nj1

Link g4 ecu. I will get it back in the shop and they can have a look at idle control valve and clean it out.

Hi All, Apologies for the long post. Ever since having cams installed on my rb20det r32 skyline I have had consistent idle issues. Car was initially built and tuned by Tuner 2 but I went to Tuner 1 as I changed address. TUNER 1: Did all the head work includings cams, camshafts, springs and tuned the car with new setup. Initially the car's idle would hunt on cold start. The idle would bounce from basically stalling to 1300 rpm and stall. It would take 4 to 5 attempts to start the car. After advice from this forum I took it to my usual Tuner (Tuner 2) to check the tune. TUNER 2: Reviewed the tune (done by Tuner 1) and said it was rubbish (car was essentially block tuned) and dyno tuned the car and fixed cold start and found more mid range power. On cold start the car still hunts between 700 to 1200 rpm for about 15 seconds then settles down to approx 900 rpm. I can live with this as atleast the car starts now. This all well and good except now when I drive and come to a complete stop with the clutch in the car idle hunts again and 90% of the time stalls. So far 2 seperate tuners are having trouble getting the car to idle. I am not sure what is causing the problem specifically. Any advice on what I should be telling the tuner or questions I should be asking to get the problem fixed? For my info what causes the idle to hunt? Is the ecu controlling/cutting fuel on/off? Any advice would be much appreciated.

Just wanting to know peoples thoughts/experiences on cold start with RB20 runnings cams. I am finding it takes 3-4 attempts to start the car, it idles out and usually on the 4th go it's good. The cold start idle is quite rough/fluctuates and varies between just about stalling to about 1500rpm while warming up. Also warming up takes about 5-10 mins and driving it before warming up is not really possible due to the fluctuating idle. Is this normal or does the tune need some adjustment?

R32 gtst with 18x10+12 and with 18x12 but with overfenders

It was plated in dec 2012 when 6 point cages were allowed in Qld. The rule changed in April 2013 allowing only 4 point. So it was modplated as a 6 point before the rule changed. The engineer who just modplated my car to a 2 seater said that it was probably plated as a 6 point and removing the front hoop would make it non compliant against the original modplate. The question remains over legalities when the original rules change..

I have an R32 gtst that had a modplate in 2012 with a 6 point bolt in roll cage. The car was out of rego for a year but now I have put it back on the street, is the 6 point cage mod plate still applicable noting now only 4 point cages are allowed? If I take the front hoop out then it's not complying with the modplate from 5+ years ago? Car has only ever been registered and mod plated in Qld.

Genuine Sparco seat. Ordered from Italy. Seat rails to suit r32/33/34. As new condition. Used once for a track day. $900 for seat and rails. Genuine Takata Drift III Harness with all mounting hardware. $200 for the harness.

Hi, does anyone in the Brisbane area have a set of wheels/tyres I can borrow to get a rwc? Happy to pay a bit. Thanks

Hi, i have read a few threads regarding mod plates for reduced seating capacity, namely just two front seats. Can you still get a modplate to have just the drivers seat? No passenger or rear seats. Car is a r32 gtst. Thanks

R32 Skyline Track Car E85. Dynoed at 380 rwhp. Built and tuned by reputable skyline tuner in Brisbane. All receipts and modifications/parts list available. RB20det. Top end rebuilt with steel head gasket, new valves, new springs and cams. Upgraded turbo (Hypergear ATR43SS) All fluids replaced less than 100 km. New brakes (slotted rotors/ebc yellowstuff pads) Sparco Racing Seat Takata Harness Full cage. Flex fuel sensor. Tuned to run E85. Interior stripped. Unrequired parts such as A/C removed. 50% worn slick tyres. 18" rota rims in good condition. 10" wide fronts and 12" wide rears. Body is in good condition, car has never been in an accident. Genuine low kms. Gearbox/diff is in great condition. Car is ready to race. All modifications have been done with reliability and performance in mind. Full list of modifications available on enquiry. **2T Tilt trailer also available for sale for $3000. Trailer has winch and is approximately 2 years old and has just been serviced. Contact 0400 766 234 for more information.

Located in Brisbane

R32 Skyline Track/Race Car R32 GTST Track Car for Sale. RB20Det purpose track build 380rwhp @ 23psi on E85. Engine/Car has 87XXX kms on it. Car owes well in excess of $40k. Looking for $24000 or best offer. Engine Engine Top End just refurbished/rebuilt, new valves, springs, Tomei cams, camshafts, steel head gasket and ARP Head studs. Stock bottom end and internals. Prior to rebuild I had an engine oil sample tested (no elevated wear metals or contaminants detected). Hypergear ATR43SS Turbo, Denso pencil coils, 1000cc injectors, high flow E85 fuel pump, fuel labs pressure regulator, High Flow CAT & BPP Fuel Rail. PWR Intercooler Painted Black. Exposed POD filter where headlight should be. Also provision to put the headlight back in and drop the pod into the inner guard pulling cool air through fog light area. Cooling. KOYA Radiator with twin push/pull thermo fans. Driveline. Standard RB20det gearbox with Competition Clutch Heavy Duty race clutch (4000 km old). Competition Clutch light weight flywheel (4000km old). Transmission fluid is Redline Shockproof. Suspension, Wheels & Braking. Fully adjustable coil overs, damping and ride height adjustable. Fully adjustable camber and castor arms. BF Racing Brake Fluid (High Temp, never had the pedal go to the floor). Front has Slotted and Cross Drilled Rotors with EBC Yellow Stuff Pads. 250 kms old. Rear has Slotted Rotors with Forza racing pads. 100 kms old. Wheels are Rota P45R. Not dent or buckling in the rim. No gutter rash, just paint chips on the outer lip on the rims. Fronts are 10” wide, rears are 12” wide. Currently have Kumho Ecsta Hard Racing Slicks with about 50% life remaining on the rears and 70% on the fronts. Engine Management. Link G4 ECU, with unlocked tune. There is a flex fuel sensor so you can tune on P98 without problems. Currently only has an E85 tune on it. There is provision for 3 standalone tunes. Interior. Interior carpet and sets have been stripped. Full Roll Cage, after market momo steering wheel, Genuine Sparco Seat (from Italy) and Genuine Takata Drift Harness. Drift handbrake. Chassis & Body. Car has never been in an accident on the race track. Car has been stiffened with four braces. Body is as expected for a 25 yr. old car (no dents). Rear qtr. of car has a wide body kit on it from Japan. General Info. Car has had a full service which included ALL filters and ALL Fluids 7 Months ago. Car has done one track day since then to verify the new tune with updated head, Car has been tuned by reputable skyline tuner in Brisbane. Car has absolutely no issues, it will do full track days without any problems, no overheating, the car is very reliable.

Seems like just unburnt fuel in the cylinder from cranking over a few times unsuccessfully. No smoke or anything just a very loud pop from out the exhaust...didn't sound like it emanated from the engine bay

I just tried to start my car after almost 4 months, battery voltage was low and fuel pump primed but wouldn't crank over but heard a loud pop like a gunshot and then battery completely died. I tried to get it to crank over several times. I Replaced the battery and it started up fine. Should i be concerned about the loud pop noise? I can't drive the car due to it being a unregistered track car to see if there is an issue but as i mentioned it seems to idle fine.

What is the best course of action to prevent it overheating? Radiator has been upgraded to a koyorad 6 months ago. My goal is to be able to do 20 mins of solid driving on the track without overheating. Note the car is a dedicated track car RB20det with 380rwhp. Has all the modifications to suit.

It overflowed on the straight because the ecu cut cylinders/dropped the max allowable revs. Assuming it overflowed when that happened. Doesn't really smell like coolant but it's hard to tell with the smell of the E85

Reservoir is fine, cap is also fine. I let the car warm up and the exhaust is whitish, which indicates head gasket on the way out? Car does run on E85 Oil colour is fine, not milky or anything

Hi all, During a track day I have noticed coolant under the reservoir (it pools and runs down near the battery tray and onto the ground). Is there some kind of relief under there when the coolant gets hot? The cold coolant level is between the min/max, obviously when the coolant gets hot the level rises. In this case it's sits just above the max level. I have previously not kept track of the coolant levels, is the leak and the location of the leak something of major concern? **Noting that the car isn't overheating at the moment Thanks

Hi all, I want to increase negative camber and have KKR camber arms installed on my R32. Before I give this a crack, how to you adjust these to give more negative camber?

New rubber

I'll give the castor rods a go and get an alignment done. Just looked on the hard race website, which of the below is best?

+20 offset on the fronts, Taking a closer look the wheel alignment is way out

When you say may not fix the problem, I am assuming even with xx degrees of castor I will never get full lock without rubbing?

I think the maths might have been slightly off... 235/35r18 should have a diameter of 622 mm 245/645/R18 has a diameter of 643 mm I now have a 10.5 mm radius difference, hence the rubbing So now with adjustable castor rods, any specific brand I should be looking at or go cheap on a pair?

Achilles 235/45r18 but they also rubbed and wore down the inside of the side skirts