AngryRB

I would go for something with some cubes, r33gtst minimum, id be looking at supra turbo's, vl calais turbo, a 3L base is a great building block for a large garrett

starting to agree here, was down at power cruise today, i must of saw atleast 3 falcon turbo motors that had been transplanted into imports and a vl.. also with a massive garrett bolted on

would there be much difference if the gt30 was running 10psi and the gt35 7psi or would the gt30 build too much back pressure and have to be detuned to compensate? im thinking the gt30 would be more responsive and compact due to the gas converter sitting near by

Ive been toying with the idea of a turbo conversion on my xr6 AU ute. Question is , how would a GT3076 1.06rear with external gate compare to a gt3582 with 1.06 internal? Goal is maximum torque and lowish revs ( under 4000rpm), power 250kw max I hear the gt3582r doesnt make much noise, id like this thing whistling its tits off so gt3076 is what im leaning towards, but im thinking theres a 10lbs/min difference at say 12psi so thats going to have an effect on the way it drives. thoughts?

I have been ok so far, ( touch wood), got pulled over for an inspection a month ago, the police are from what i have observed were looking for BOV,ride height, loud exhausts, screamers, basically anything that looks like a backyard job with unsafe vibes about it , one the other end of spectrum, my first r31 import i had a copper hunt me down with sirens blazing from km's away like i robbed a bank, old copper so depends who you get.

so are you trying to run a stock computer with a Q45 throttle and aftermarket intake manifold? i didnt think that could be done without a tune.. would the engine not be getting too much air at idle if not tuned for that throttle body? In my experiences with my own car, i had a blown intake manifold gasket which caused alot of lean running on idle and mega rich on boost, sounds like it needs a proper tune for all the recent mods.

i think the idea is to have the rb30 capacity but able to rev like an rb25? im interested to know too, the shorter stroke does sound less exciting.

thanks mate, your input is appreciated as always

wouldnt an rb30et with a gt30 put out more torque than a 2.8 diesel turbo? considering the gears are so short, or is the comp ratio of a diesel the difference? just interested to know..

Hoping its the wheel bearings, guess they should be replaced anyway, likely to be the originals.. I will look into the diff mounts and subframe mounts cause there is some movements happening at very low speed on a rough bumpy drive way.. So thinking bout diffs, id be after an improvement without any driveability issues like locking up wheels when doing a turn or harsh/rough with street driving, so whilst i will do some research , whats your opinion on a suitable diff ? lastly, would i benefit from a slight step up in the diff ratio to make my gears a touch longer, eg couple hundred rpms and what ratio would that be?

later on when its fairly steady, eg fullboost coming at 3000rpm, then you can try ramping it on before that point, so 90%duty upto 2500rpm where it cant reach full boost, then bleed it down to the previous duty.

you should really do yourself a favour and make that thing stealth as possible, i mean make it as clean and sensible as possible. My pulse starts racing at the site of police and i dont have a screamer or atmo bov, dont give them a reason, show ya maturity and they'll respect you for it, hmm i hope lol

Ive had a noise from the rear of the car which has been there for a couple of years, but most recently has become loud enough to be a concern. Its hard to describe it exactly, it is loudest at around 90km/hr , its pulsing low dull roar sound, im wondering wether its a wheel bearing, cheap crap tyres or a diff thats going, ive jacked the car up and the back wheels are solid. one point relevent or not, whilst hard acceleration in second i get massive wheel spin which sometimes starts to grip and shake the driveline, and also last time at drags it started gripping during the burnout too, so question is ... what does a dying diff sound like? how can i distinquish the problem without wasting money...

My stock radiator packed up last week too! was lucky that it didnt overheat , i just noticed it all pissing out from underneath when i got home, the stock one is really thin and looking at it i dont know how it lasted so long.. anyway, i ended up getting a cheapy from autobarn but looks the same as the one you've pictured, says MSpec on the top, i guess it was just a matter of time hey.... that whistle is awesome in the vid more vids needed

so throttle control applies to coming out of corners but in a straight line do they not just mash it? If your already in a straightline, then with a good setup it should swat down and pretty much dig in,

yes thats true, still cheaper for me though, i get 350km from E85 and 450km from pulp so still better, small price to pay for an extra 40kw , but depends where you live obviously. My falcons dual fuel so definitely will get some E85 later.

My ideal sleeper would be a stock 1984 toyota supra, electronic dash, quiet exhaust, with a twin turbo transplant, stock on outside.

where are you located? i can remember going thru/speaking to many tuners and my experience was 90% of them talk stories and take your money, my tuner allowed me to watch him tune the car and was completely honest and his interests were to do the right thing by the customer, if you cant talk to a tuner and they get the shits then just walk out, keep looking...

I would of thought using a light oil like 0-40 for street duties and a thick oil 10-60 for track would be sensible, and dropping the oil after each purpose is fulfilled, im guessing racepace wouldnt build the tightest engines if there built to be thrashed around a track, originally the 0-30w recommendation must of been for a tight motor out the factory.

the one your thinking of is just near the gateway on kessels rd, theres three others which are at springfield lakes, coomera and marsden, cheapest has been $1.06/L but usually around $1.20 which is like 45cents cheaper than pulp.. Also dont get in a habbit of running on the empty line, just incase the pump is out of order, thats happened to me a couple of times lol. I dont have any fancy ECU, mines just a power FC thats tuned very safely to allow for variations , and so far theres been nothing significant because my knock levels never exceed low 20's on the power fc.

i must have somthing wrong then, according to the power fc, im at approx 50degrees within 5min. living on acreage it can take that long to get out the front gate with a toddler getting his seatbelt on, lol, then after 5-10min at 60-80k/hr im upto high 70's, do you guys recommend a standard thermostat or aftermarket? and what coolant temp is considered the normal?

id rather spend the money and convert to E85 than pay for crapy 98 ever again, ill be converting my xr6 + turbo when its on the road, i filled up the skyline for $1.06/L last week, so much better than $1.65plus for 98.. 60cents is massive difference for a big step down.

do you still have the radiator?

try replacing fuel filter and pump

water meth setup then..