AngryRB

what about adjusting the idle speed lower? would that help the idle test.. i have a 3 1/2inch system with restrictor in muffler but will put a 4inch nur spec muffler on soon, so ill be in the same boat, might be 100db so would 2 big 3 1/2 inch mufflers do the job? hmm have to wait and see, i think in queensland this isnt so much a problem..

since you guys are talking fuel pumps, whats the limit of power for walbro 255L/h and 555nismo's on pump98?

lol

what do you guys think about the Exedy sports organic, on the kudosmotorsport site, they have 3 options 225kw, 285kw and 330kw( 2922lbf clamping pressure which is 50% increase over standard) there $534 , what do people think about the 330kw option?? would that be as good as the NPC clutch or a cushioned button?

it was another great job done by a shit workshop, would it cost much to balance? does it need removed from car or how do they do it?

I think my previous 5puck may have been worse than it should of cause the flywheel must be a bit worped, when it got taken off the car it was only wearing on one half, I drove it for a week and just couldnt get used to it, the gearbox was taking a hammering, was making all sorts of noises, was thinking it was going to break. I hear the NPC 300kw clutch is a good one, maybe it can be made slightly stronger again to handle a bit more

when i first drained the oil there was about 3Litres in it, when i filled it up it overflowed at about 2.2Litres so i think the extra oil in there was creating drag maybe,is your car completely level when you fill it? I think if the gearbox is that bad and its looking like a rebuild time, then as a last resort you could try thinning it down alot, for example i must have about 1.2litres of nulon gearbox oil and about 1litres of Mobil Gold 0-40 so overall it must be about 60w. It took a few hundred km's to really get better too, its not an instant fix. Used to own a Mazda eunos and the synchros were worn out big time, the dealer said to put automatic fluid in which is very thin, it solved the crunching issues, box felt ok too, just saying as a last resort to try before rebuilding.

do you have a one piece tailshaft at all? my brothers r33 has a one piece tailshaft and it vibrates like that, at highway speed you can actually feel the rearview mirror vibrating,

yeah thats true, i have bad memories of the 5puck clutch that was in there 6months ago, i couldnt drive it and it was shaking the crap out of the whole driveline, so that power level is probably verging on the edge of the organics limit and more in the ceramic button zone, is the cushioned button clutch anything like the 5puk? cause its really the two options i think for around 300kw, also i dont often hang on the redline or do dumps/drifting etc my uses is 80% easy driving streets and 20% drags so id expect a clutch to last a long time

i think i will put the clutch in to save dissapointments on dyno day, im thinking the NPC 300kw rated organic clutch couple of questions 1) What is the proper clamping pressure that i need for the result just so i know what im buying? 2) I want a good bite and a firm to quite firm pedal so does this mean i want SPRUNG or UNSPRUNG center if that makes sense? ( not sure what makes the pedal feel more firm) the exedy i have has a soft pedal feel and lacks a good bite, so i dont wanna get it wrong.

i have exedy HD which isnt that old, but im not sure if it will hold upto 300kw on the dyno, so am thinking bout doing the 300kw clutch to make sure theres no issues, and the dyno time isnt wasted. anyone has an opinion on wether i should just see what happens or definetly fit the 300kw clutch.

Just wondering if its ok to have a clutch fitted, in this case NPC organic rated to 300kw, and then immediately have it tuned for the 300kw? will it grip and be ok, or does it have to have weeks of light driving ?

The RB25 is a revy motor by nature, why would you want to try and make it a responsive low down car? better off complementing the natural nature of the motor which a turbo comming onto full boost at 3500-4000rpm is the ticket, if you want low down power then you need a falcon or a vl turbo, so in this case why not get a gtx3076 so later when/if the motor blows you can rebuild for 350kw, from all the discussion its as if the gtx for only $200 more is a bad thing, noone with a good setup has proved that its slower spooling than a 3076 , and if so not by much. $200 is worth a better turbo.

using a power FC , and i have an AVCR so hope that will bring on the boost early as possible

i should have results from mine in a month or so, was driving around easy without a tune and the sound of it is amazing, it whistles like a trucks turbo,been keeping up with traffic even off boost

Pretty sure that is worn hydraulic lifters, have heard that in cars with high km's, but its usually just for 10-20seconds ive been using 0-40 mobil 1 and i reckon its perfect , wont change unless it starts using oil

this is how mine was idling after i did the cams, and it ran for about 80km's before it died, was that the right idle or was it on the way out from the start?

spot on, they can be like predators waiting for young guys with too much money to throw around, maybe thats the typical stereotype i dont know. Good to see you got a good job done for a reasonable price,

Your 100% right , mechanics can be full of it, i have gone must be atleast 5 workshops for different jobs and all really let me down, i just had a dump made up, took them 4 weeks to do it, they didnt event weld in the 02 sensor for me, i drove it away and it was banging and vibrating on the engine, then i took a look under and the whole exhaust is hanging down, no cat bracket on it, hanging off the turbo housing, can you believe that????? and to make it even worse this was done by a respected mechanic/fabricator on here which pisses me off everyday that i think bout it, $1000 spent and im very very dissapointed. no way im going back to wait what... another 4weeks F#%k off!! be very very careful who is working on the car and make it clear what you want done and what you expect, thats my lesson learnt. seems to be alot of cowboys doing work and charging too much.. make sure you check what they have done and that its not all hanging low with a shit paper gasket on the dump cause as i learnt , thats not the right gasket and a previous mechanic actually gave that to me to put on along with there shit china dump. venting... ok all good now.. There should be a naming and shaming thread on here

Massive facepalm moment today, was driving it for over an hour without major problems, the idle was a bit shaky but was driving and seemed good, then all of a sudden pop pop pop pop goooone......... Dam CAS!!! or bracket , i could of sworn the thing was on properly this time and done right. i am at a loss to what is happening with it. Can someone confirm wether the tomei cam is longer than stock? im thinking it either was in there too close or the keys were not together properly.

i notice its an auto, just a thought but could the auto cause any other these symptoms? like torque converter? ive noticed before that low oil pressure or lack of enough oil in the box can make it to be jerky or even stall at low speed. is the battery old or have loose connectors?

Yeah i think i will get a new one, i put it on and it was not lined up so i put a washer behind one of the bolts and it made it pretty much spot on, put the cover on with a new CAS gasket and it started up first time and sounds good, hopefully it will keep running and the problem has gone. The idle speed/sound kind of hunts a touch, i think it maybe just the cams or a very small vacumn leak. Thanks for all the good advice people

Finally figured out whats going on, the new CAS is spaced too far away and the keys arnt even lining up, must be getting dragged on the tip for it to even start i guess. So can anyone help me figure out how to make sure it is lined up and spaced properly, How much spacing should be used for the bracket and the CAS, and should i put the cover on or better without, this all sounds simple but it seems like a really bad design cause the cover is supposed to help center and space the cas but how much ..

Did they wash the car before you picked it up? they could of got water on the electrics or have they disconnected the battery and not put it back on properly?

im no expert, but with my car it was a bit like that when i bought it, when cold it would actually kind of seize up and crunch in second if the shift was too slow I think its important to not overfill it, i found mine was almost a litre overfull and when i put new oil in, ( just a nulon synthetic) i used some engine oil to thin it down( mobil1 0-40) and played round with it till i got up to about 700ml which got rid of the crunching and notches, alot of people think this is a joke or rediculous but i was told to do that by a gearbox mechanic and so far my box is still going strong. i think its a combination of having the right amount of oil , right viscosity and how bad the synchro's are and how fast your trying to throw the gear in, maybe on a gtr it needs more revs? im not sure.