AngryRB

get a ball bearing 2871r core into your rb20 or rb25 housings, for response use the rb20 housings, for more mid to top use the rb25 housing also, use a good boost controller to bring it on early and keep it on as long as possible, if possible get some ethanol too and wind up the timing with a tune and 20psi of boost..

maybe the vacumn hose is cracked or leaking? be better using a proper guage.

are there any 2years old's running around with a black crayon

i vote for the F$$k yeah feeling.. but have grown eyes in the back of my head

thats good then cause im not keen on oiling filters, would having a cold air intake in the lower front bumper collect this kind of dirt/bad idea ? i know for wet weather its a bad idea obviously, but otherwise it seems perfect, series 2 that is.

how do you oil an apexi filter properly? what about a HKS mushroom filter, does that need oil too?

wonder how long you'll be happy lol.. im betting you'll get the power bug soon and go gt30 territory..its an addiction.. sell that turbo and get a gt3076 and start frying 2nd and 3rd.. then you'll think shit.. this is good.. hahah

certainly is awesome fuel, my tuner was laughing how easy it was to tune, put 6degrees extra on the whole map and knock levels have never gone over low 20's on the power fc, even with 3 adults up a steepish hill 3rd gear full throttle.. just amazing. the V8 boys came in to see what was doing.. they reluctantly gave a nodd to the results..

happy for you mate, feels so good to have the beast running like it should be even 200kw's can be great fun..careful where ya pick the squirts now...

I dont know anything about standard springs, but yeah they seem just a bit on the hard side, was thinking they must be possibly a 12kg spring, so if dropping them to a 10kg was possible it would make the ride better, and aid in the launches at the drags although i may opt for some old stock rear suspension for that.. have 18inch wheels is obvioulsy not helping to cushion the bumpy rough roads, guess its a bit of a take the good with the bad, on a mostly smooth road its perfect..

^^^agree, i dont even need any boost to keep up with traffic, ethanol and a good tune with lots of timing

is it possible to replace the springs on some Ha Tein coilovers inorder to make the suspension more street friendly and not rock hard, my coilovers even on soft are still hard...

my map looks similar to yours, but i have 15 in the first few columns and in the middle where you have 40 , i have upto 44

I dont think the pull from a GTRS would be much more than a GT30 at lowish revs, with ethanol the GT30 even on 5psi which comes on very easy is more than enough to pull 5th up a reasonable hill 5psi on a GT30 is probably like 10psi on my old 2871highflow

i think im getting around 350km per tank, i was getting upto 450km with the 98, Its on the rich side id say because its tuned for varying content with just a power fc if its helpful i could try and paste a copy of my map for you..

have pics, can send on mobile

i bet it wouldnt take more than an hour for a workshop that knows what there doing, 2hours tops my whole intake pipe is basically just 1 45degree elbow, with one return for bov, rest is just silicon bits from autobarn.. so thats one weld of a small pipe onto a big pipe.. must be a 500percent profit there for them.. even the dump pipe looks relatively simple , just made up of all different pieces welded together, no real fabrication or great art work involved there for $700, might add it wasnt even clearing the fire wall and wasnt even supported, it was left to hang and swing like a slong... its a shame when workshops dont do the right thing, they just miss out on more $$ that i would of spent with them later with my other mods.. After going thru just about all the big name workshops in brisbane , ive found only 2 that do genuine quality work without the rip off..

not sure what you mean by cold starts being responsible for engine failures In the case of a high powered turbo engine, are you sure the most wear wouldnt be when its on full load/boost in a highish gear (eg. 20psi at 7000rpm compared to 2500rpm off boost) ? Id say for example , a dyno run would give more wear and tear than 5-10mins of cold start.. and at this time the 10-30 oil could be breaking down and becoming a 10-20 oil which could be a problem with bearings wouldnt it? so not sure i agree that viscosity isnt important , Ive always been a bit confused how oil can be thinner when its cold, cause when your pouring it appears thicker than when its comming out the sump hot.. can anyone explain that?

yeah maybe its not stock then, i watched it being wired and put in by the tuner interesting though, my battery light is on constantly and tuner said voltage is bit high, sitting on 15volts so must need a new reg or alternator, you'd think it would of blew a fuse by now.. have to look into that.. the 400L/hr pump is much quieter than the 255L/hr that it replaced, kind of miss the noise....

thanks mate, i changed my mind so all good, yeah ive put too much into to sell i think, would feel like a massive loss looks like it will just recieve more mods and go for some fun at the drags and drift track.. get my monies worth

think ill hold on to it for now, after last offer i spent money on tyres and going to keep it for while

yeah sorry, remove this made a mistake..

should be ok as long as the revs are kept high

tough decision, i guess drifting is about flogging it and sitting on the topish end, so 0.82 would be good for that.. you'll need a bullet proof clutch for that..

stao runs 850's with ethanol and getting upto and over 300kw's , correct me if im wrong.. if you have a stock rail with the 850's then no need for aftermarket reg, i went after market cause of the top feed rail.