nj1

Not too sure, it's been like that since I got the car, I thought it was unusual. In terms of suspension the only thing aftermarket is coilovers and adjustable camber arms as I am aware....but I maybe wrong What should I be looking for?

I have just put on some slick tyres on the front of my skyline, the tyres are kumho s700 245/645/R18. On qtr lock the tyres grab the skirts, and rip them out Based on the pics, the coilovers need to be raised, before I go about doing this, do you think it's going to fix the rubbing or am I wasting my time? Looks like a fairly significant ride height change is necessary. Or is there something else I can do? Thanks

I did the opposite and filled it right up with e85, 0.70 tank e85 & 0.3 tank 98, plugged the lappy into the ecu and got 54% ethanol. It has still has the miss, I guessing the 54% is too far away from the 85% it's been tuned to on ethanol and tune isn't adjusting correctly?

I don't have a display/read out of ethanol %

Yeah tune was fine, but as soon I got it put on e85 6 months ago this is been the first time I have used 98 Do you think I need to get the 98 tune checked?

Hi all, My car normally runs united e85, but fuel was low in the car and I put in 98, but the car appears to misfire/cut at 5000rpm in second gear with medium throttle. The car is R32 RB20det, has eflex sensor and it is tuned to run on both e85 & 98. The car had not been driven for 3 weeks either. Any ideas on what the issue could be?

Added some better quality photos....

So I bought this with about (81000 kms) for $9.5k. I have broken up the build in terms of different stages spanning about 6 months since I brought the car These are the specs: Stage 1 (135 rwkW & 340 Nm Torque & 10 PSI) · Engine: Internally Stock · ECU: Mines Stage 2 ECU running at 0.9 Bar · Drift Handbrake · Momo Steering Wheel · Defi Boost Gauge · Full Roll Cage · Wide body kit with GTR front bar and lip · Wheel: Wolf Racing SP1 Wheels · Coilovers · Front and Rear Brace · Interior Brace · Blitz Pod Filter Stage 1 (135 rwkW & 340 Nm Torque & 10 PSI) Driveability The car was running very rich and massive camber on the fronts which made basically made it not driveable in the wet Stage 2 (230 rwkW & 503 Nm Torque & 18 PSI ) · ECU: Link G4 · Injector Dynamics ID100 · Billet Performance Products (BPP) Fuel Rail · Fuel Labs Fuel Pressure Regulator · E85 Walbro Fuel Pump · PWR Intercooler · Pod Filter Relocated into wheel arch facing front bumper vent Thought this would be enough to get 190 rwkW with the stock turbo, straight onto the dyno tune and the Clutch slipped when boost was increased to 13 PSI, and took the opportunity to upgrade the turbo · Clutch: Competition Clutch Stage 2. · Competition Clutch RB20 Lightened Flywheel. · Hypergear ATRSS1 Turbo · 3 Inch Dump pipe · High Flow CAT · CAI: Dropped the Blitz Pod Filter Down into the wheel guard but facing forward Stage 2 (230 rwkW & 503 Nm Torque & 18 PSI ) Driveability: Full boost hits at approximately 4500-5000 rpm and throws you into the back of the seat. The clutch itself is very light under foot compared to my R34 with Exedy heavy duty clutch. My preference of the two is the competition clutch but the only question is as to whether the Competition Clutch will last as long the Exedy clutch. Major problem was when I did a track day and the radiator depressurised coolant everywhere, equally concerning was the brakes would fade after about 15 mins (30 km) on track. Clutch fan had about 10 cracks, so it was about to shatter I suspect. Stage 2 (280 rwkW & 700 Nm Torque & 22 PSI) · EFlex Sensor to allow switching between different ethanol concentrations and 98RON. · 62 Inch Carbon Fibre Drift Wing · Rota P42r2 (Matt Black), 18x9.5 (Front) and 19x 12 (On the rears, thankyou wide body kit!), Achilles Tyres all round · Front Camber Arms · Twin Thermo Fans · DBA Slotted and Cross Drilled Rotors with EBC Red stuff, Motul RBF600 Fluid · Reconditioned Brake Master Cylinder · Denso Pencil Coils Stage 2 (280 rwkW) Driveability: The Pad/Disc setup took almost 500 km to get rid of the squeal and the noise is still there initially when it’s cold. Initial issue was the car wanting to spin when the brakes were applied, reconditioned the brake master cylinder and all was good, seems like the brakes were biased to the rear resulting in twitchiness under brakes. With the E85 it feels like the power comes on much quicker but most really just more power at the same rpm. The car still gets wheel spin in 3rd and 4th when boost comes on The gearbox still feels tight with the power, no noises or anything so hopefully it holds out for a while yet! Overall generally the car is very much street able and comfortable to drive which was surprising. Future Plans Currently the plan is just to enjoy the car and work on setting up the suspension and rear wing to maximise track performance.

Problem solved, put in denso pencil coils and the car is perfect again, was able to modify the tune to get some better mid range response

It's pretty good on the street but as mentioned boost doesn't come on until 4500 rpm but when it does it is quite violent....

I have a hypergear ATR43SS1 in my RB20det putting down 280rwkw @ 22psi & 700 Nm. Boost comes on 4500rpm

Thanks, makes sense

So the car went on the dyno this morning and the issue was identified as the engine misfiring, new coilpacks ordered. How does the misfiring relate to the over boosting issue?

On the track I want to be able to go 100% throttle in 3rd and 4th on a straight and shift close to 6700 rpm/7000 rpm as I can without having to worry about overboosting/boost So if the car has been tuned with a boost controller and now I have by-passed it completely that will obviously affect the power/torque curve that I had with it yes? Either way it will go back to the tuner to get sorted

Double checked there was no vacuum leak by running a new line, same problem Then I bypassed the boost controlled, vacuum line straight to the actuator and seems a lot better, doesn't over boost. I am guessing the solenoid is malfunctioning not allowing the waste gate to open? If I bypass the boost controller/solenoid I need to get the car tuned again I am guessing. To run higher boost it will have to go through the controller right

It's got a high flow cat on it, need the car legal. The hoses going to the actuator are all fine, all tight and no splits. Other causes/reasons causing the wastegate not to open? As mentioned the turbo was running great before the E85 conversion. I am at a loss why it has been on the dyno twice and performed fine but as soon as it hits the road different story

Hi All, So I have recently got my car tuned for ethanol and have been having some problems Car: 1992 R32 Gtst Turbo: Hypergear ATRSS1 ECU: Link G4 Power 380 rwhp @ 22 psi , 700 Nm The car seems to hit close to 28 Psi by 5000 rpm and then the engine cuts ( programmed to cut if the boost is too high) Initially one of the lines that goes to the actuator popped off. the car was checked over by the tuner and put on the dyno and given a clean bill of health. If I use 70% throttle I can rev it 7100 rpm and all is fine, however 100% throttle in 3rd results in misfire/spitting noise at 6000 rpm which I can push through by reducing throttle, but once in fourth it hits 28psi and the engine cuts. Also when it cuts the cat over temp light flashes up. All hoses are secured and zip tied, solenoids were check, wastegate checked etc. by the tuner the first time. Prior to ethanol, it was putting out 315 rwhp on 98RON with no problems Is it a problem with the turbo or ECU tuning problem? Any help is appreciated!

And looking to buy in the Brisbane area

Hi guys, Just after some stock R34 rims + tires if anyone has them for sale. Also if anyone has any other decent used rim/tyres for sale...let me know Thanks!

I have got the following modifications on my car and was wondering what the best turbo would be to upgrade to from the stock one 1. Competition Clutch lightweight flywheel 2. Competition Clutch stage 2 3. 1000cc ID Injectors 4. Walbro E85 fuel pump 5. Fuel pressure regulator 6. PWR Intercooler 7. Link G4 ecu 8. High Flow CAT 9. Pod Filter Also what sort of power should I expect? I was told possibly a Garrett GT3071 with a dump pipe would be good turbo choice Also where would be the best place to purchase the turbo from? Thanks for the help!

I have been trying to install a PWR Intercooler on the skyline, the guy I brought it off said it was custom cooler set up....I think it was custom to another car not a skyline. Anyway my first mock set up to see how it would look Then I built a custom bracket that would mount to the existing centre bracket....I wanter the cooler to be perpendicular to the oncoming airflow rather than at an angle. The setup fits in behind the reinforcement bar at the front Then I attached the bracket and put the bumper back on and that's where the problems start My only option is to completely hack the front bumper bar ? It looks like the piping will come out and into the vents in the bumper bar. This whole set up is obviously going to attract a lot of unwanted attention....I am not even sure if it will look good either do I keep going or scrap the whole idea and go way smaller cooler and angle it to the front bumper bar? Thanks for the advice

bump, need this car gone asap