Mark-32

Yeah cheers mate. So when you fitted the surge tank you just got another 044 as external?

Thanks dude. Ok so it sounds like this is going to be the best bet for my needs. Can anyone give me an idea of what sort of lift pump I should use and the rough difference in price compared to the 044.? I ask this question because if there is not a major difference in price I will just leave the current intank pump where it is to save the stuffing around of removing it and so on. Thanks for averyones help, Much appreciated. "Dr Drift" that info is exactly what i was after as the setup would be alot cheaper and neater with the single external setup. If your having no dramas with 570+kw im sure mine will be fine also. Also can anyone shed some light as to what size surge tank I should be looking at, and is there any specific sized rubber fuel line and fittings I should be using to plumb the external pump to the surge tank and return etc?

Yeah but Iam aiming for 400rwkw plus. I currently have 320kw but will soon be winding the boost up from 14psi to 20ish. My tuner recommended the two external 044's and said one would do but get a second for peice of mind in case one fails. Also can anyone tell me if the standard fuel lines from the tank to the rail will suffice?

Just got a quick question regarding in-tank pumps and external pumps. Im in the process of fitting a decent fuel system into my gtst. I currently have a single 044 in tank pump but iam going to fit a surge tank and 2x external 044's to feed my RB26. Just wondering if my current 044 in tank pump will be ok to leave there to use as the lift pump for the surge tank? I realise that its probably overkill as a lift pump but it would seem like the simple option to just leave it in there and buy another 2 044's to mount externaly. And surely it would'n be working hard at all as a lift pump? Any advise is much appreciated.

Is the fuel system still for sale mate?

These still for sale man?

Although Im running a rwd rb26, Im very happy I decided to go with the -5's rather than the 7's. I have been in a couple of gtr's that are running built motors with the 7's and in my opinion although they are super responsive they seem to run out of steam in the upper rev range. Using the -5's with poncams and vi-pec on only 14psi my car made 325rwkw easily and pulls as hard at 8 grand as it does at 4 grand with massive amounts of mid-range. Positive boost is cranking by 2 grand and by 3000rpm its fully into it. After having a RB20 in the car previously this feels like no lag at all. I realise that once i wind the boost up it will have slightly more lag, but I can deal with that if I can reach the magical 400rwkw whilst still on 98RON. My 2 cents.

Smashed my balancer and broke my pulley remover. Just after another stock balancer in good nick, or a replacement aftermarket item at a reasonable price. Cheers Mark

Thanks heaps for that man. Thats exactly what I was after!

So how exactly does the plumb back setup solve the problem? Wouldnt the extra air that is escaping through the compressor cover still escape, only instead of escaping all the way back through to the air filters its just get resirculated back into the intake? Im just trying to understand how the plum back would solve the issue of too much air geting forced into the engine at low revs. As surely the same amount of air is geting fed into the engine plum back fitted or not........?

So is this true that it can damage the turbos mate? Can anyone verify this? I might have to fix it by going back to the plumback setup if it is.

Its only running 0.9 bar which is was the actuators are standard. Its been built to run some decent boost though the main specs of the engine are TOMEI 260 Deg Cams Greddy Adj Cam Gears (set on zero) Nitto I beam Rods JE/Nitto 20th piston kit Nitto oil pump nitto crank collar acl main conrod bearings ARP head stud kit ARP Main studs Gates timing belt Nitto Drag 1.2 head gasket Greddy Oil Cooler 10L RWD Sump vi-pec bla bla bla

Well heres the dyno run, not sure if it shows any evidence of the comp surge on the dyno curve as im not 100% sure whats what. Im interested now to see what you think r31nismoid.

Yeah thats right it happens at around 3 grand as its building boost then it sort of clears itself so to speak. I guees i will just put up with it then, as i really cant be farked setting up the plumb back setup again because its so tight on the turbo side of the engine. When just cruising on the highway its near impossible to stop the car doing it unless your sitting in a different part of the rev range, and that would have the car doing about 140-150kph. Its mainly for the cops that I was keen to fix it, because all it would take would be for a cop car to roll past and hear it as its so loud and bingo your pulled over with the bonnet up. Thanks for everyones help, i was just very interested to know what was causing this and if it could be rectified. I also seems that though there is heaps of info in the forums here on the dash 5's on 26 engines, there didn't seem to be any info on comp surge. I would have thought that with the amount of people running these turbos that the problem would have been more common, and that there would have been more info.

At the end off this vid you can hear the noise im talking about. Its not knock, I was just asking the question that if i wind the boost up will the surge get worse? And here is a vid of its first proper run-in pull

When I first heard the noise when ithe car was on the dyno I thought someone was using a rattle gun near by. Didn't even think it was coming from the car as it was so loud and I had never heard anything like it before. When doing the initial running in and tuning on the dyno we couldn't run any more boost than what the actuators would produce standard into the engine. The reason for this was because the single in tank 044 pump was only wired in via the body loom and was starting to struggle at big revs causing the car to run lean. Once we hard wired the fuel pump to the battery it fixed this problem but it still needs 2 external 044's and a surge to be safe. So do people think the compressor surge will get even worse once I wind the boost up? Or would it improve? I dont fully understand how compressor surge works, but im under the impression the turbos dont have enough exhaust flow to produce positve boost pressure at the low revs? If thats the case I would assume that once I run higher boost this problem will get worse as the turbos wont positive boost pressure until later in the rev range?

So in all honesty how bad are the police? My car has not been engineered with the new engine twin turbo combo and will retain the tas rego for as long as possible. It has a uras kit with 17x10's all round so the wheels do hang out the gaurds slightly? Im living in manly vale area.

Thanks very much for your help guys cant wait to get amongst it. I've just finished off my rb26dett engine conversion in my 32 (built and tuned by JPC in melbs) Spent a bloody stupid amout of coin on this engine but havn't had a chance to get it back out on the track with the new setup as yet Just in the process of geting my car shipped over from tas atm so look forward to geting out there very soon. Oh and by the way how are the cops over here with modified cars? Or is that a silly question?

No i mean the whole 1300 dollar greddy pipe kit that goes to compressor in let and outlet. Then down into the gaurd on passenger side. Do you think if i ran the plum back setup it would solve the problem?

Hey all i've just moved to sydney from tas and Im wondering what drift tracks and drag strips are here and how do I get involved etc?

Oh ok, I have removed the plum back setup and im using a greddy suction kit on the turbo side with the plum back holes blocked up so that may be the cause? I have a hks bov that is mounted right after the intercooler down under the gaurd? Do you know how I could stop this without using the stock plum back setup?

Just wondering if its a common issue when using the -5's on a 26 as I have never heard of it before? When im in 4th or 5th gear coming onto boost the car sounds like a steam train and it is really bloody loud. The car is only running one bov on the plenum side of the cooler, and someone told me that this may be the problem??? Its not a major issue but it hapens at about 100-120kph so when im on the highway its pretty constant and its doing it nearly all the time unless your on it. Motor is a built 26 making just over 320rwkw, boost is at what the actuators are standard, and boost gauge says 0.9 bar Any help is much appreciated.

Bump

Just wondering if anyone has torque settings for rb26dett using arp bolts.

afm's sold. Mods please delete this topic