nuffsaid

Please also note that most good jap coilover systems are monotube. HKS, Tein Flex, Greddy, JIC etc etc are mostly monotube. But yes, they may have high spring rates. I think people are misled to think jap coilovers are not monotube. SK is clearly stating the advantages of a monotube over a twin tube, just make sure you get some monotubes with a goos sized piston if you can (with a reasonable spring rate of course)

Other thing is, a 1998 GTT still looks sooo much nicer than a 2002 XR6T. After 8 years the Skyline is still more attractive than the XR6. How old did that XR6T look in the video? I think that is where the problem lies with Ford and Holden, they bring out new models so often that your pride and joy is simply outdated within a year when the new model comes out. Skylines have been lucky, theres at least 5 years or more between them.

I dont know much, but that power curve and flat lines on boost/AFR are niiicceeeee!!!

Group buy/service! lets get a deal on this!

Ive got the exhaust and suspension. PM me if you are in Sydney (im in South West Sydney)

Hi all When giving the car a bit of a rip and shifting pretty quick, the gear lever cant seem to shift into 3rd. From 2nd to 3rd itll get stuck a little. You cant simply push the gear knob up so that it slots nicely into 3rd, it seems like you have to push it up, then right a little bit, then up again. Does anyone else have the same issue? 1st to 2nd is fine, goes down nice and quick. 2nd to 3rd is a bit different. Note: this problem only happens when I redline 2nd gear. If I drive normally but throw up the gear just as hard and fast, then it goes in fine, so I dont *think* its the way I drive, more so the clutch/gearbox/shifter. Thanks

Yeah aftermarket sway bars with poly bushes are reknowned for squeaks. Youll have to take them off, clean them up and grease them real good. Just whack on a crapload of grease on all the bushes.

Its standard apart from split dump, front pipe, hiflow cat, cat back and apexi pod. Although its always kind of done it, ever since the car was stock stock no mods whatsoever.

When I say lag I mean as you are off the throttle, the turbo kind of has to spool back up again when you are back on it. And you dont get that nice rush until the spool is 100% Almost certain there are no other mods, plus the R34 GTT turbos are already ball bearing. Missfiring? the exhaust does pop and rumble every now and then on idle, however when stepping on the gas, there is no popping/stuttering at all all the way to redline. But you're right Links, there is like a 500rpm hesitation. However, the car doesnt jerk, pop or splutter at all.

Well after reading this http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=146996&hl= Sounds like it is a pretty standard thing, a lag before the torque comes tumbling though. Just didnt think it the lag would be as much as it is. In NA cars I noticed that as soon as you get back on the gas, the car starts pulling. The feeling isnt so apparent with my car. The pull comes in a bit later.

Hi all In my R34 GTT I noticed that when I change gears hard between 1st to 2nd, to 3rd etc etc near redline there is a split second where the revs just hover at around 5000rpm then the car pulls hard to redline again. I initially thought it was the clutch slipping a little, but Im almost certain its not. Other than a full exhaust there arent power mods, plus I just had an Exedy HD clutch installed. So not much power, and a strong enough clutch. I'm pretty sure Im changing gears pretty fast, the short shift kit helps also. Question is, does the car seem to have to build power up again because as I let off the throttle and step back on it after the gear change, the turbo and IC pipes have to spin and fill up with air again. This may be fundamental turbo car behaviour, maybe its not, dont know, my first turbo car! haha Anyways, my BOV is standard. Does a plumb back BOV make things better? or is the factory one already plumb back. Secondly, would putting a screw to block up the tiny hole in the BOV help this? It is kinda annoying coz you want the car to pull hard as soon as the throttle is back on, but it takes a tiny bit of time before the car picks up and pulls. So 1) is it normal? 2) can you do anything to stop it happening (without getting a new BOV)? 3) will modifying the BOV help? 4) do you need a remapped, piggy back, standalone ECU to prevent it? Thanks

Give the oval Kakimoto a go, cannons have been overdone. Ive been told hte Trust PEII cannon is fairly quiet, still wont be as quiet or dronless as the oval mufflers though. Go jap, they usually have better sound quality

You might hit rich and retard after the install of the FMIC.

Dude that is pretty decent economy for a Skyline. Some people here have it much worse, trust me yours is okay.

Will vouch for the Kakimoto, JDM goodness!

If it helps tyres are Yoko DNA GP, otherwise known as EVS100.

Look for a white plastic hex shaped knob, that where you adjust it from. Turn it and the light will aim up or down. (this is on the normal HID, should be the same though)

Cat back? more like 10-15rwkw at most, thats around the figure I gained. Why? R34 cat backs are already 2.5" unlike in R33 and S15s which seem to have smaller stock exhausts.

Kakimoto is quiet Ive got one for sale, see my signature and PM me with any questions. I know what you mean regarding loud exhausts being a little embarassing.

Will most likely scrub the inner guard on full lock. My 234/40 tyres did it, adjusted castor and it fixed the problem. But Id say with 9.5" wide tyres you'll scrub no matter what your castor settings are

I heard that this exhaust is not as silent as you'd expect it to be. If you're looking for a quiet exhaust, go an oval muffler. Cheers

Mine are on 345mm all round, always preferred the jap nose down look more than the conventional 'too much gap in the front' look. Didnt notice much of a difference at all between 340mm and 345mm. Id say 350mm would be roughly the same too.

Hi all I have a used 3" Kakimoto R muffler that came off my R34 GTT. It is one piece and includes the muffler and piping up to the axle/diff. All STAINLESS STEEL. It will fit all R34 GTT coupes. ie. lines up with the stock rubber hangers. It should also fit R33 GTST's. It is quiet, has a nice deep tone, and no drone. This is a quality system from Kakimoto. This is in excellent condition, comes up nice and shiny as you can see. If you are sick of your cannon, or tired of your loud/cheap exhaust note, this will be a good replacement. $280 In Sydney. Please PM for further details. Cheers

Hi all I have a set of Tein Super Streets but find adjusting the rear dampening a real pain! Through the boot I can kind of squeeze in 2 fingers to turn the knob, but its pretty hard when you want to adjust it more than a couple of clicks. The proper way I guess is to either take off the rear seats or get an EDFC (not worth the $1000 parts and labour cost) Sooo...does anyone here have any neat tricks that makes adjusting easier? eg. extension cables for the adjustment knob from other branded coilover kits, or anything else funky? Thanks

Normal driving around town and suburbs, 90-95 Hard constant thrashing for a 20 minutes, 110