nuffsaid

I wonder if the Turbotech $35 boost tap that everyone raves about on this forum will work better than the Apexi since its a tap and not a bleed valve.

Yeah looks like the car is spiking due to the exhaust, I dont really like the idea of spiking as I noticed that my car kind of pulls back a little when it does spike, probably some protection mechanism in the car itself. So a boost tap will stop spiking guys? Or is it more for just upping the boost?

what is the condition of the pfc? how long has it been in use for?

I just put on a split dump + huge stainless steel cat + cannon cat back on my GTT and didnt find that big of an increase in power. Everyone said that there would be a huge difference, I didnt think there was. Dyno result was 163rwkw, and apart from that I only have a panel filter on the car. So rough estimates, gained maybe 15rwkw from a full 3" system. I would not expect to gain any more (even though I expected at least 25rwkw), I think BATMBLs rwkw figures may be a little misleading as they are from a RB20 which might have more of a restrictive exhaust than the R33/4's have. And expect your boost to increase with the system too, after I had mine fitted I was running 10psi easily, and on my thrash last nite when it was cool, I found boost was getting closer to 12psi. CES is really really expensive, as expensive if not more than the japs. A mild steel cat back with magnaflow muffer for my car was quoted at $750. Trust PEII is cheap when compared to this.

Hi all I recently had a split dump and hi flow cat + 3" exhaust fitted to my GTT recently. Last nite was pretty cool and I took my car for a little thrash. Prior to the exhaust mods, the boost guage would read only a little over 0.5km/cm, but last night I found that the boost guage was reading a bit under 1 kg/cm. It looks like my car was boosting up to almost 12-13psi. Other than the exhaust, my car is stock and I dont think I will be modding it much further. When giving it, in low revs, the boost needle climbs at hits around 0.6km/cm and stays there until about 5000rpm at which the boost needle jumps to like 0.8-0.9kg/cm which is close to 12-13psi maybe. I also found that when the car hit clost to 0.8-0.9kg/cm, the car seem to stop accelerating as hard closer to redline, I think this might just be the car's protection against over boosting? Could this be right? I didnt think a full exhaust would have increased my boost by that much. I want to limit the boost down to about 10psi for safety reasons. How can I go abouts doing this? will the $35 boost tap help? or will I need an electronic EBC? Thanks all

I have seen S15 exhausts and they are tiny as anything, so perhaps you are right. I know a S15 dynoed at the same place, full exhaust, 13psi boost, and only got 160rwkw. CES and BATMBLs pipes are almost identical, I dont see there being much a difference in performance between the two. Also I would say their catbacks are equal if not lesser quality than the jap ones. e.g. Fujitsubo. S15s seem like they are easy to extract power out of, I thought Skylines were the same. Nonetheless, I shouldnt be complaning, its an OK number, dyno figures are only really there for diagnostics and comparitive/relative analysis, not to judge power figures.

Evil: torque increase? dont know, is there supposed to be a reading for that somewhere? So I guess its a good reading for the 2 mods that I have. Then a full exhaust is not all what its cracked up to be, sorry got my hopes up with thinking that the spit dump and cat + exhaust would do wonders as everyone seems to think. Whats everyone recommend as the next mod? Im chasing only close to 200rwkw, nothing more.

Ahhh dayam I didnt need to read that! haha =P

Anybody with a quiet (oval muffler preferable) cat back exhaust please drop me a PM. Thanks

Gorgasm: from what it says here http://www.cesracing.com.au/Products/ it looks like 45rwkw on a stock S15 except for their full exhaust and pod filter. Maybe they respond better to exhaust mods coz perhaps their stock piping is very restrictive, and the R34 not as much. Maybe they didnt mention the other mods Elushun: its a manual Satanic: really? coz I saw a HPI DVD with a stock manual GTT, pulled 148rwkw. ZXFIRE: Yeah the claims were for a R32, but seeing as a R34 has more power, I wouldve though that the gain would be more if anything. note: I have the split dump and that huge cat that flows at 706cfm.

Yeah I wanted at least 20rwkw, goes to show that maybe an exhaust isnt what its all cracked up to be, I now find it hard how CES can claim to make 45rwkw on a S15 full exhaust. No bleed valve no nothing, pretty much stock except for exhaust and apexi panel filter. True, I should dynoed before, maybe the car wouldve only made 140kw, make this a gain of 23. The R34 HPI project car made 148 stock. Satanic's website mentions a R34 with only a catback and panel filter making 175! hahah ouch

Oh so I am making 10psi with this setup? Fair enough then, no need for EBC or boost tap then haha I know its a linear curve and all which is good for a stockish car. I dont have a pod, just a apexi panel filter. And I dont think Im making 25psi, I believe its 10? Correct me if I am wrong hahah And with regards to BATMBLs pipes, doesnt seem like it made much of a difference, maybe its just my setup but the 16rwkw claim for the dump pipe alone just doesnt add up with my sums. I expected: 10-15 from the split dump maybe 5-10 for the cat and another 5-10 for the cat back. So worst case should be a 20rwkw gain, best case, 30ish??

Hi guys I had a full 3" exhaust fitted today on an otherwise stock GTT. BATMBL 3"split dump and front + big bodied stainless steel cat + cannon cat back with midmuffler/resonator. First impression, loud! haha power wise, didnt feel that much of a difference, a tiny bit better but not like a 20-30rwkw gain. Boost increased by roughly 2psi from about 5000rpm onwards. Anyways, I hadnt chucked my car on the dyno before so decided to give it a go. I know the R34 manual GTTs make roughly 140-150rwkw in stock form. Put mine one, 163.5rwkw. Quite disappointing actually. I wanted to crack the 170 mark, I know all dynos etc are different etc etc. I thought my car woulda made 150rwkw stock, plus another 25 at least from the exhaust. Here is the dyno sheet, what do you guys rekon? Tuner recommended getting a FMIC as inlet temps were getting high. Else he said everything is running fine (which is probably the best news). Too much expectation with the exhaust, everyone was telling me how it would make a huge huge difference, hahaha ah well, the saga continues. Thanks all!

Normal driving day or night it never goes past 95, sometimes it hovers a bit over 90 but thats the most Ive seen it go. If I am thrashing it around the hills, whats the expected heading?

Hi all Normal driving through the day (warmish day) I usually get at a 85-90 degrees celcius reading in my GTT. Night driving,anything from 75-90. Pushing it hard I get around 90-95. Is this normal or is it too hot? Water temp is always halfway throughout all this driving. I am usint Motul 8100 oil 5w40 if that helps. Thanks

Both cost about the same to run, generally you wouldnt be breaking things as much in the R34, but you never know. You'll get almost the same fuel economy, and roughly similar costs for insurance. But going from a lancer to this, you are going to be so so broke on petrol costs. $20 used to get me a weeks worth of driving in my old car, now its like $70, and for a struggling student, tough! Not to mention if things start breaking, your in for it! parts are pretty expensive and hard to come by. Then you have things like tyres, brake pads the usual maintenence stuff. And I said I was gonna keep the car stock after i got it, that doesnt really last for long. You'll be itching to spend even more money on it! hahah Nonetheless i say go for it, itll make you happy, but broke! I dont regret getting mine.

plazmaman?

Argh conflicting reports! ahah

Does it save on fuel? or only works really when your on boost? I originally wanted a PFC but dont have big plans for the car (not even a FMIC) so don't think its necessary.

Thats what I thought I could do, but it got real annoying, esp at night when you can hear everything. It only cost me $60 parts and labour to replace all the drive belts, you might wanna give it a go. Nice and cheap.

Hi all Looking at getting an Apexi SAFC to improve fueling and hence fuel economy? My GTT is rather stock except for a turbo back, and would like to get some extra kms or power out of the thing. No plans for high boost, 10psi would be my maximum. No plans for huge mods (not even a FMIC) so no real point getting an expensive PFC. With a stock setup, and if I keep the boost the same, will I see any gain in either power or fuel economy? Or does this thing only really apply for a higher boost setup? ie. at 10psi will it be worthwhile? If anyone has ever used a SAFC on their car, let me know your experience and what you guys think of it. Thanks

Hmm maybe a SAFC is the way to go. I have a stock GTT and was getting 400-450kms (mixed city and freeway) before the light came on, a few months after now getting 350 to maybe 400, pure city driving though. Dont know whether this sounds right but I do know other GTT's, especially modded ones are getting more. I drive OFF boost almost 99% of the time. So yes, Id like to know whether there is a fix for this? perhaps a SAFC might be the way to go. Ill also chuck it on the dyno to see how the figures turn out.

Adjust the belt tenion, or change the drive belts. thats what i did and it went away.

i feel ya on that one!

thats pretty much it