AngryRB

in that pic it does look like an oil supply line, confused me now, but anyway the bottem one is what mine is, i was guessing the other two are the return line and the feed from the back of the head, so 3 coolant hoses.. so only really need to do the 2 though, the one round the back of the head looks a bitch to get at.

mines the same as the image above, its the bottem hose of the three, so it screws into the stock line.. which is comming out at the corner of the exhaust manifold so that makes it a piece of piss to fit.. interesting, the fuel hoses are -6 too..

sounds like a nice meaty RB note, be interesting to see how much it drones..

my turbo has the braided line, it is connected to the original line just at the back of the head, fittings are all silver and look like there meant to be there, seems to be good enough i think its best not to go overboard incase you are pulled over and asked to open the bonnet for inspections..

go a low mount gt3076 0.63 rear with external run ethanol/water meth and a bigger fuel pump. will have response and top end and some change if you do most of the labour yourself.

11seconds with a highflowed turbo, holy moley..

what about ceramic coating it?? mine runs alot cooler , do you not let the car cool down after a flogging? i thought that journal bearings were old technology and dont spool up as early so were not the prefered choice.. if your manifold and housing get that hot then could that be also due to the housing being too small and the exhaust too restrictive causing a build up of backpressure...

give it to stao to hiflow!! you know you want too!! hahahah how can you say no to more powar!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

isnt that odd to max out that Q45 AFM? even my Z32 AFM isnt maxed out on an RB25DET, does the RB30 have that much more flow ?

are you going to balance the motor? was watching a car show called gasolene last night, anyway, the guy was rebuilding an old classic V8 and he was weighing every piston and every conrod, bearing etc then showed the correct way to bore a block which is very scientific indeed then he span the crank on a machine , i think that was great to see and if i do a rebuild in future i will defintely look into having that done, so i agree with birds, dont just get parts and slap it together, take your time and get things right, cause the end result will be a nice engine with a long life..... research and make sure you use a good engine rebuilder to to the crucial parts...

what about getting a mobile hydraulics guy to come out? what about autobarn, would they have any of those rails on the shelf?

check your wheel bearings too.. i think certain kinds of brake pads do make a squeal noise, sounds like the handbrake isnt releasing completely though.

better off welding it up then, a fire extinguisher onboard is a good idea.

what do you want to take it out for? do you want to use it or block it for extra room or somthing... i have a top feed rail and i just got it welded shut cause i dont need it

just shoot for 300kw and leave it there...

better check the whole car over, that sounds very dishonest of them. do they own any 34's themselves?

I think your cas might be broken inside, its happened to me before and i wondered why the car wouldnt start , then when i took it apart i could see the shaft was broken.. I also decided to not use the front timing belt cover anymore cause i wasnt sure if it was stuffing up the alignment..

Have you checked all the fuses, any major vacumn leaks? also you can take the CAS apart to check the shaft isnt broken..sounds like when my cas broke..

yeah thats probably normal, was just wondering why the 2 runners were noticably cleaner, but guessing it the vacumn leak and wd40 i sprayed on it when it was all assembled...

any thoughts?

After what im certain is a vacumn leak from the intake manifold ( top part gasket) , diagnosed by spraying the outside with WD40 now just notice that the runners 1 and 2 are squeaky clean looking and the others ( 2. 3.4 and 5) are quite dirtly looking, looks like soot maybe but could be from when the blowby return used to be on there.. so i guess just want to check, im assuming the WD40 cleaned the runners that had the leak?, is that right or does the engine has some underlying issues?

only time my oil turns to a dark colour is after a flogging on the dyno

sweet, ill be trying those setting out tomorrow, hopefully it should all fit together without drama's

is that from experience or a guesstimate? so do i not use the deadtime for anything?

ive used competition coating for my manifold and turbine housing, the high temp black one, seems to have reduced my coolant temperature a fair bit , could be the larger turbo contributing though, seems ok so far.. not fancy to look at though, just faded black looking..