nuffsaid

Hi all Only the ones listed below are left $10 ones 1 x white Mines (about 23x10cm) 1 x black Mines (about 23x10cm) 1 x TEIN green "T" white "EIN" logo (about 21x4.5cm) 1 x black running writing Nismo (13x4.5cm) 1 x chrome running writing Nismo (13x4.5cm) The $5 ones 1 x black Trust logo (15x2cm) 2 x GTR emblems with chrome GT and chrome outline (8x6cm) 1 x black HKS logo (12x5cm) Postage on all items will be $1 Australia wide. PM

Hi all 2 --> 26 x 6cm Bilstein writing in chrome - two of them $10 each 4 --> 7 x 3.5cm Bilstein logo (in silver) $10 each 2 --> 22 x 5cm Bilstein Nurburgring - two of them - $10 each Note: blue in pictures is a lil darker than they really are, camera didnt get the colour right Postage on all items will be $1 Australia wide. PM or call on 0414510693

Hi all Have the following magazines available, all in great condition. $40 each delivered HyperREV - pretty much brand new condition - read them once Skyline special issue 37 (covered in plastic) - R32 GTST-T, R33 GTS-T, R34 GTT Skyline special issue 60 (covered in plastic) - R33 GTS-T, R34 GTT Skyline special issue 89 (wrapped in plastic) - R34 GTT, V35 These aren't easy to find and each magazine has heaps of info about * Shop and Manufacturer Demo Vehicles * Engine & Suspension Refresh Tuning * Circuit Spec Machine Reflections * Bodykit and Dress Up Parts Guide * Gauge, Meter, Interior Accessories Guide * Engine Tuning Parts Guide * Drivetrain Parts Guide * Suspension and Safety Parts Guide * Wheel Fitment Guide HPI- 6, 16, 28, 55, 56, 60 SPEED - 1, 8, 10, 17 Autosalon - 32, 41, 47, 49, 50 Topgear UK (UK delivered versions not the aussie ones) 2007 - May 2008 - July, September, October, November, December Awards 2009 - January, February, April Nismo S15 Catalogue Nismo Wear and Accessories Catalogue 1 Nismo Wear and Accessories Catalogue 2 PM

Bump

Bump - cmon most of you all have Bilsteins in your car! haha

Both sold

Hi all Have the following for sale. All from my R34 GTT when it was stock. Removed off the car at 45,000kms. OEM dump pipe - $20 Exhaust mid section - $30 Compliance cat - $30 Located in Fairfield, Sydney

Anyone have feedback on these specifically for a R34 GTT? or know of any threads I can look at?

Look like Nissan Bilstein factory option for a R34 GTR (which fits a GTT, but with weird heights for the front I think)

R34 GTT Side Mount Intercooler SMIC $100 Located in Sydney Fantastic condition

Hi guys I have an Alpine touch screen unit with a 4 channel amp for my speakers and a monoblock for the sub. Lately when I hit a large bump, sometimes even a small bump, I find that no sound comes out from anywhere (speakers or sub), however the head unit is still on and functioning okay. Probably pretty hard to diagnose online but where can I start looking and what possibilities are there? Thanks

Hi Yeap still for sale, not sure on postage but its quite large so I assuming around the $50 mark

UPDATE!! I removed the radiator and got it professionally cleaned locally for $60. They said the whole middle of the core was blocked as if I had poured in some anti-leak substance. Anyways all cleaned so I put the radiator back in. Drove to city (about 50 minute drive) in and out of traffic and oil temps did not go higher than 90-95 degrees. Water temp - no idea, just sat on halfway. What is a normal oil temp to be running?

Thanks Denis, so if one is at the top close to the strut bar on the manifold, where is the other one? So bleed initially from the screws, then remove the radiator cap and jam the head of the bottle in. This bottle will start bubbling and letting air out through the top of the radiator, keep it there until the bubbling stops?

So let me get this right, once the radiator has been cleaned properly, put it back in. - top up the radiator as much as you can, also top up the overflow bottle up to the relevant marking - remove radiator cap - put the head of the bottle into the radiator and fill up to about half way - open bleed screw (there is only one right? near the top of the engine bay) - run engine for XX minutes - keep running until no more bubbles come out of the bleed screw - top up bottle if required - close up bleed valve - turn off engine - put radiator cap back in Assuming the engine is cold, how long approximately should I be running the car for? until only coolant comes out of the bleed screw? And I assume that you keep topping up the coolant as you go to about the halfway mark on the bottle in case the systems takes in more coolant And is there only one bleed screw?

Can you post a link to this method? or do you have more detail about what you need to do?

Thanks mate And when you say all temps are normal now, what is that for oil and water?

Motul 8100 5w40 Changed 2 weeks ago

I dont know what my water temps are as i dont have a gauge for it I think Denis was talking water temps

Both. Oil temps rising to 110 and a tiny bit over, followed by water temp going past the half way point I assume that there is just a cooling issue altogether causing the rise in both

So is it fair to say it is looking more like a blocked radiator than anything else? And is there any downside to fitting a larger radiator (other than cost) i.e. longer warm up times, car running rich as it thinks its cooler etc etc (i am just brainstorming here and am probably wrong anyways) Thanks dudes

do you really need a brand new larger radiator? or would a professional clean to clear out the internal clogging be sufficient?

Hmmm car is about 11 years old now, I would not be surprised if the radiator is blocked. Any chance it could be the thermostat? doubt it as I would see overheating or overcooling issues ALL the time if it waas right?

I should probably add, when turning off the engine when warm, the fan continues to spin for another 4-5 seconds before it comes to a stop. I am not losing any coolant either, and now that I think about it, i probably just changed the coolant instead of properly flushing it I am thinking it is not so much the clutch fan, because I should not be reaching 110 deg oil temp on the motorway with normal cruisy driving right?

not losing water new thermo recent flush changed water pump Hi all It was about 30 degrees today in Sydney, and I was driving up the M5 motorway and found that my oil temp was slowly hitting 110 degrees. My car only has a full exhaust and larger SMIC and a boost controller but i dont think those had any effect. Water temp was only halfway on the indicator. I was driving normally, no boost or anything, just cruising along. It finally hit 110 degrees, I wasnt too concerned, but then I got stuck in traffic (about 15 minutes moving very very slowly). During this time, the oil temp was moving slightly over 110 degrees, and then my water temp started to move past the halfway point, not good! When the traffic cleared and I was driving through suburbia, the oil temp came back down to around 105-110 degrees, and water temp back to halfway. Overall, I still feel that the oil temp was high. I have recent flushed and bled the cooling system myself, replaced the thermostat + water pump with a genuine R34 items (less than 6 months or 5000kms ago) I find that the oil temp climbs higher than it did when I first bough the car (it never seemed to go over 95-100 degrees) in daily driving. So perhaps I have an issue? Does anyone know what it could be or how I can TEST for the issue? - clutch fan? - blocked radiator? Thanks all!