nuffsaid

Chrome brings out the silver of ur car more I think, black isnt matched.

Supposedly the aussie ones have extra heavy duty valving for aust. conditions. However the extent of this i'm not so sure of, might just be one of those things where they havent done anything except change the label. I am also definately interested in finding out what the specific changes are.

Vote for gunmetal!

It is bolt on, ie. it will bolt onto the existing hangers and even the hanger near the rear sway bar. You just need to get the piping made up for it from the cat to the point near the rear sway bar or diff.

Well I guess its probably not worth me going out to get one. I always thought that it would make the car run nicely on a hot day. Cheers

Sorry the rest of the exhaust is actually on the car, cant separate. All you need to do is go to a local exhaust shop and get them to make the part to the diff, pretty easy job and shouldnt cost that much. The most expensive part is the muffler. I am pretty firm on 200, anything less and I might as well keep it to interchange with my existing muffler when I feel like a change as its all bolt on/off.

Great stuff SK! Now, how can you tell whether a shock is mono or twin tube? Would you happen to have a list of commonly used euro and jap performance shocks and whether they are mono or twin tube?

I guess the question thats need to be answered is: "does a FMIC make the car run like as if its always a cold night? even on warm days?" we all know that on cold nights, our cars run much better, will a FMIC reproduce this effect in all conditions?

his car is probably already boosting to 10psi with the full turbo back exhaust so maybe a good idea to fit it, will come in handy in hot weather

anyone?

i think its the SUPER lows, the normal lows would have been better

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1. Is their simplistic valving adequate for Sydneys roads? 2. How do you know which Super Streets are mono and which are twin? I dont know where I got the idea that monotube is better, correct me if I am wrong. 4. Is that with pretty much all aftermarket coilover units? the threads need to be lubricated or else they will seize? The Tein Flex units have teflon coating on them, is it fair to say that they will seize also if not lubricated? 5. Thanks, good to know that preload isnt much to be concerned about on the street. I am not planning on slamming the car anyways, the super streets are set up by default to reduce ride height on a R34 by 45mm front and 35mm rear.

I guess the other thing too is though, we want to control our springs on the street, hence giving a smoother more comfortable ride instead of bumping and jiggling all over the place. I guess that is the only reason why we'd go for an aftermarket shock (Bilstein,tein,HKS etc) setup.

Apart from the look Roy, were there any handling benefits with purely lowered springs? I did the same thing once with my old car and found the ride very very sloppy (Lovells springs). I then put in Koni adjustables in the rear because the rear was all over the place, didnt make much of a difference. This was all on a Pulsar but, probably much different for a Skyline.

But a 8k spring rate shock with good valving can be as comfortable (maybe even better?) than a 4k spring rate shock with average valving? So its not just always about the spring rates, but also the level of valving sophistication right? In that case, I have a couple of questions for you regarding the design of the Tein Super Streets: 1) is the valving there pretty ordinary? 2) Also are these monotube shocks? 3) I believe they are bump and rebound adjustable (correct me if I am wrong) 4) are these quality units? I dont want the thread and stuff rusting on me and hence they wont be height adjustable anymore 5) i believe these are not fully height adjustable, as changes in height affect the preload on the spring, is this a big deal on the street? Thanks again

makes sense roy. which jap shocks do you recommend getting then? ones that can control the spring rate and arent too bumpy.

Good to know its finally sorted!

Thanks SK! Also, can it be possible that a coilover unit, even though the spring rate may be higher, may actually provide a smoother ride more comfortable ride than a coilover unit with a lower spring rate? I hear Aragosta is a v good brand and copes well with rough roads. See: http://www.aragosta.co.jp/Aragosta/comfort.aspx For a R34, its spring rate is F 8.8 R 6 (seems a bit high) Or a set of JIC's http://page14.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/s23405334 Or Zeal Function XS http://www.nengun.com/catalogue/product/384 Has anybody used any of these units on the street?

Thanks for the clarification. Then in that case, does the height or the diameter of the spring have any effect on the stiffness of the spring? Or can we simply look at the spring rate? ie. 5k.

See here: http://translate.google.com/translate?u=ht...Flanguage_tools if you compare the ER34 GTT and the BNR34 GTR spring rates, they have almost the same rate, but the 250mm and 275mm difference in the fronts is what puzzles me.

Hi all I am looking for some adjustable coilover units and many places quote spring rates like the following. E.g. for a R34 GTT the fronts are 5k/250 but for a R34 GTR the fronts are 5k/275 What does the bit at the end mean? ie. whats the differene between 250 and 275 even though they are the same spring rate?

Spring rate?

Tein Super Streets? they are suited to our roads I believe and are not rock hard. Anybody with experience in these?