nuffsaid

Hi all Looking for a set of R34 GTT coilovers in v. good condition. Must have relatively low spring rates and be height + bump + rebound adjustable. Something like the Tein Super Streets would be good. I do not want R33/34 GTR coilovers, I know they fit, but they just aren't suited towards the GTT. Thanks

Extra pics attached. They fit fine on a S15, and R32 also.

Hi all I have a used exhaust for sale. The flange is from the differential back (I am keeping the part from the cat to the diff). It is a quality stainless steel japanese exhaust, brand unknown. The flange is 3", but the piping is 3.5" ALL THE WAY. Unlike cheaper systems, the piping, and the section through the cannon muffler is 3.5". Hence the flow is not restricted as it goes through the cannon. Makes a great sound, not overly loud, a nice rumble to it. Fairly light weight, especially when compared to the stock muffler. Only one scratch on the bottom muffler (see pic), else the exhaust is in excellent condition. If you look at the pics you can tell that the exhaust hangers are hollow to save weight. It is pretty much the same design as the Fujitsubo PowerGetter for the R34. I am pretty certain it will fit the R33 without dramas as I have put on a R33 exhaust onto my R34 before. Location is Sydney, price is $200.

Hi all I have a set of stock R34 GT-t rims for sale. I believe they are 17 x 7.5, 114.3 PCD and +40 offset. These rims should fit R33's, and R32's without any problems. On 2 rims there is 1 scuff mark on each of them (see pics). The rest are fine. A very strong (R34 rims are forged steel I believe) and nice looking wheel. The rubber on them are 225/45/17 Yokohama / Advan DNA GP. These are the same spec to the aussie versions which are called the EVS100. Excellent tyre, both in the wet and dry. Could not make em wheelspin in the dry, in the wet, could get em to break traction when flooring first gear only. There is a good 40-50% left in these tyres. They came off my R34, but have attached a pic of what they look like on a R33, R32 and S15. Located in Sydney, price is $750.

Anybody else with any opinions regarding the coilovers above? I wonder what the piston size is for each. I also came across Tein Type CS coilovers which are 4k front and rear and supposedly built for "comfort".

PM Sent

Abo: what kind of overboost are we speaking of here? with my full exhaust and a cold night, im getting close to like 0.9kg/cm on the stock boost gauge, dont know how accurate that is though

I used araldite, that glue that comes in 2 parts that you mix dries up clear, and dries as pretty hard plastic, just get it all around the nozzle and the outside, cake it on might be useful as hot glue guns arent that strong just be careful and try not to get glue inside the hose

Same thing happened to when I was changing my plugs. Didnt notice it was there and snapped it when removing bits and pieces to get to the plugs. With it broken, there was no effect on performance or anything, I didnt notice any strange in the car either. Only thing was that the engine light came up because I disconnected the plug. But if you connect it and just leave the nozzle unattached, I think its fine. You can try getting some liquid nails and gluing it back on, thats what I did. Worked a treat for me, but I ended up finding a GTT wreck and replaced mine in the end anyways. A new sensor from Nissan will cost you apprx $150, well that was the quote I was given. I know a few guys who have blocked off the hole that the hose from the MAP sensor would lead to, and some guys just leave it. No problems reported frmo them yet.

Master cylinder recondition inclusive of genuine parts and labour $400 The car feels like there is some slack in the brakes. The first centimetre or 2 offers no bite. Is this adjustable?

Yeah maybe its a common occurrence. Its not that bad, I mean the brakes a better than how they were before I got all the work done to it. I just wanted to know why its happening, its quite annoying but maybe not worth a master cylinder rebuild.

Seems a bit cheap, is that inclusive of labour?

Its definately insane, but you can get different spring rates, dont know if theyll go as low as 13/9 though. How was the ride height? and previously what springs did you use with your KYBs? Is handling better on good roads? And does anyone know if the super streets are both bump and rebound adjustable?

Reconditioning? sounds expensive! Whats the expected price to recondition the master cylinder? I didnt think that bleeding them again would make a difference because at a stop, pumping the pedal doesnt really improve anything. And pads were properly bedded in 3 weeks ago as per instructions on the box.

SK what do you think of the design of the G4's? are they too simplistic? are the teins too simplistic?

The thing is though, when I am actually stopped at the lights, no matter how many times i pump the pedal, it doesnt get harder. So it only feels harder when i pump several times when i am coming to a stop. Note: Formula Ferodo pads in front, Bendix Advance in the rear. (this might help)

hi all I noticed in my GTT that when I am driving around, the first application of the brakes dont feel as hard or firm as the second touch of the brakes. Basically if I want to come to a stop at the lights, I will brake the first time, but if I let go of the brakes and step on it again straight away, this second time I step of the brakes it feels to have a better bite and is slightly firmer. Why is this so? Is this normal? Seems like I need to bleed some air in the brake ssytem? I recently had my brakes machined, new proper pads put in, and bled. I also have a brake cylinder stopper (which was not removed when bleeding the brakes, dont know if this matters) The person who did it all bled the brakes from the front drivers side, to the front passenger, then did the rears. He said that order did not matter. Its quite annoying as I thought my brake service would have made my brakes feel better than this. Any help is appreciated!

Got the heat shield back on and proper muffler to suit my exhaust, boosts normally now. I think it was the crappy 2.5" muffler and heat soak causing boost to not reach its max.

You should get to 0.5 at least on 1st gear, I usually do. 2nd gear definately hit full boost. Note on a stock R34, you should see maybe 0.5 cold nights for full boost. If you have a full exhaust, then the 3/4 mark is expected. Thats what I found on mine anyways

Hi Has anyone used the Tein Super Streets (aussie revalved versions) or the new G4 coilovers from JustJap in their skylines? The Teins I think are good because of their softer spring rates (5 front 4 rear) but are about $1850. The G4's are monotube but with a much harder spring rate (around 13 front and 9 rear, CRAZY!) but supposedly these can be changed and cost about $1400. I want something for the street, it probably will never see the track. As you may all know, Sydneys roads are really bad so something that is comfortable is a must! Are the teins good quality? design? comfortable on the street? and good performance coilovers? I know there is also the other alternative, whiteline springs and bilstein shocks that SK has a group buy for. Thanks

A bit better performance, but not by much. I'd say the R34 dump is prob a bit better than the 32, and maybe thats why I didnt notice a huge difference. I gained about 15 maybe 20rwkw on dyno. From speaking with CES and heaps of other places, I was expecting at least 25 to 30 rwkw. But yeah, a bit better top end, but not much.

I can definately recommend the Kakimoto R. Great flow and no drone. Its not quiet quiet, at low revs and revving down it does growl a bit, but after say 2500rpm is pretty quiet. No drone at cruising speed. When you open it up its pretty quiet at high revs. Its pretty expensive all up as an entire syste, with jap cat back costs about 2100. I have not noticed a big difference with the dump or cat so you can skimp on that. Cat back prob doesnt make much of a difference in power either, but the jap ones will always sound better than any custom / el cheapo muffler. You wont notice massive power gains in a R34 because their exhausts are relatively good already (compared to say S15's) NB: also ahve 3" split dump and stainless catco cat.

How long should it last before the swirls come back?

After using the wax, will the swirl marks on a black car just come back after several washes? I just dont want to spend time on it only to have the swirl marks come back anyway.

I had the same problem. Got rid of the muffler and upgraded exhaust to 3" one since the muffler is only 2.5". Great power improvement but was a bit loud for me, So I put on the old muffler with my 3" system, shame though, I need a bit of 2.5" piping to connect it to the 3" resonator and the rest of the piping. Found it to be very restrictive! that nismo muffler is very restrictive, even though its Nismo, I see it more as a factory upgrade rather than a performance aftermarket part. Save your money for a proper muffler and system (3 or 3.5") and keep this nismo muffler on the side just in case you need to go back to stock for whatever reason (defects). Thats what I am doing, trying to get a proper 3" muffler now because with the big exhaust, the full exhaust was getting me about 11psi boost. With ONLY the nismo muffler put back on (i left the 3" dump pipes etc etc), boost decreased to about 8or 9 psi. So I see this exhaust as a major restriction. If you want the quiet loud option, get an ECV. With this muffler, quiet is quiet, loud is quiet, you cant really tell the difference.