nuffsaid

Hi all Found 2 types of pads I am interested in. Have spoken to many people and they all recommend the Endless SSS pads. However I also stumbled across the SSM series pads which are slightly more expensive. From what I can tell they are very similar pads except that the SSM have very low dust. Supposedly the SSS have low dust as well, but if there is a SSM, then maybe it is not so low after all. I am looking for anybody's experience with the SSS or SSM and their dust levels and braking performance. Specs are: Super Street S Sports Temperature Range: 0 ~ 500oC Average Coefficient of Friction: 0.35 ~ 0.43 Super Street M Sports Temperature Range: 0 ~ 530oC Average Coefficient of Friction: 0.30 ~ 0.40 Anybody know what the difference in friction coefficient will translate to on the street in terms of braking? I am looking for pads for the street, with low low dust, not noisy and a good initial bite that does not fade off overly quickly. I know compromises will have to be made because you cant have it all. My current pads (Formula Ferodo) are great, but just too dusty. Thanks

Bump

Check out this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...79&hl=shift It is basically the same for a R34. And it doesnt look like you have a nismo shifter, the main shifter is black for the Nismo one I believe. You either have a C's or a copy. Those metal rings that you have actually lock the shifter in place so it doesnt move out. They are kind of like clamps. Hope that helps.

My exhaust is still for sale if you want it.

I think you're talking about those massively thick ones. Would they make any more difference than the normal strut bars?

Actually thats pretty good, R34 GTTs with the same mods (minus a FMIC) make only about 165rwkw.

Pretty much the same kind of mods and same power figure. I never had any misfire though. Only thing different is I have a small flat spot around 5000rpm. I am in exactly the same boat as you, a little moer power wanted without the extra hassles. I think running a elec boost controller would be good to bring on boost earlier and bypass the factory 2 stage boost control. I believe our SMICs are fine up to around 200rwkw, might stuffer a little during summer though. I might head for the SAFC route as its cheaper, easier to tune, and for a max power figure of 200rwkw I think it is fine. I wont be chasing any more than this.

Dropped to $75

Dropped to $450

Thanks SK, your right, it is flat for a few hundred rpm, then it pulls well. As a result, will advancing the timing put my GTT at risk of anything? dont want to be blowing things up. I would much rather doing this as it is cheap, and then if this doesnt work, a SAFC might be necessary. I heard advancing the timing is not good if you dont know what you are doing, but as you said, does the factory ECU have protection modes that will prevent this?

I didnt have a miss fire problem, but rather flat spots around 4500-5000 sometimes a little higher Gapped plugs to 0.8mm and that didnt help much. Why is that? is there another problem? it never had a flat spot when stock. Should advancing the timing help with this? or a SAFC?

r33mad what tyres did you have before?

What tyres did you have before?

Anybody have any ideas? its quite annoying having the door slam on your leg when getting in the car haha

At the end of the day, apart from all the fancy bits to it, is this EBC the same as the Profec B Spec II? ie. same solenoid?

Another pic added.

Same happens for me, quite annoying. The door slammed on my finger once because of it! If there is a solution Id like to know also

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I have no doubt that it will be capable of handling that power, just a matter of whether in hot weather whether the power will be better with a FMIC or SMIC

I wonder how these bigger side mounts will do in the heat of summer in comparison to FMIC's. It might be good now but in summer it might suffer from heat soak, I wonder what the difference is between a FMIC and aftermarket SMIC in this case. Anybody know?

What FMIC did you have? Was it also an ARC one? Maybe a ARC FMIC will have better response and driveability in comparison to your old FMIC. ARC are supposedly the best cooler makes in the world.

Maybe get a good EBC and that will prevent spiking?

I guess the other thing is, it is a pain to get the car retuned if there are more mods done to the car, we'd have to wait for you to come to Sydney again. Quite frankly, if it did need a retune, I would only want you to work on it as opposed to some other workshop who is still green to the idea of ECu tuning. Whereas there are a few reputable workshops who Id trust and go to in order to get a PFC retuned.

Questions then: 1) how does the tune cope with changing weather conditions, ie. if tuned in winter, is a retuned needed for summer? Or are conditions irrelevant? 2) If we need to return it to standard, does that involve a remap by you or is this something we can easily do? 3) Why does your tune pass EPA and a PFC tune not if they were to produce the same power on the same car?

Pics of the flaps/pods fitted to a 4 door attached in first thread. Sorry the pic is a bit small but as you can see if evens out the lines nicely.