nuffsaid

3 days now and stockers are fine....

Just paid for a set of black ones =) Awaiting some further step by step install instructions and the nozzles, fingers crossed they come in before the weekend! Cheers Scott

... double post ...

Hahah cool cool. My LEDs which are in a twist lock base for the buttons are working 100%, no dramas there yet (fingers crossed) But behind the LCD, the guy who gave me the LEDs in the twist lock base, those bases arent a perfect fit, they are actually smaller than the original bases, I think that is where my problem is. Do you agree DAN? I am inclined to think so seeing as the stock bulbs in the stock bases are doing okay at the momment. Too bad they're almost an orange colour when viewed with the blue buttons.

So perhaps that one spot is prone to some extra heat, that is why no matter which LED I use (I believe they are all working okay), somehow the LEDs are getting faulted? Strange why for 3-4 weeks there wasnt an issue at all. Is there anything wrong with soldering the LEDs directly on? I am worried that I could permanently stuff up something, OR I wont be able to return it back to stock if I wanted to (ie. the copper contacts are ruined?)

Stock bulbs still doing okay by the looks of things...what theeee?? LEDs broken? cant be because I switched them around and its always the same spot. Circuit can deal with the board perhaps? I did see that one of the legs of the resistor for the LED was touching the actual resistor, does this cause a problem?

I am still a little confused on how they are installed. Any more info or pics?

Any pics of the triple gauges and your main dash in white? I want to see how even the colour is on the main dash and triple cluster Thanks

No pictures but trust me go the stockers. I have mates with projection style HID lights (even factory Subaru ones) and they complain about the light putting them off when thrashing it around the hills at night with no street lighting. The problem with projection ones is that you have great bright lights for about x meters ahead of you, after which it cuts straight off to pitch black. Standard R34 xenons gradually fade out so it is not as bad. The projection ones are like white in front of you, then become pitch black after a certain point. It is kind of scarey.

Enjoy Adam! nothing like riding a bike, but nothing as dangerous as riding one. Ride safe dude!

I've returned the lights behind the LCD back to stock. No problems yet (apart from the ugly light you get from incandescent bulbs). This morning it was fine. If it continues to stay fine, what could it be? The circuit not liking the LEDs?

Okay switched around the LED that I thought was broken with one that doesnt give me a problem at all. Worked well for 2 days...until today. The one originally with the problem is in a new spot and that is fine. The one that never had a problem in the problem spot is not fine. This leads me to think that its the actual connection spot and not the LED itself. There are 3 spots for bulbs behind the LCD display, why would the first spot from the left sometimes work and sometimes not. e.g. park my car, leave it for 10 hours, come back, and it doesnt work anymore. This is frustrating.

Thanks Randy Problem is they were hand made pre purchased items. Strange the other 2 in the exact same design are not having issues. If heat is making it fail, I would;ve thought it wouldnt work in the morning and not the other way around. Ill swap the 2 working LEDs over to see if its a problem with the bulb or the connection on the circuit itself.

Hi all I have a 34 GTT and have replaced the bulbs behind the air con LCD display with LEDs. I bought these LEDs from an overseas seller who modified the stock bulb twist lock bases and put in a LED + resistor. Weird thing is that 1 of the 3 LEDs sometimes works and sometimes doesnt. 3 days ago it didnt work when I started the car up in the morning, when i started it in the afternoon it was fine. 2 days ago, same thing again, didnt work in the morning but in the afternoon after work it worked fine. Yesterday, didnt work in the morning, worked in the afternoon. Later on during the night it didnt light up again so I pulled it out, all looks to be well. The contacts, LED and resistor look okay (i think) so put it back in, and it works fine. I dont think its a loose connection because how can it work when I park my car at night, then not work when I start it in the morning. Anyone have any ideas? I would get a new one but they arent cheap and take a while to get over here, just wanted to figure out what the deal is, quite annoying hahah Thanks

Get some springs + sway bars and you'll be right for comfort and goodish handling. Coilovers will never be as comfortable as just lowered springs.

Problem solved, looks like the head unit connection to the antenna came loose.

I average around 11.5-13L per 100km.

+1 for Speed, when it was around.

I have a slight pulling left problem, only slightly. My castor is set at around your specs. When my castor gap was bigger (about 1 degree different) it didnt pull to the left at all. Maybe half a degree is not enough (I thought it was) so perhaps you need to have the gap b/w left and right bigger.

Hi all Started the car this morning, expected the radio to come on, all I heard was that buzzing noise as if its not picking up any reception. When I drove around it was still the same and you could kind of hear the radio station underneath all the buzz. It is as if my antenna is either broken or not picking up the signal, and hence the bad reception. Either that or maybe even a bad connection/loose plug. It has an alpine head unit and it was working fine a few days ago. Any ideas where to start checking? where is the antenna and how does it plug into the head unit? PS: yesterday it was a 41 degree day in my area and the car was parked all day outside, dont know if this caused it to go all funny. Thanks

Very stiff Id say.

Clark rubber have heat proof foam. Normal foam on one side, aluminium (i think) layer on the other

Hi all Heading to Japan, primarily Tokyo in early July this year. Is there anything car related happening? shows etc etc? Or even anything non-car related that might be worth checking out? Thanks!

Nismo key blank, if you can still find them, they are rare as anything for the R34. Maybe try a locksmith?

ARC SMIC replacement for a R34 GTT = 1700 ARC FMIC replacement for a R34 GTT = 1000 Ouch, Id like an ARC SMIC replacement, but look at the price, so much more expensive than a FMIC. I wonder how much better a ARC SMIC would be compared to a factory R34 GTT unit.