difference in response and drivability.. Be interesting to drive a 2JZ, they some low duration cams..
  12. AngryRB
    Thanks for all the replies The stock cams might be worth a go but then i lose lift so maybe weaken the 3.5-7K which is a fail... So thinking if i can have the 260's ground back to like 244degrees or stock duration and would that make the ramp rate more aggressive..( i hear thats a good thing) Tigh cams said they can reduce the duration but i dont know enough to understand how that affects overlap, ramp rates and what duration is the sweet spot.. Also, if duration is reduced too far eg 240, would i then have knock issues? As i said from start, im only looking to improve response and shift curve to left, not lose any.
  13. AngryRB
    I had the twin scroll setup on RB25, it wasnt very impressive, alot of stuffing around and expense compared to a cam swap..
  14. AngryRB
    I emailed kelford and tighe cams, kelford just say that there cams wouldnt be any better but also say they can give stock like response whatever that means.. but i was expecting more depth and enthusiasm in the reply which is disappointing if they are experts in there field... Tighe cams didnt respond at all... so after much reading of sau threads it would seem that lift is important but duration should be kept stock or to a 250deg.. Info on cams is a bit hit and miss really and i beleive there is a sweet spot to be found.. so my current thought is i will try a set of 250deg 9.15lift from japan cause i have little faith in companies that give short or no responses... japanese atleast are passionate about engines it seems... So maybe ill be the ginnea pig and give a direct comparison of 252 vs 260 on an RB3025... as i think stock cams lack lift to get max area under curve... Will also try advance a 252 intake.. Im out til is done.. cheers
  15. AngryRB
    Its probably the angle on the gate, as my tuner put it to me, its like cars on the highway trying to make a 90deg turn off, kind of hard to do...
  16. AngryRB
    It still works but its become noisy so ive stopped driving it.
  17. AngryRB
    Looks good mate, i know that feeling so well, just imagine turning to key and hearing that purr, i like seeing them dynoed, gets me motivated ?
  18. AngryRB
    Thanks titan, ive actually been trying to beat or equal al's dyno curves cause they look so good. Is interesting, assuming he used an r33 head and 256 cams with 98ulp hes got 150kw at 3000rpm compared to my 100kw, so im well behind but catch up by 4k.. 50kw at 3k is significant in a streeter, i guess if i ran 20psi and ramped up the boost controller plus advancing the intake cam id be close.. Food for thought...
  19. AngryRB
    I did but i think requires tuning at same time as it became quite lumpy and shaking at idle. After reading many threads looks like these cams are suited for up to 8000rpm. Far too much for my needs, plus a GT30 is too small for this much duration even though its not laggy. So i think a lower duration and overlap but keep 9.15 lift is worth persuing at this stage. See how much area under curve is possible.
  20. AngryRB
    Like i said im not really complaining, i just want to pull the curve to the left more and fatten it up. So i have been quoted ~$400 to regrind the tomei down to whatever duration i want and retain the 9.15lift.. Would a 240duration and 9.15lift be a good thing for area under curve?
  21. AngryRB
    Can the poncams be modified/reground to keep the lift but reduce duration?
  22. AngryRB
    Thanks disco, makes alot of sense and the engine also has a high revving feel to it and the booming noise at 2k and under, it actually feels like its labouring at low revs. Compression is there still as it feels a bit jumpy and jerky on low revs also, a comp test would be interesting actually. This clip shows flooring 3rd, i can live with this but i want more rapid spool as i said, so stock cams maybe give that back. 20171127_173943.mp4
  23. AngryRB
    Would the 3.7 diff load it up and make it come on boost earlier? Turbo is new and ceramic coated so not really i wanna do for 500rpm..
  24. AngryRB
    Yeah im not really complaining that its laggy, there is lots of compression off boost and is far better than a RB25 with a 3076.. But i think maybe as a street car it would be more fun if the torque curve shifted to the left atleast 500rpm. My experience of the VL turbo was a strong pull from 2000rpm to 4000rpm which at the time was hilarious especially after being used to a mitsubishi magna. A car that has strong torque from lower in the revs is far more entertaining than one that gets crazy from 3500rpm as by then my licence is going to be lost and ive become anti social lol. So i have a 0.63 rear in possession and i reckon what the hell lets bolt it on and see how the dyno compares, maybe cause E85, cams, sinco mani and any other means i can pull off an extra fat curve which in lower gears will feel more rewarding with a 3.7 diff etc to get traction..
  25. AngryRB
    Thats an awesome result ^^^^^ I think my VCT gear is shagged, was making tapping noises which has now turnt into a grind type noise.. so game over for now lol..
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