Greg

what are you doing?

doing batchelor of Commerce. lol sounds a bit like school - you do nothing until exam time!

lol i think i'll be able to handle that

inark: in your sig "The skyline is more than just a car... its a lifestyle" if u still want that lifestyle then stay with skylines and not ***** girls cars...simple

[2] AkEaKe, i think what you're asking is if you have to inform vic roads if u respray the car a different colour? thinking about it logically, yes, you would because when you first register a car i think you have to let them know what colour it is. if this is changed its important for identification purposes to let the "officer" (vic roads) know about it. that said i doubt many people tell vic roads [4] stamp duty is payable at the rate of $8 for every $200 or part thereof (from memory). for my R33 GTS i piad $1025 this included one years rego + stamp duty.

hmm well i went to a "welcome day" at melbourne uni today and i have to say its starting to sink in that i will actually be going to uni in only one month's time. i guess that means no more bludging and less skyline time lol ok, so i'm less of a noob when i start uni, i'd like to hear your perspective on uni - advice, tips and tricks and all the stuff you got up to so i know what uni is all about! oh and i while on the tram i saw a red r33 with sau stickers and a drive right sticker above the exhaust driving down swanston st...who was it? Cheers, Greg

parade, convoy, exhibit ??

thanks for that terry...you had the exact same problems as i'm having now. i'm going to change to vmx80 ASAP

thanks for the replies what is meant by "lubricate body" as offered by perfect run as part of their servicing? see http://www.perfectrun.com.au/service%20dep...edepartment.htm

is that for non turbo r34?

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haha ok thanks danny very happy with alarm, no problems at all the only thing that i could complain about is the external siren is a little quiet compared to some of my mates ones...but its loud enough, just not deafening bastard loud have you had any time to play around with ur headlights so both low and high beam come on together? i can't wait to see your impul kit on the next cruise!

hmm i'm probably wrong! but i just read a thread that mentioned lubing bushes at regular servicing intervals so thought i'd query it...

Hey guys, How often should you lube up bushes, what bushes need lubing regularly, and what type of lube should you use? Cheers Greg

since your picking, MINE_DATSUN: its "write" off a car and "written off" NOT "rid" and "ridden off" lol sorry

lol yeah i reckon! i need to buy a longer socket driver to get better leverage...i struggled for at least half an hour to get the plugs undone! thanks for your help

driver i'm really interested in these, sorry for not getting back to you sooner. this may seem like a strange request but can you please weigh one wheel (with tyre)? just roughly on bathroom scales is fine! thanks Greg

get a wheel alignment. excessive toe on the rear end can cause instability such as you describe. i had a similar problem and spent $$$$ disabling hicas, but it didn't fix it it. all it needed was a wheel alignment, it drove perfectly after that!

i might end up buying cheap oil to flush the gearbox with...i admit it is a bit dodgy using engine flush in the gearbox

hmm the owners manual say to use 75w90...but i get what your saying, an older/worn gearbox needs thicker oil. changing fluid myself. its easy to to do, GenesisR32 posted a great thread DIY thread, its in the FAQ section or i can show ya if you want. thanks denny yeah i put a tube of G70 in...it made a bit of difference but its still really crunchy when cold. i might try this VMX80, everyone seems to speak highly of it. if that doesn't work then its redline time. if that fails then gearbox rebuild time lol thanks mate

I recently changed my gearbox oil (manual) for some synthetic shell oil (75w90). the box is a lot worse to use now. i can't change into 2nd properly when cold (grinding noises) and every gear is a bit 'notchy', sometimes even when warm. now i read in some thread that when changing from mineral oil to synthetic oil in the gearbox, sticky deposits can be formed on the gears which make the gearbox hard to use. i think this is my problem. I was considering putting half a bottle of the engine flush stuff into the gearbox before draining it to see if that helped...is this safe to do? or is there a more conventional method of flushing the gearbox? or am i completely wrong and something is wrong with my clutch (ie not fully disengaging)? thanks Greg

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SAFC = device to tweak air/fuel mixture (ie make the mixture lean or richer). good gains can be had from this. stands for super air fuel controller (or is it converter?)

for the RB25DE the recommended drain interval is 15,000 km :bs!: i change it every 5,000 km, of course. on the bottle is says to change oil in turbo engines every 5000km. the only mods i have done are full exhaust system and pod filter so internally there would be no more stress on the engine than a stock one (i think?!). anyway thanks for all the replies

welcome there is a guy on here, username Nick Thompson who has done a lot of mods to his RB25DE including cams i believe...he hasn't posted for ages but it might be worth sending him a pm (private message) to see what hes running (post back here with what you find please ). he's dynoed it... 137.5kw @ wheels! oh yeah coby extractors...see www.partsco.com and tell them you're from skylines australia. yes i know you have to pay freight from nz to oz but it still works out cheaper than buying them locally. advan imports in sydney sell them for about $430 from memory, should be able to pick them up from partsco for about $350 shipped to your door. add safc to your list