nuffsaid

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Price drop!

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Price drop to $70!

+1

Thanks buddy Are you referring to the 3D sound type speakers? coz i know some other R34s have different speakers Looking underneath in the boot, I cant see any screws or bolts for the cover, I can see it for the speaker which looks like it comes frmo inside the cabin into the boot.

Hi all One of my 5" 2 way speakers for the back has a ticking or constant buzz buzz buzz .. sound. It started off being a once in a while thing, then progressively got worse, now it just ticks all the damn time, and its just one of the speakers. I removed the connection from the amp to that problematic speaker and the buzz is gone so its either: 1) the speaker is gone! 2) that particular channel of the amp is stuffed Amp is an Alpine V12 4 channel. I should have tested that channel on another speaker, or powered that speaker on another amp, but forgot. Can amps have one faulty channel? or is it safe to say the speaker has crapped itself? Thanks very much!

Dayam thats alot of effort! isnt there an easier way? Thanks Chris R. My rear left speaker has developed some sort of buzzing, its weird, sounds as if there is something on the speaker that just keeps vibrating, any ideas?

Hi Does anyone know how to remove the rear R34 speaker covers? Ive got that 3D sound cover that kinda looks like a trapezium shape. Ive tried popping it off and no luck and I have been using alot of force. Looks like something tough is holding it down Thanks

Is the noise from behind the main dash, or behind the triple gauge cluster?

Dude thats not actually that bad. You'll find most R34's will get about 120km per 1/4 line on the gauge, and if you are doing that you are doing well. So 3/4 you'd maybe expect 360 which is very good, and if you are getting 320, I'm pretty certain thats fine. At your rate you are probably getting 12.5/13L per 100km.

Hi all Looking for quality 18" tyres in 235/40/18 or even 245/40/18 A set of 2 would be fine, or a set of 4. Looking for tyres that will be on par with the likes of Bridgestone RE001 Adrenalins, RE050's, Toyo T1R, Falken FK452, Dunlop Sport Maxx, Goodyear Eagle F1s... Located in Sydney Thanks

Club lock? alarm? immobiliser? Many of us probably go there and would like to know if these thieves got around all that security

Hahah woops thanks dude! Someone come out and show me the ropes! haha

Hi is anyone going? I would like to but seeing as its my first I wonder if any guys here are going

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Supercheap can get them, got mine from there, dayaam they are dusty!

I would say the G4 coilovers would be too hard for the street Do you need ROSE JOINTED ADJUSTABLE CASTOR RODS and D-PROJECT TENSION CASTOR RODS or are you choosing between the two? Also you are missing one of the most important items, sway bars! I would save the money and do coilovers, sway bars, caster and camber kits. And maybe the lock bar, the others arent really needed. Perhaps a safe choice would be SydneyKids group buy.

Did some quick testing last nite. In 3rd gear, it gets to 0.5 bar (about 7.5psi) pretty okay before 3000rpm but it wont clime higher to like 0.65 bar until after 3000rpm so yeah seems laggy. It should be hitting 0.65 bar before 3000rpm I think. I also turned the unit off, HKS manual says that turning the unit off is like running the base default boost pressure. It hit 0.5bar again before 3000rpm and pretty much stayed there all the way to redline. Problem is with the stock solenoid etc hooked up before the EVC install, I was getting more like 0.75 bar So why is the controller so laggy? is it something wrong with the car or the settings?

Hi Michael, boost drop and warning is set at 100kpa so yeah Im nowhere near hitting that yet. I will take the offset/gain back a little bit to prevent the spiking on the low boost setting on a cold night and see if that controls the spike. Yeah the tuner did the initial setup with a target boost of 65kpa and correction of 100% default. 75kpa for high setting and 100% default. What are your correction settings?

Thats what I thought! if only it was clear what the hell was wrong =(

I'd like to try but I would have no idea what I am doing! haha Wouldnt Nissan setup the gate to leak a little that way the power doesnt come on in a huge rush? ie. have a little boost creep? And am I right in saying that the EBC should hold the wastegate shut and get around this stock setup and eliminate boost creep?

Thanks Paul! its beginning to make some sense now. This is my old dyno (pre boost controller a year ago) http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/6576/r34dynokn2.jpg It seems to do fairly okay without the boost controller, full boost at 130km.hr by the looks of things So is my wastegate stuffed just by looking at this older dyno run?

Spoke to tuner, he said that the nature of the HKS boost controllers is that they hold the wastegate closed until the target boost is reached and then the boost controller starts controlling the boost. In other words, the car while boosting up is relying on the car's natural boosting ability and hence this is why is it slow. The new HKS EVC can make the boost faster by adjusting the gain/offset at a particular RPM, so I might try that. Ill increase the gain at 2000rpm and see what it does there. There are 5 RPM points that can be set, what would be best if my redline is 6800RPM? Tuner has set the 5 points at 3000,4000,5000,6000,7500, but should I set it to 2000,3000,4000,5000,6000 rpm? Also the spikes in cold weather and low gears are probably due to the load on the engine. I was informed to set the gain to 95% and see whether this minimises the spikes. Ill give this a go too. Explanation of dyno graph from tuner below: