Greg

Engine power RB25DE Power: 142 kw@6400 rpm (147kw for series II or 'Type S' variants) Torque: 231 Nm@4800 rpm This generally translates to 90-100kw @ the wheels. Oil change Engine I use genuine Nissan oil filter - $9.95 from your local dealer Engine oil capacity RB20E, RB25DE: 3.8L (not including filter) RB20E, RB25DE: 4.2L (including filter) Skyline manual recommends changing oil and oil filter every 15,000km - I change both every 7-10,000km. Gearbox I use Castrol VMX80. I'm happy with it. Redline is the best but its expensive. Gearbox capacity: RB20E: 2.0L RB25DE: 2.5L I used Shell oil for a bit - it was absolute shit, synchros crunched etc. Steer clear of shell gearbox oil. Diff I use Castrol EPX80w90. Others have used VMX80 in their diff as well. Diff capacity: RB20E non lsd: 1.0L Active LSD (you have an active LSD light on your dash): 1.6L Normal LSD: 1.3L I change my diff oil every 15,000km because my diff is made to do a lot of work Brake discs R33 GST25/GTS4 Original thickness: 26mm Mininum thickness: 24.2mm Fuel economy Non turbo skylines have relatively efficient fuel economy compared to turbos. I average 10.9L/100km - this includes a lot of thrashing. The factory quoted figure is 9.6L/100km. Fuel tank capacity is 65 litres. What petrol As Japanese cars are tuned for very high quality petrol (high octane) it is advisable to run optimax (Shell), synergy 8000 (Mobil), ultimate (BP). Personally I use synergy 8000 as this is what runs the best. I've used normal premium before and it ran fine, perhaps a bit less responsive though. Spark plugs N/A skyline spark plugs Exhaust Extractors - People have had good results with Coby extractors, order from www.partsco.com. I use these - they give the engine a much fatter midrange, making the car a lot more fun to drive. They suit both RB20 & 25. Some power gains might be had with the RB25 by using larger diameter piping for the extractors than the Coby extractors (65mm) Off the extractors 2.5" is the largest diameter piping you should use for RB25DE. Quieten the exhaust with resonators if its too droney. Air filter Benefits of a pod filter are ambiguous. I run an apexi pod and on hot days I REALLY notice the drop in power associated with the pod sucking hot air. Skyline manual recommends to change air filter every 60,000km. Weight Factory quoted figure for R33 GTS25 is 1320kg. I recently weighed mine with 1/3 tank of fuel and found it to weigh 1309kg (ABS, hicas, airbag). General specifications Had these on my computer for ages, they might be useful to someone. Turning circle: 10.4 m Length: 4640mm Width: 1720mm Height: 1340mm Interior length: 1820mm Interior width: 1415mm Interior height: 1090mm Wheelbase: 2720mm Front track: 1480mm Rear track: 1470mm Ground clearance: 145mm

ok well 78.8awkw is not bad at all when you factor in drivetrain loss associated with 4wd. i attached my dyno sheet - 4th gear. the reason the power is so low is we dynoed in 4th gear, and the conservative bmt dyno (seriously). mods are extractors, cat back exhaust & pod.

4wd or 2wd dyno? what mods have u done?

i paid $469 delivered from sydney to my place in melbourne (retail price). I have been told trade is around $300-350 but don't quote me on that. I'm running stock springs by the way so this helps comfort

The part number is B46 1916 for bilstein rear shocks - order from www.bilstein.com.au - talk to them about any concerns they are very helpful. i drive on shit roads, lots of bumps & potholes and the bilsteins handle them superbly

replacing shocks is easy i just did mine. check the faq/tutorial section for the guide i wrote. im running bilstein shock and they are exactly as your describe "mid sporty and comfortable" you won't be disappointed.

thanks for your input guys. I got bilsteins and i am very happy with them - they feel great!

thanks man....i should have taken some pics but my digicam batteries were flat and i didn't want to wait for them to charge. fronts are probably going to be done before the end of the year, stockies are still in pretty good nick so when they start to deteriorate i'll replace them thanks for your help

we are comparing NON TURBO silvias and skylines! both the silvias i drove are non turbo, i thought that was obvious since we were comparing n/a silvia and n/a skyline. the skyline beats the n/a silvia in every possible way except handling. and whats this about me driving a kitted up n/a to make it look like a gtr? i don't have a single aftermarket panel or badge on my car so

i just used castrol epx80w90. seems to work fine for me

i've driven both the sr and ca silvias and obviously my car. there is only a bit of a differences off the line between the sr and the ca (sr is more torquey, obviously). they both go like shit compared to the n/a skyline though. its no camparision. the silvia is better for drift though, imo, due to the chassis....

This guide is based on the original instructions that craz0 kindly sent me. I used Bilstein shocks and kept standard springs. Tools: Pair of spring compressors Socket set Pipe for extra leverage (see below) Small shifter spanner 14mm ring/open end spanner Trolley jack, stands Steps: 1. Remove seats, parcel shelf 2. Jack up car, put on stands 3. Remove struts 4. Disassemble then reassemble struts around new shocks 5. Refit to car 1. Remove rear seat & parcel shelf The rear seats and parcel shelf have to be removed to allow access to the strut tops. The seat is held in by bolts and clips - click here for a step by step guide on removing the seat. I used a screwdriver as a lever to pop the clips off, which seemed to work well. Now the parcel shelf. There should be some bolts holding the baby seat anchor points - remove those. The plastic cover that hides the rear window wiper motor etc needs to be removed as well. Wriggle it around a bit and pull it towards you to remove it. To remove the shelf itself you need to press the two ends as the plastic quarter interior trims are keyed into the parcel shelf. Just watch those, it took me ages to work it out the first time! And don't be afraid to bend the shelf a little bit, its fairly flexible 2. Jack up car, put on stands I raised the whole back end (ie didn't do one side at a time). I think is probably the easiest way, the car is much more stable. Make sure you put the stands in a structurally sound position, don't want to bend anything. Never work under a jacked up car. 3. Remove strut(s) The strut it held in place by 2 nuts on the pillow mounts (accessed from beneath the parcel shelf), and the eye bolt at the bottom of the suspension strut, underneath the car. People have used various methods for removing the strut. The way I did it worked well: I unscrewed the eye bolt (17mm) first then the two pillow mount nuts (12mm). The eye bolt was tight - I needed to put a pipe on the end of the socket wrench for extra leverage (but then again I'm a bit of a wimp ). The strut should now be supported by the lower lug. I then positioned the jack just below the bottom of the strut, to catch the strut when I knocked it off the lug. With a few small taps the strut was off the lug and sitting on the jack. Now just release the jack and watch your strut glide slowly to the ground (alternatively just catch it - I wasn't sure how much it weighed so thought the jack was a much safer method). 4. Disassemble then reassemble strut around new shocks Now you will need spring compressors (I picked some up from Supercheap for $32) to compress the springs so you can undo the top centre pillow mount nut. Make sure you do it evenly on each side of the spring when you are compressing and uncompressing, don't do it one side at a time - put them both on and do about 8 to 10 turns on one side then the same on the other side then back to first side and so on and so forth. After you compress the springs get a small shifter and a 14mm spanner (ring or open end). The centre shaft that the nut screws down on has two flat sides on it above the nut. Put the shifter on that and the spanner on the nut. Undo it most of the way, then check to see if you can unscrew it with your fingers. If you can't, you need to compress the springs more (or risk serious injury when the nut shoots off at great force). Once you have the nut off, you can now remove the pillow mount (you have to re-use your original pillow mount with the Bilstein shocks). Take careful note of the order and way up everything is as you pull the strut apart. Take the spring off with the spring compressors still on it, now remove the bumper and bump plate (you have to reuse these as well) then remove the shock cover which has the bump stop built into it up the top. If you buy Bilsteins I recommend getting the new shock covers with bump stop built from Nissan (expensive but worth it). I didn't and I had to cut the bump stop off the original, and try and attach it to the universal shock cover I got - its a messy job. Rebuild the strut around your new shock absorber - reverse the above steps. When your new centre nut is screwed on, uncompress the springs. Note that the centre net is self locking and can't be reused. If you get new (lower) springs at the same time, you will most likely not have to compress the spring to get it back on, but if you use your original springs like I did you will have to compress them so you can put your pillow mount back on (just leave them compressed from when you took them off). 5. Refit to car I lubed up the lower lug and eye of the shock with vaseline, I'm sure any type of grease would be fine, that's just what I had handy. This makes it easier for the eye of the shock to slide on, and also hopefully prevents squeaking in the future. I found it easiest to reverse the process used to remove the strut. Put the top pillow mount studs in their holes (this requires a bit of jiggling around) and slide the eye of the strut onto the lower lug. You might need to push down on a control arm or the brake discs or something so it will line up and slide on. Now that its sitting on the lug, do up the pillow mount nuts. When you removed the two pillow mount nuts you would have noticed they weren't particularly tight. This is because the studs are fairly weak - so make sure when you put the nuts back on you don't use too much force. Then do the eye bolt. Make it as tight as you can - use the pipe for extra leverage. You're done! Jack up the car again to take pressure off the stands, remove the stands, release jack and lower car, refit parcel shelf/seat. I'm leaving my seat out for a bit - I'm sick of taking passengers Get a wheel alignment as soon as possible. Hope this helps someone, if I've missed anything just ask! Greg

i'll be there

yeah i am doing intro management actually! it sucks, so boring. have u done the assignment? I'm just starting it now, doing Q4 on quality :Oops: do you go to the morning or afternoon lectures? we should organise to meet.

no i take train to uni, but if we have this meetup then maybe i'll drive for the day I've see ur car parked outside the law building sometimes

I'm doing 1st year commerce. noods i see you car quite often, its very nice yeah meet up would be good

yeah did it myself. i got the tomei kit. its pretty easy to do, just back the car onto ramps and that will give u all the room u need.

I have hicas locked on my car. check out UAS www.nismo.com.au. they sell the tomei hicas lock kit or a new brace which does away with the hicas gear altogether. try a search for more info.

synergy 8000 is best for me, in my experience vortex is shit, but that was bought from a country station so might have just been that.

craz0 thanks heaps for your help! i posted a thread on this topic but no one replied! I'll go ahead with the bilsteins, keeping the standard springs because I need the ride height to clear driveways and bumps etc. thanks again edit: just looked at your photos and was amazed to see your car is the same colour as mine (paint code KN6, yeah?). yours is the only other skyline i have seen in our purplish/dark grey/charcoal colour! I was beginning to think my colour was a custom order or something anyway laters, sorry for the hijack of thread i recommend you get a wheel alignment and wheel balance for starters, could save you a lot of money.

True, but its not the money thats deterring me from the Bilsteins, its bumpy roads! I think the Bilsteins will be a bit too stiff. But I guess there's only one way to find out. Hmm and then there's the decision of Whiteline vs Bilstein, although apparently they are similar :

I have the exact problem you describe, it appeared after a skidpan day. Wheel alignment and wheel balancing cured most of the problem but I still occasionaly get the shuddering. I got my shocks tested at ABS and they said they are borderline acceptable, I say they are f*cked - every little bump gets picked up and the rear feels floaty. So time for bilsteins I think, or i'm considering getting standard shocks again ($170 each)

nice. this will be an interesting project

Hey guys I'm in the market for new shocks but as most of the roads I drive on are poor quality I want something fairly comfortable that will soak up the bumps while still providing good performance on the better quality roads. I'm keeping my standard springs to try and compensate for the bumps but I'm not sure if this will be enough. I'm thinking of bilstein or kyb shocks - does anyone have experience with these shocks on poor quality bichamen(sp) roads? Cheers Greg

bump? anyone else have opinions on KYB?