Mark-32

No reasonable offers will be refused, really needing the car gone now. Will even pay for transport costs for interstate buyers....!

Really need the car gone, im now open to offers. No reasonable offer refused.

Price is now fairly negotiable. Really need the car gone, my mate wants his shed back......

Anyone want to make an offer..... I can help get the car transported interstate if needed.

bump

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sa...re-t331322.html

Never thought this day would come but here for sale is my R32 2 door. Very regrettful sale, I have owned this car for nearly 7 years and it was near completely stock when purchased. Once purchased I began to develop the car mainly in the suspension department for drifting duties and went about as far as I could go with the internally stock rb20, equipped with hks2530 netting 230rwkw. In 2008 I competed in a full 5 round state drift series in Tasmania and finished the year in second place overall. Last year I then went about taking the car to the next level. The Rb26dett conversion was carried out along with a few steering mods and as most coversions go things got completely out of hand. After spending over 45,000 dollars last year alone I ended up with a no expense spared weapon. The engine itself when purchased was out of an R32 GTR which had done 85,000kms. The engine was then shipped to duggans balancing in conjunction with Johnsons performance centre in victoria to be de assembled, have all the machine work done and be re-assembled with all the new hardware. The engine was then installed into the car and the car was sent to JPC to be run in and tuned on the dyno. The car made 325rwkw on its first pull at only 13.5 psi on a very safe tune. This car is easily capable of 440+rwkw with more boost. The car has only done approx 600ks since its been tuned and as I work interstate it has sat in the shed collecting dust ever since. The car is still road registered. The engine was built for response with drifting in mind. The internals are overkill and capable of supporting over 1000hp with a big single but this was done to keep it reliable. Engine specs are as follows: ViPec V44 ECU Garret GT2860-5's 800cc Sard Injectors TOMEI 260 Deg Cams TOMEI Oil Restrictor Greddy Adj Cam Gears (set on zero) Nitto I beam Rods JE/Nitto 20th piston kit Nitto oil pump nitto crank collar acl main conrod bearings ARP head stud kit ARP Main studs Gates AC Belt Gates Power Steer Belt Gates timing belt Nitto Metal intake and exhaust Gasket Kit Nitto Drag 1.2 head gasket Jim Berry Full Monty Clutch 4500 pound clamp force Bosch 044 in tank pump 100mm thick trust Intercooler Big Alloy Radiator with thermo High Octane 10L RWD Sump (with baffles and trapdoors) Rear Oil drain R33 5 speed G-box Custom Tailshaft Stainless Split Dump pipes Greddy Y Pipe 3.5in exhaust Tuned by JPC on BP-98 fuel. Suspension: Ohlins Coilovers Adj Castor Rods Adj Upper Arms Adj Whiteline swaybars R33 Lower control arms Offset rack spacers NP Wonder knuckles Solid Alloy steering Spacer Rear Adj Camber arms Solid mounted rear cradle Hicas Lock bar installed and all hicas lines and pumps removed from the car Interior: Hydraulic handbrake Bride fixed back drivers seat 5 point safety harness Fire extinguisher Trust boost gauge Nismo 260k dash cluster Body: Monkey warehouse Uras body Kit 17x 10 Weds wheels 6 gtr rims 2x 17x9 skid rims 4x 18x8 5 spoke rims Iam sure there are things I have forgotten but anyway.... This car would suit a buyer who is looking for something that's had all the work done and is ready to go. $20,000 firm Contact Mark 0428457841

I have a RB20 fuel rail in the shed and Im wanting to have a fitting welded on the other end alond with moving the fpr to the centre and fit it to my rb26. Does anyone have any info on doing this and are the 20 and 26 rails the same?

The plugs are the same plugs it had in it when the car stopped and they still look fine. Think they are 10 or 11 iridiums Injectors are brand new 800's, the quarter tank of 98 fuel in it has been there since the 21st of march to be exact... Could this be my problem do you think? And would it miss even off boost just above idle like its doing? I just tried swapping coils one by one with another one I found- This didnt help. Plus all the coils look good with no cracks or jumping spark in the dark My laptop didnt show anything besides all the vitals stats- and I dont really know what to look for anyway. It shows manifold air pressure and all temps but no errors come up or anything. Plus it idles perfect besides the odd little stutter which gets worse the more contant revs you apply. I spose next step is to put some new fuel in, new spark plugs and try get another ignitor to try. And then chase my tail some more. Anyone have any other suggestions?

Just need some help, I did do a search but it seems the coil pack misfires others people have are at higher rpm. I have just got my car going after having a bent valve replaced due to broken guide. So anyway I put the engine back in the car, everything is the same as when it was running before, besides im having to use stock coil packs and ignitor. (My split fires and ignitor that I was using before were stolen while engine was out) Once everything was hooked up the car started first crank and idles fine, I connected the laptop to the vipec and have put a timing light on it and set it to 20 degrees which is what the vipec displayed as base timing. As soon as i apply revs, say contantly holding it at 2000rpm it develops a miss just like a bliping stutter sort of thing. While its missing i have tried disconnecting coilpack leads one by one and you can hear it drop spark on each cylinder. All sparkplugs are good and im using the same coil harness as before. I took it for a spin up the road and it gets worse through the rev range. All coilpacks look like new and I have had it running at night and cant see any spark jumping around either which makes me think its not the coil packs. While the car is parked If I stab at the throttle and rev it to 3-4000 there is no miss and it sounds fairly clean, its only when i hold contant revs or its under load that is gets the stutter/misfire There are no afm's so can anyone tell me if theres a good way to determine if my problem is the ignitor or the coil packs? I dont have access to any spare coil packs or ignitors and I rang Nissan today and got quoted $876 for new ignitor.

Yeah nothings changed except running standard coil packs as my split fires got stolen. I just set the timing with a $1000 digital snap on timing light at 20 degrees but the car has a bloody ignition miss most likely a dud coil

Thanks man. Because I havnt had the car back on the dyno since geting it going again, would I be right in thinking I should slightly retard it and set it at like 17 or 18 degrees until i get it back on a dyno to check everything?

Ok so I got my car running again after re-fitting the head. Im just trying to set the base timing on the cas. Just have a quick question regarding the marks on the harmonic balancer I plugged my laptop into my vipec ecu and it tells me the base timing should be set at 20 degrees. On my harmonic balancer there are 7 slots. If standing in front of the car looking down on the balancer, reading the slots from left to right - is the first slot 0 degrees? Like this? slots- I I I I I I I degrees- 0 5 10 15 20 25 30

Nice work Damo looks good.

http://jntperformance.com.au/index_i651610...ml?catId=269036

Can I grab your mobile number mate?

After recently having my set of split fires stolen Im just wondering if anyone in the north has an old set of 6 rb coilpacks laying around that I could borrow for a day either sunday or a day early next week? Im just about to get my car going after re-fitting the cylinder head and they are the only thing im missing to fire it up. Im only in the state for a few days and Im not looking to buy any second hand ones as I have a new new set on the way. I only need them so i can make sure the car starts and so I can move the car from its current location rather than having to tow it. If anyone could help me out it would be much appreciated.

Is there any need for me to put a timing light on it to set the base timing on the cas?

Thanks for that mate. As long as startup goes ok and everything seems right i will just take it for a short drive round the block then keeping it under 3 grand or so and check for oil leaks and so on. Then back on the dyno just for peice of mind. Can anyone tell me if there is any sort of error or knock log on the vipec that I can have a look at when i get it going? Just to see if it says anything from around the time it bent the valve? I was there for the tuning of the car and watched them do it but Im not real familiar with the software. And how do i go about lowering the rev limit once i plug it into my laptop? Wouldnt mind dropping it back from 8600 to around 7500ish just for peice of mind as i REALLY dont want to go through this again.

Hi all, Just want to know what people suggest doing when starting my engine for the first time after re-installing the engine. The engine was fully built, run in and tuned on the dyno, and did roughly 1000ks of road driving before breaking a valve guide for no apparent reason and bending the inlet valve on no 4 cylinder. Anyway..... I then removed the engine from the car unbolted the head and sent the head back to the builder who replaced the guide and the bent valve for me under warranty. The builder sent the head back to me all set up with cams fitted and the head has now been torqued back down, and the motor is finally now back in the car ready to go. Im nearly at the stage of starting it again, should i just unplug the coil pack harness and unplug injector harness and crank the motor to regain oil pressure? And obviously bleed the coolant system? Anything else? Do people think it will be right to just start driving it again normaly.... taking it easy obviously, seeings that the tune hasnt changed? Or should I at least plug the vipec into a laptop and look at knock? Or do i really need to get it back on a dyno and check air fuel ratios? Sorry for all the questions just dont want to go through the pain of stuffing it again. Any help is much appreciated.

Hi all, Just after some info on the 4 spot Alcon front brake setup and if this sounds like a good deal compared to geting gtr calipers/ rotors. I have been offered these brakes in good condition for $2200, never heard of alcon before untill now but they are surposed to be a major front brake upgrade for gtr's. I own a 32 gtst, but its fitted with a 26dett and im about to go down the brake upgrade road. I just want to know if this is a better way to go rather than fitting normal gtr brakes and so on. They come with really thick discs, unsure of exact measurements as yet but I do know they will fit behind a 16inch enkei wheel. The owner also said there is one small mod required to do to the hub to make the brakes fit. They were originaly purchased for targa tasmania but he has since sold the car but still has the brakes. This is the only info i have from the owner of brakes but just thought I would see what people think of the setup and price and if its a worthwhile road to take. Any info is much appreciated.

Had some parts stolen from my shed in Launceston. Brand new blue 20 row Greddy oil cooler with braided lines and relocator 6x Splitfire Coilpacks to suit rb Complete TJ Twin Plate Clutch with GTR flywheel I realise its a long shot but if anyone hears anything could you please let me know on 0428457841. Im prepared to offer a reward for any info on the parts. Cheers

Just thought someone may have some feedback on good workshops they use and who does good tuning. I saw insight were the vipec dealers but dont know much about them

Who do people get to tune these ecu's in sydney?

Dont have a standard pump.