AngryRB

my sympathy goes out to you.. that must be a terrible thing to drive, not to mention getting dragged off by barina's

Dropped the car at the tuner today, you were spot on, the problem was wet plugs, must of been from the first few attempts starting it, he ran it lean to clean them up and it came good, then i drove it to get fuel, already feels great even without the tune, just waiting for the dyno now

bet it doesnt pierce your ears with a loud crisp whistle!!

dont worry it just means your doing a good burnout lol its fairly common

its no different to any other rb25 with 300kw the dyno threads have the answers.

sounds like a hyundai excel, you just cant beat the sound of an rb.. you'd think 400kw would sound more angry.. sounds like 200kw

well there just poncams, most people say they wont affect idle at all, it was running ok before the cams , its more the z32 that made it run worse, constantly stalling , i think its time to put it on a trailer, i dont wanna stuff it up anymore.. Going to put some NGK platnium plugs in today and new throttle gasket and regasket the blow off valve just incase. Was going to put on cam gear but might wait and see what happens, anything over 280kw will be good.

thanks for that info, i tried it out just tonight 66.5% and 0.18ms and its not working, i have no idea whats doing here, it ran smooth for a short while and sounded sweet under a rev but then started breaking down like a wrx sound, shitload of fuel came out the tail pipe, i noticed as i locked up car. what about accel inj time, does that need changed? i can see 1000rpm 2.4ms 0.6ms 2000rpm 3.4ms 1.1ms i think i might have to just tow it on a trailer, it was starting to make like a light knock noise as it was wanting to stall, cant be good

what about a 300zx motor forged with heavy porting and a couple of gt28's bolted on with 25psi with E85, big cams etc... or an ls1 with twin turbo and supercharger

i have extra brackets made up for my dump, 3 1/2inch with external gate, it was swinging and moving around, so extra brackets to the bellhousing, and to the gearbox mount and i had to hit the tunnel in to make more clearance so it wasnt hitting the body. I dont think those split dumps are any good, the wastegate gas just goes straight into that flange separator and it ends up overboosting.

drop rb25 into it with basic mods or increase compression ratio, or highflow turbo or run E85 with alot of boost, or run methonal injection with alot of boost, a really good tune, find an rb30et and drop it in with the intercooler and a bar of boost now that will be one torquey thing in an r32. even standard they haul ass on a r32

how accurate is a pwr fc at detecting real knock? or are all computers about the same

hmm ok then ill try that and see if it wants to run, what about the check engine light? its on all the time, maybe it will go out when i select 66.5% and .18 What can i do to ensure its not running too lean, i take it those stock maps will be making it safe along with the above adjustments?

i have it set on VG30 and had the injection correction between .7 and 1.2 and it is just shaking, as soon as i touch the throttle to reverse it just stalls or wants to , no power, it has no ms data, so ill try the .18ms is that what your pwr fc has? what about the maps and ignition they all just say 100 across all boxes, should this come up accross like 100 100 105 110 115 etc? just want some numbers for low revs and idle

Im booked into get my car tuned next thursday, since the pwr fc was tuned last, i added a gtx3076, cams, 550nismos, 4inch intake, bigger dump, and Z32 It was booked in to be tuned a week ago and timing and basic stuff checked and although was running rough but drivable, just. i ended up missing the dyno cause it took longer than expected to get it ready. ok so the problem is silly me started playing with the computer, i hit yes to initialize and now everything has reset to stock. So i either copy someone elses fuel and ignition map and try to limp there or just tow it , rather not tow it so can anyone scan a few maps so i can try , cause at moment it starts and is showing engine light. as long as its not leaning out and runs on light throttle that will save $$ on towing it.

whats the problem with your car? if its starting to miss/backfire under load in the midrange then the coilpacks right up there on the list.

really? does it have that much effect, so a oil separater really is a good idea for high power cars, i thought that would just add to lubrication in the cylinders so any more results? dyno print out? and +1 about finding decent mechanics/tuners, PM me if you wanna know who to avoid in brissy..

I dont think that tuner is giving you value for money, sounds like a rip off to me. I just found a new tuner and he could not believe the tune that had been done previously, no wonder the car had no top end, they had tuned it to be weak at the top. taking someone elses tune and putting it in your computer is not a tune, thats what they can do and they know you have no idea. He should of tuned it for more than just highway. must of took half an hour that job.

he first tuned it without E85 and made 288kw with a 0.82rear on about the same boost, 4300rpm to get 200kw so they are comparable , take 20kw off for the rear housing difference and its very close, take into account a slipping clutch was was noted, and they would be very close at that point. so looks like the two are not far apart, and personally the sound of the 76 even in GTX form is awesome.

giddy up, will be watching for your results, one day mine will get tuned too to add to the GTX results. Just need a resonator and wait for a dyno to be available, they all booked out in brissy for winterinternationals and jamboree i think.

im still not convinced yet, hopefully with more add ons like cams, cam gear, better boost controller and maybe even the tuner, the gtx might do better than that graph. Looks like this result is no better than Micko's GTX3071, be interesting to see both graphs layed over each other.

maybe its not tuned properly, light throttle/cruising should be same.

Maybe a couple of your fuel injectors have siezed up? when i got my injectors cleaned the guy said that they can seize up and they need a tap to free them up. Not sure if that means removing them though, maybe someone else would know. If you think bout it, nothing has changed its just been sitting there.