nuffsaid

Would be interested in any other performance parts you have on your R34 if you get your wreck back Cheers

I am also curious. Would it be better to spend the $$ on the kit or buy say a Blitz Dual SBC Spec R which I have not found onje bad review for. The Spec R is dual solenoid and everyone says that its the best controller out there. I have read mixed reports about the AVCR and its reliability. This would then flow on to the boost kit since they use the same components.

Settled then, that was easy.

Yeah wonder if its worth it at all. Might end up clogging it with black soot seeing as its pretty hard to get degreser into the middle of the pipe etc.

Hi all I have a used cat back system for which I would like to clean the inside. There is alot of black soot and crap in the pips and muffler. Whats the best way to clean it out? Note: I dont want the insides rusting on me! so maybe water or something isnt good? Thanks

pics of my exhaust attached

Hi all Looking for a Fujitsubo Legalis R or equivalent oval type cat back exhaust for my R34 GTT. Preferably 3" or 3.5" Am willing to swap my existing 3 to 3.5" progressive japanese cannon system for one. Cash adjustment will be provided depending on exhaust. The system I currently have provides terrific flow (increased boost after I put it on) and was a mean rumbling sound. Not overly loud but just right. Condition is excellent. I am just not a fan of cannon mufflers. PM for details if you are interested

When the car gets really warm (20 mins of driving), mine is anything from 90 to 95. Oil pressure when I start the car is 6ish. When it gets warmer itll idle at 2, when you revv it a bit, pressure increases to around 4.

very interested as well, good stuff fellas!

Check that if you dont have the apexi boost control kit, that the boost control feature on the PFC is set to off. Common problem ive read about.

A/C definately works, especially when the car is parked under shade on a hot day. However if the car has been out in the sun all day on a hot day, it doesnt work as well, but thats normal I think, all this black interior in the car doesnt help on sunny days! hahah I also noticed that even at night, the cabin of the car can get a little warm, is this normal for skylines? they seem to make alot of heat. you can feel warm air coming through the air vents sometimes (heater is not on)

BOV causing your stalling issues? I would not be surprised But check your alarm, mine cut out while idling once, I found out that the power supply to the alarm was a bit loose causing the car to suddenly idle funny then shut off.

I get anywhere from 350-450 a tank pure city driving, stop and start. Depends on the driving, if your always on the freeway then expect to get close to 500.

Anyone?

Most of the points above I understand. However, now I have to clarify: are there 2 fans only, the engine and the A/C? so the one I am referring to must be the A/C fan? then why is this fan blowing directly onto a black radiator (the main big one) and not the A/C radiator which I now have to go and find somewhere. hahah

Oh so even if the water temp guage is sitting halfway, it doesnt mean it should come on? But say the air conditioning is on, and its a warm day and the car has been driven around for a bit, you'd expect it to be on right? And when you are referring to the engine fan? thats the big one in the middle right? then where is this a/c radiator?

I have done a search and found 30 pages of crap. And on some threads, people are saying it comes on when the car is on, others when the temp reaches X degrees. I found your post as per below: "The A/C fan is controlled by the thermatic switch in the bottom tank of the radiator. It only activates when the coolant temp gets too high. Under normal circumstances, the standard engine fan is able to maintain sufficient airflow to keep the A/C radiator cool. However, if you have the A/C re-gassed with the modern stuff (R134a ?), get the fan re-wired to come on with the A/C." Is the A/C fan the one that blows onto the radiator? If so then mine does not turn on when the air con turned on during a cold start (I hear something else click and sound like a fan though when the A/C is on, I think thats the compressor) How hot does everything have to get before its turned on, even short 10 minute drives and it doesnt come on. I should really take it for a thrash and find out.

Theres the black fan on the right side of the engine bay, and then there is the big white fan that blows onto the motor. I am talking about the smaller black fan thats pushes air through the radiator. Dont know whether this is the aircon fan? So many fans I am confused! haha

Hi all I have a look under the half closed bonnet of my R34 and noticed that the bonnet almost shuts off all the air supply to the snorkel to the stock airbox. ie. the front end of the bonnet kind of curls over the opening of the snorkel. By the looks of things, the snorkel is drawing air from the sides instead of directly the front. Even at speed I dont think that the air is forced or rammed into the airbox in anyway, but rather the airbox itself is simply sucking air. Is this how they were designed? pretty crap in my opinion. I opened up the airbox and found no other air source! everythnig comes from the snorkel.

Hi all I have a 34 GTT and was wondering when the radiator fan (the one that blows onto the radiator) is supposed to be on? Is it supposed to be always on? In the morning I drive it to work (5 mins away) and never see it come on, is this strange? My oil and water temps all seem normal. Thanks

Wow can I stock boost gauge really be that bad? Whats the point then aye! If it looks like I am running 0.7kg/cm, could I actually be running more? Ill probably just wait until I get my EBC, a couple of them display the boost level. Thats accurate right? But yeah GTX, why not get your timing pushed back to where it was then youll be sweet, no need for a ECU/SAFC even! Your car was running fine before so get it back to the same state dude.

I wouldnt have thought boost would rise too, but it did for me. Perhaps the factory boost gauge is not as reliable as it is.

But a boost controller wont stop him from getting to 12 psi right? It will only stop him from going OVER 12psi? I am interested to in case I get a good muffler that increases boost again. Mine used to boost to about 10psi at 5000rpm, then creep up a little more to 12psi with the free flowing exhaust. Got kinda scared because I didnt want to blow the turbo up as I dont have a FMIC either. However, a restrictive muffler dropped everything down by a couple psi. Strange how just a 2.5" muffler can make such a difference to flow. I always thought that the dump and front pipe were more important than just a muffler! I think it varies on car to car when R&R kicks in. SydneyKid said he had a R34 GTT R&R when boosted to 9psi only.

Oh I am definately not implying that you change your muffler, I kind of regret it a bit coz I know its not flowing as good because the boost isnt going as high. However I get smooth acceleration, no R&R and a quieter cabin. I am looking for a better flowing 3" muffler thats quiet. You can change the spring in the wastegate, just got to find the right spring. I think thats tough because all of them are slightly different and will probably lead to different boost readings between turbos. Its a tough one, best bet would be to get a PFC to make use of the extra boost.

Mine was basically doing the same thing after my split dump, hi flow cat and cat back exhaust modification. I have a Apexi panel filter also. Thats it. It would boost to 12psi, at near redline acceleration would drop off a bit due to rich and retard I think. Anyways, I was not a big fan of the muffler, so I changed it to my Nismo muffler (which unfortunately is 2.5"). So My exhaust is pretty much 3" all the way except near the muffler where its 2.5". This brought boost back down to around 9-10psi depending on how cool it is. No drop off in acceleration so its pretty smooth throughout the rev range. Sticking with my 2.5" muffler for now as its more quieter. I also thought about getting a controller of some sort to limit the boost when I had the cannon exhaust on, but I dont think its possible. Any controller can only limit boost to what your stock car (upgraded exhaust) pulls.