AngryRB

thanks for explaining all that.. Im not sure i quite get my head around some of that , if the motor were down 50psi at 400rpm i would of thought thats a 30% loss of gas.. so at peak power it would be 30% still? so thats more like 1400psi instead of 2000psi which would be more than 5hp loss? comparing my E85result on 16psi to some others on 25psi, seems like my compression could be the difference to me.. thats what i though anyway.

R33 GTST S2 Stock Motor GTX3076 with external Tial44mm Gate 0.82rear 3 1/2 inch exhaust with 3inch rear oval muffler, 100cell cat 1000cc Xspurt injectors , walbro 400LPH E85 pump, turbosmart reg Power FC, Z32 airflow Apexi AVCR Tomei 256 8.5mm cams 4inch intake pipe Currently making 320kw on 16psi with a 20psi spike in midrange on Caltex flex fuel Made 280kw on 16psi using 98 20psi at 4000rpm :-)

i thought you would run from that cause it would be ready to blow up .. never heard anyone recommend to push a motor with more boost if its on its last legs.. usually tell you its a bad idea..is that so you can rebuild it for some $$$ hahaha

yes i sent it to him with my magic wond and magic hat.. obviously there is some error in the instruments, but i would like to think that all these sorts of equipment are tested to be within certain limits .. 50psi would be a rather MASSIVE error wouldnt it

teach me wise one... 2 rb25's one has 170psi , one has 120psi where did the 50psi go? if you were going to buy a motor for your car.. which would you be buying?

not scientifically, more estimating... eg. my rb25 has 9:1 compression and it has 170psi my old rb20 supposed to have 8.5 and it had 150psi my old cordia had 7.6:1 and had 150psi , then after cam drop in , went down to 120psi so estimating from above, all engines were healthy with moderate km's, 120psi must be quite low must be a big difference between 170psi and 120psi..

sounds like that motor has had alot of floggings in its life.. i have 170000ks and still have 170psi... its like dropping your compression ratio down to 7.6:1, like dropping in some massive cams and loosing the bottem end. why would that be ok? even if they are even

Do all engines with forged pistons have piston slap on cold starts??? seems self defeating if you spend all that money and have piston slap on start ups , the piston rocking in the bore all the time would surely make the whole expense of it a bit self defeating, would have accelerated wear on every start up wouldnt it?

looks a bit lazy..

If there the ones i have, then lol i hope you enjoy a the bumps I have mine set to the absolute limit on lowness for the rear ones and the fronts are about a quarter from the lowest, if you go too low on the front then obviously the tyres rub also the stiffness adjustment i have mine on softest it will go on back and maybe 5-6turns on front, takes a while to find the right settings and hight and also tyre pressure will play a part too.. have fun...

must of had a silencer somwhere.. cannons will never be quiet.. not like that.. put a high cell cat and you'll take some edge of it, better off with a 100cell cat or no cat, and a good sized oval proper muffler, semi straight thru

its a tedious process.. if it were done on dyno in forth then you can just do simple adjustments on the road for the other gears, keep raising the duty till you get the boost right, then have someone watch the guage under full throttle and tell you if its holding or if its spiking/bleeding off once you know exactly when full boost is eg.. 10psi at 3000rpm and holding steady to 7000rpm, then simply up the duty up in the first 3000rpm, eg 90%duty upto 2500rpm and bleed the duty off to whatever worked for after 3000rpm.. that will give you the best ramping possible... Be careful though, get it wrong and you'll blow that stock turbo up!!!!!!!

like i said 4th is the base, wind it up for the other gears, i have 90% for my duty upto 3000rpm, it brings it on like a cut snake.... thats for a big turbo

when is it hitting full boost? is that 12.75 holding or was it a spike? what gear?

on my apexi, i have the boost and duty cycle done and was on the dyno, that was for forth gear..which is where the base should be.. would get best results on a dyno.. on my apexi i can do adjustments for each gear , so you add say +10 at a time and see how it responds, best to ramp it up with the duty than have just a flat line.

i was thinking if its riding on the inside edge all the time, its copping the brunt of the work which is not really how they were designed to be on a wheel, but anyway, must just be some shit tyres then , looks like the actual tread is up and down bit, looks a bit strange.... time to save for somthing decent then. do many people rotate tyres front to back or do they put the sticky $$$ tyres on the back and have cheaper tyres on front?

Good spot! did you put any thread tape on the fittings? maybe its just a simple case of poor fittings and wrong washers

without proper specs you'll be firing it all day and pulling plugs out to dry them.. my settings turnt out to be a different from what was recommended with the formula's , took alot of hair pulling out sessions to hear it run properly... slightly less than double the fuel in my case

i cant say if that one will help much, i would guess it wouldnt cause it looks smallish... I have a 3 1/2inch system with hotdog resonator and a 3inch X force muffler ( large oval) , the muffler is semi straight thru and forces the exhaust into it to muffle the noise , but obviously its flowing great cause it made well over 300kw.. I think you would be happy with a similar setup, it has a nice muffled , tough note thats quiet enough to hear your radio without dronning. can hear it in my thread on the dyno...

cold starts are a bit hit and miss

Just wondering if having too much camber can make the tyres wall collapse or deteriorate, i have some tyres on the front and they are terribly noisey, wondering if its because they were cheapish or wether an expensive/higher quality tyre would be affected by camber, i know they will wear out on the inside, im taking about noise levels due to the structure of the tyres and it being cambered in , not sure how many degrees i have on the front but its clearly more than the stock rear camber...

I think that sounds spot on, when there isnt enough fuel things do get unresponsive and groan like your saying, when i was setting my injectors , i noticed when the mixture was on the lean side the throttle would be very unresponsive, would get so bad that it would stall with a stab.. but when the mix is right it response very fast.... maybe they were having a few beers when they were setting that part of the tune up..

seems like they have doubled in number round where i live, did they just give a ticket or did they pop the bonnet too?

Its noisy cause there practically no muffler, a rear cannon like that will do nothing if its straight thru.. its not much different to having just a straight thru pipe on the end... I used to have the exact same on the back, now i got a proper muffler and still make the power and it actually sounds alot nicer..

i would definitely be checking it and probably just get it done anyway, when i took mine off it was warped, the heat warps it , even your brakes get warped with alot of hard braking and eventually need machining, i got those extra long manifold bolts from ERD, but a nuts and bolts shop should have some good ones..