Greg

i tried this fuel today. so far pretty happy, it revs out a lot smoother. i'm a little concerned about the comments from nissan re vehicles pre 2004. so what are the potential problems in plain english? ie is it more likely to be a fuel line that goes or fuel pump, injectors etc?

what are the differences between your product and the UAS one or are they equivalent? also, if there is enough interest would you be interested in making a guide that goes the whole length of the engine bay? ie covers the tops of the headlights as well. i'll try and dig up a pic if you're not sure what i mean. it may be too much mucking around to make it though. Thanks Greg

thanks Nathan, the seal on the metal cover to the right of the battery was indeed perished. I used windscreen sealant (which never hardens) to replace this, the logic being that if i need to get to my fuel pump in the future it will be simple (but a little messy). at this stage i think it has fixed my fuel smell problem, but time will tell as it was always an intermittent thing. thanks, greg EDIT 1/2/06 - no fuel smell whatsoever since resealing

Thanks to a pm i receive from grigor (see below) i have fixed my fuel spilling problem. Only took a trip to supercheap auto to get some sikaflex and it is like new. Before when i tightened the fuel cap the restrictor moved a little, now it remains solidly in place, and is goes pshhh when i open it. here is a copy of his msg:

bump

i'm after the actual cap that screws in

Must be in Melbourne. Must be 4x114.3 pcd Offset below +38 Please post pics and price if you have any for sale

may be interested. any pics of it on the car?

in melb, please pm

what needs to be upgraded in the rear end? diff?

in melb. please pm if you have one available

I've noticed that when my fuel tank is fairly full (over 3/4) and I go through corners quickly, petrol is spilling out of the flap and down the side of the car. Occasionally I also get a fuel smell in the cabin, which is the strongest in the boot (makes sense). This is not correlated with the level of the tank though. Anyone else have/had similar issues? Cheers Greg

4 stud? If so I would offer you $450 without rubber

wanted

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does the shift knob have the H-pattern on it?

sold

As mentioned THERE ARE 4 BOLTS holding it on. I tried to remove mine having only removed 2 bolts and was wondering why it wouldnt come off!

still wanted

In my experience from obtaining quotes, insurance doesn't really differ THAT much between turbo and non turbo skylines. It's mainly the fact that they are an imported, 2 door sports coupe which are overepresented in crash statistics which determines the premiums. Coming from someone who has an n/a and has done most of these mods, I would suggest the following: Power 1. ensure your pod is receiving cold air flow and is partitioned from engine bay heat 2. get coby extractors & heat wrap them Suspension 1. swaybars front & rear 2. replace castor rod bushes with polyurethane, or get adjustable castor rods which eliminate the bush 3. springs & shocks 4. strut braces front & rear 5. lock hicas For an n/a at least, suspension mods are much more rewarding in my experience as there is more to be gained.

if you import it yourself you should be able to get one for ~20k landed

your rego is wrong unless you have the model with the RB20E?? doubt it would make 170kg difference though. they weigh 1320kg stock. i have had this confirmed on a weighbridge. you can definitely drift a n/a in the wet (or so i'm told...), as for the dry i'm not game to try it on the roads and haven't found time to take it to the track.

What matters in terms of tyre/wheel size is the overall rolling diameter, for example: Stock n/a tyres 205/60/15 Rolling diamter = (205 * 60% * 2) + (15 * 2.55 * 10) = 628.5 mm 225/50/16 Rolling diameter = (225 * 50% * 2) + (16 * 2.55 * 10) = 633 mm 205/55/16 Rolling diameter = (205 * 55% * 2) + (16 * 2.55 * 10) = 633.5 mm 215/45/17 Rolling diameter = (215 * 45% * 2) + (17 * 2.55 * 10) = 627 mm 235/45/17 Rolling diameter = (235 * 45% * 2) + (17 * 2.55 * 10) = 645 mm 235/40/17 Rolling diameter = (235 * 40% * 2) + (17 * 2.55 * 10) = 621.5 mm 255/40/17 Rolling diameter = (255 * 40% * 2) + (17 * 2.55 * 10) = 637.5 mm If the rolling diameter varies from stock, the speedometer will be out. If the rolling diameter is smaller than stock, the gearing ratios are effectively shortened/closer, meaning the speedometer is overstating speed. Ie revving higher at any given actual speed (not indicated). This will mean fuel economy will deteriorate, assuming you drive the same actual speed. If the rolling diameter is larger than stock, the gearing ratios are effectively lengthened/taller, meaning the speedometer is understating speed. Ie revving lower at any given actual speed (not indicated). This will mean fuel economy will improve, assuming you drive the same actual speed. If you just drive at the speed indicated by the speedo, fuel economy will not be affected as a direct result of the gearing change. However the extra unsprung weight associated with bigger wheels in general, independent of the rolling diameter, could deteriorate fuel economy. Nice car btw the body looks to be in mint condition re hicas if you have it the light should show when you initially turn the car on, and flash when it is active (ie the rear wheels lose traction at speed). My car came with red badges and the car was completely stock when imported. i have heard various theories including that the colour of the badge depends upon which factory in Japan they were manufactured.

Thanks for the replies everyone I am going purely off the in seat feel, not corner speed. In some ways the feel is more important to me as my car rarely sees the track. The tyres I'm running are 205/60/15 so there is a distinct possibility that the sidewalls are flexing before the suspension. I'll borrow some lower profile rubber to test this theory. My front springs are definitely progressive. I will check if any of the progressive coils aren't touching each other tomorrow in the light. Thanks for your help

I recently drove my friend's R32 gtst which has coilovers and a roll cage but is otherwise stock. It sits perfectly flat through corners without absolutley no body roll. I want this handling. I'm currently running bilstein shocks with Apexi springs (which are a progressive rate spring). I've also have ARC swaybars and front and rear strut braces. Judging by pushing down on the corners of each car, my suspension is pretty much as stiff as his. My issue is that when I put the car into a corner (on a racetrack of course), I initially get a small amount of body roll before the suspension stiffens up, which I find a bit unsettling. It makes it hard to judge where the car's limit is. Do you think this is caused by: a) lack of roll cage; or b.) progressive rate springs; or c) all of the above; or d) other... please explain. My current theory is that the "soft" coils of the springs are initially being compressed as I enter the corner, allowing the small amount of body roll, before load is placed onto the "harder" coils - will a linear rate springs be much of an improvement? Cheers, Greg