AngryRB

well its a sprint gas system so i dont know how it works, wether it part of the petrol computer of seperate, i know it runs petrol first then after it warms up a bit it switches to gas if selected for gas ,( has a switch for gas/fuel), might need a computer that can handle two maps and have it tuned with two maps? i really want to make it a low budget setup, $3500 max.. all second hand parts and do fab work myself if i can.. gas injection isnt really an option, i wonder if it could run the turbo on say upto 5psi and then switch for upto 8-10psi, or maybe the gas map would have reduced timing.. certainly throws a spanner in the works how does the tickford respond the the gt35? is it laggy at all

well whats happened to the stock boost feed from the compressor cover then?? im confused why the boost is fed from that t section... how could it be a rev limiter cut? hes got a stock ecu doesnt he??? he'd need atleast a power fc to implement a rev cut? what boost cut are you talking about, i have a s2 and when i had stock computer with high flow there was no such thing, it just boosted up and up and up so im confused here... i think he should just connect the stock setup like it would be stock, and replace afm and connect filter again ... If your after an afm i have one sitting on my desk here that no one would buy, if you pay for postage its yours...its mint

mines an external gate setup so probably wouldnt help, just connect the compressor cover one to the bottem and then from the solnoid connect a line to the actuator and see what happens, your bascially just feeding the pressure to the actuator from the compressor outlet so probably work either way, but expose the actuator under the big flat cover so you can see if it is connected to somewhere or not.. could be just clutching at straws here, hope that helps someone chime in to correct if im wrong...

It sounds to me like its atleast contributing if not the solution, you have a vacumn leak and you have no boost control so its overboosting by sound of it and hitting massive RnR, connect the lines back up properly and see what happens from my experience with my own coilpacks, they didnt affect idle they made the engine start backfiring a bit violently at about 4000rpm on high boost with around 200kw , check your plugs and hose clamps too

from memory, you should have one from the compressor cover, on the side, that will plug in the the solnoid and then the actuator one will also plug in , can you locate them?

thanks, some good info there most falcons seem to gt3582's upward, i wonder if a gt3076 with a .82 or 1.06 would work well, as id like the turbo to be able to start pulling pretty much straight off the line with the auto like a VL would , also from what ive read the stock computer uses a map sensor so it may run safely on low boost, but a chip probably a good idea Im not a fan of supercharging, i like hear turbo spooling noises and the sudden surge of torque comming onto boost compared to the linear delivery of the supercharger..

wonder if im seeing it wrong but does the top of the boost control device have no hoses? or am i looking at somthing else, pretty sure mine has some vacumn hoses connected to that, second picture where the fingers are, under powersterring reserviour

can you change me to AngryRBGTX please? thankyou in advance..

how would spraying the air filter with throttle body cleaner be a good thing? wouldnt you just replace it if standard and if a pod use some compressed air to blow in reverse direction?

agree.. an rb30 is a different world to rb25, id be building a torque monster with massive under the curve area, in the long run you may well get power hungry and with an rb30 its a much better starting point.

ive got a second hand one with a broken shaft, the rest could be used if you want it..

Maybe the right word instead of boost should of been "Torque", which is different for different turbo's with varying boost, on the same turbo though more boost will strain the clutches and they'll slip, also how much the auto slips the gears in compared to just dropping them in more, maybe if the solenoids could be adjusted to drop gears in more and less slipping would be a good thing to do.. My first skyline r31 auto was running 14psi which i didnt know until the gears started slipping badly, so more boost in that instance meant failure, dont know how much better the rb25 box is..

My tuner is so used to tuning power fc's that a complete new tune with different injectors,afm,turbo etc etc.. he got the car running reasonable within 5minutes, and on the dyno took no more than an hour then some small adjustments for half an hour.. in comparison the first tuner i used had it on the dyno for upto 4hours, another tuner asked me for the instruction manual WTF?? so i never used them, lol

reading your threads, you seem to be wanting an rb25 to have the torque that a big engine would have, as in low down streetable torque, to me an rb25 will never have that unless it has a smallish turbo that chokes on the top end so little top end.. you cant make a small engine a big engine even with E85 and whatever.. I agree that a streetable car needs low end torque at partial throttle, and the stock VL turbo has always had that, a stock vl turbo with the usual intercooler, boost, exhaust would have all the low down torque your after and with longer gears, eg 2500rpm in fifth is 110-115km/hr, In my opinion its hard to beat the RB30et for street duties, the rb25 is just a different beast and needs 4000rpm onwards and will never be great on the bottem end.. if it is then its all wrong cause it was never meant for that and it will be sacrificed in the mid to top end, Im not sure what a rb2530 does down low, but im guessing it would need revs being multi-valve.. the rb30et's manual gear box is totally up to the task as far as ratio's, and its diff seemed very adequate to me, that was with 200kw's.. went like a cut snake..

how much was yours then cause i was considering getting one from them... i got the 1000's in my 33 with a cheap topfeed rail so should be no problem with the 34.. dont the hypergear's need alot of boost, most graphs i see use over 20psi , so not great for the auto box..

for the injectors contact injectorsonline.com , i got my 1000cc ID's for $110each which is very reasonable, ive read on the forums a gt3076 can be had for $1200 from ATP in the usa, that would do the job nicely but not would need a custom dump pipe, probably need one anyway, you'll need atleast 3inch dump, the intake pipe isnt hard either could even do that yourself, buy a mandrel bent pipe from exhaust shope and some silicon hoses..

The type of surging ive heard is not mistakable, has a distinct sound, take the intake pipe off to see if the compressor wheel has left a grove in the cover, my brothers skyline turned out to have a gt2876, it has a line carve out of the compressor cover. Maybe inspect the fuel tank for debris and change fuel filter a few times.

yep, tip of the cap to those wheels, very practical without too much statements to the poolice.. how do the pinapples affect the ride, does it make it more comfortable or bit hard on bumps?

I questioned my number plate blocking my intercooler, but really it must be very little, mine pulls like a freight train no matter what, hot day, number plate half blocking cooler, whatever.... ya cant stop a gt3076 kicking ass lol

if he had some aftermarket cams, 140psi might be perfectly normal, and now there close in comparison compared to the original 50psi difference in number 6, and doing 12 second quarters it must be pretty healthy..

As said before, every engine and setup must contribute heavily then... The engine has close to 200k on it, comp test 175average, zero oil consumption and definitely a rich tune, people driving behind must be getting tipsy lol, hope theres no RBT around as i drive by, they'd all be taken into custody.. I would of thought the soot was from the 98 having being made from oil products, ethanol is an alcohol so how can you get soot? it should literally clean the soot out the tail pipe?

i think thats more to do with your oil being contaminated by your blow by gases, so if your engines loose you'll have black oil sooner, mine would go dark after a number of dyno runs, but not with normal use... im sure ill be corrected, now with ethanol it never gets dirty so must prove my point, but its still a clean oil whatever grade it is and has worked well for me.. my opinion only

what turbo are you using to get to 400kw? doesnt the E85 become cool enough when it vapourises, dam 400kw will be insane

Mobil 1 oil, always used it in mine from day one, never noisey, never changes colour, and no oil consumption, its impressed me, even with 300kw and ethanol its like honey on the dip stick... its 0w/40w

a garrett 2871r would be in the range, a 0.63 rear housing and cranked up to 18-20psi with possibly some E85 to make it come alive even more.. there common on sr20's from what ive seen/read.