hisoka

look on the carpet near the pedals you should see a small plastic peice broken into peices. this is pretty common, you just replace it with the green jeallybean part from nissan costs like less then 4 bucks i think. and takes one minute to install. for now just unplug the harness so the lights dont stay on

i leave mine floating but ziptied to the rest of the loom back there. i know plenty of people who have it like this, hasnt cause any trouble yet

thats pretty normal isnt it, about 4 out of 5 cars ive worked on have trust gateys sitting about that low. usually s15s but. check out jap web blogs, most of there ones sit that low too. is that your car in your avatar? looks insane

you wouldnt know if the alternator works on a rb20 do you ?

before handing your money over, i hope everyone knows this is the same company making the fake bride seats that are going around, the fake takata harnesses, the fake sard regulators and many other fake seats. why support a bunch of theives, selling replica items for almost the same price.

do you have a turbo timer. ? you say this was happening even when the ecu was removed ?

you can just remove factor blow off valve and cap it off with something. and block off the hose going to blow off valve. this should be plenty of dose for you, if you want more then get a metal pipe intake arm

my rb in my silvia does same thing without a cat or resonator. i think its normal any turbo car without a cat will blow flames, the cat usually has a spark arrestor in it, or somewere in your exhaust. a s15 i recently watched get its cat removed and car retuned for a new exhaust and up boost, started shooting flames after. if you really dont want flames your tuner can easily fix that.

get the whole gtr front end from a import wrecker drill out your radiator support and weld new one on, then everything will be bolt on.

cars are tonned down a bit . gps is more accurate. anyway speedo on r32s are cable driven so you manually have to calibrate it , either by holding the needle or fiddling with the cable strength. hope that helps

get a multi meter and do a ohms check on your coil packs. one of them may read low. also does your car chew coolant ?

hey guys. for future reference to anyone who thinks they have a coilpack gone and have not been able to swap with other cyclinder. the easiest way, is to get a multimeter and do a ohms test on positive and negative. the reading will be open line.(no resistance) i can confirm this works, as today i found out that my coilpack has no resistance. this is the damaged coil pack. my working one has a resistance. thank you guys for help. and now heres another way you guys can tell people to check packs, it takes 10 seconds. cheers

what was end out come ? rebuild ?

i would try the following. reset ecu. might be running the car rich with old settings. borrow mates MAF sensor first of all. see if its your maf. check your spark plugs might be goneskies. drop boost back to stock and see if it still happens (although not sure what this one will prove) stock ecu has a o2 sensor diagnostic doesnt it, did you try that. or if anything your car is just running bit rich with those mods

lol thanks man. why didnt i think of this. will do this

thanks for the help guys to list iam going to do a compression check first before anything and then a coil pack swap with the other cyclinder. and use the new ngk plugs i got. i checked the wiring today, and iam about to do a ohms test on my 5 cyclinder coilpack so i will post results, if this is even possible lol. Blind_elk: thanks for that info, i will check compression asap and coil swap. atm i just wanna kill myself, i broke the peice of shit connector ontop of coil 4 lol. so i gotta get one of those and solder it on paul r33 if your who i think you are, thanks for all the topics you had. i read alot of your posts, never thought id ever talk to you lol. iam usually on nico forum, and they refer to most of your posts from that website you had. they love RB's i have done stock ecu diagnostics, returning a code 55. so yeah no help there from stock ecu. if it was wired wrong it would return what error but ? ignition ? thanks guys. edit. how bad is it ive been driving the car for a while, about 4 days? ...and kinda drifting everynight for 4 nights since ive finished the swap didnt even really notice because i daily a wrx with a exhaust LOL. my hearing is already quite impaired from this lol

i did this already to work out that cyclinder 5 is the one with the problem, as i removed plug and the sound did not change. but is this for sure mean the coilpack is damaged ? couldnt it be fuel injector

hey SAU'ers, nissan noob here. i have just engine swapped a rb20 into my silvia. and i have a slight problem the cyclinder 5 is not working. now my question to you guys is what is a good way to check wether my coild pack needs replacing or the injector. i have yet to swap around coilpacks, i have just got new spark plugs but the old ones seem to be good (blitz brand and good colour) except for cyclinder 5 which is black. from this observation am i alright to assume that there is fuel getting in but no spark occuring. the car is pulled apart at the moment and i thought id post on here before jumping into it. there is another thread just like this one and i got some good info from it, but just wondering if my assumption on the spark not firing is correct judging that the plug itself has tuirned black thanks for any replies

hey SAU'ers, nissan noob here. i have just engine swapped a rb20 into my silvia. and i have a slight problem the cyclinder 5 is not working. now my question to you guys is what is a good way to check wether my coild pack needs replacing or the injector. i have yet to swap around coilpacks, i have just got new spark plugs but the old ones seem to be good (blitz brand and good colour) except for cyclinder 5 which is black. from this observation am i alright to assume that there is fuel getting in but no spark occuring. the car is pulled apart at the moment and i thought id post on here before jumping into it. there is another thread just like this one and i got some good info from it, but just wondering if my assumption on the spark not firing is correct judging that the plug itself has tuirned black thanks for any replies

if anyone cares, the signal must be grounded to the ecu , not to the battery. problem solved

sorry couldnt send pm, but what was the soloution to this, as iam doing similar thing. atm i have got this made in japan kinda recitifier thing ontop of the cable driven speed sensor, it outputs a signal i beleive. and doing a ohms test there is resistance. but it seems neither my speedo or rev speed meter can pick up any signal from it, and i have cycled through 2p-160p of signal picking, and still nothing.?? any help ? what other electric speed sensor fits in there ?