nuffsaid

Is your car running fine? I had that problem once after a service (changing the plugs). Car was absolutely fine though. The next time i started the car it went away. I then also resetted the ECU though just in case, no problems now. I remember reading that those lights are usually a sign of coil pack failure. As 666Dan said, you need to find out from the error codes what the problem is. However if the car is running fine, I am guessing its nothing and that itll prob go away. Cheers

Anybody?

Just read some posts and its a common thing thats happened to R34 owners. Stupid Nissan decided to hide the hose underneath the bracket, so alot of us tend to snap the damn thing when taking stuff off to say, change the plugs. The hose sits okay when everything is bracketd up, and I have used to glue to make sure its sturdy on the sensor itself. However I dont think this is gonna last and will definately need a replacement.

Hi all I have a R34 GTT and today, I broke the boost sensor in my car whilst taking apart things here and there. Basically it is the boost sensor that is just above the throttle cable in the middle of the engine bay. It is mounted on a bracket with a host connected underneath it. It is not the one thats on the side of the engine bay, The nozzle of the boost sensor goes into the rubber hose. I broke the nozzle and now most of it is in the hose itself. I noticed that when I unplugged it, the engine light came on. I need a replacement part and dont know whether other Skyline models have these. Where would I be best getting one from? Nissan / the wreckers? And how much should this thing set me back? (fingers crossed not much) Thanks all, really appreciate it!

Hi guys Are rear strut bars worth the money? And does anyone have pics of one installed in their car? Id like to know where they fit and whether you have to mod your parcel tray to get them to fit. Thanks

NGK PFR6G-11 is platinum i believe I am guessing coppers are either BCP and BKR? Can anyone help me with this one?

That will but only temporary I think. I tried some belt dressing, only a temp fix. Having the same issue, but its very random, sometimes when its hto, sometimes when the car is cold. Pain and very annoying. Would also like to know the fix.

Whats the part number for NGK copper 6's at 1.1?

Hi all Have called around quite a few places below and they dont stock Formula Ferodo pads for my line. - autoone - burt bros brakes - motospecs - compfriction - barrie smith motorsports Only Repco has them, 180 for the front and Ferodo Excels 80 for the rear. Does anyone know where I can source these pads for a better price? Quite pricey these are! Thanks

Your looking at close to 1000 for the set.

Let us know how u go with it dude. Gluck

Eberyone says theyre pretty good, on par with the Azeni ST115 if not better. I've got them now, just scrubbed in. Seem good, comfy and not noisy. Couldnt test it in the wet yet though. I have Yoko DNA GPs which were better I think because they had much stiffer side walls, however noisier and made the steering funny as the tyres made the car tramline a fair bit. Compared to the other tyres, I am 100% certain you made the right choice mate!

Yeah my brakes dont feel too great, wouldve expected more for 4 pot calipers. My pulsar brakes used to pull better in city driving. Pads are new when I bought the car but dont seem great.

Looks like an easy thing to do, worth the money though? Or is it better spent on good pads?

Looks like Ill have to take it to a mechanic to get it sorted out. I noticed that when I sprayed the main belt on the left side, near the alternator thingo, the sound goes away.

Looking for something like this: http://www.upgarage.com/upgarage/stock/sto...20&tenpo_id=014 Can anyone get stuff from Up Garage?

I am pretty sure you'll get it, they took heaps long with mine too. Took forever to answer emails but they eventually did. Poor service sometimes I have to say.

Hmmms too much grey areas when it comes to this stuff. Thanks though, makes for an interesting read.

Yeap twin tip muffer style, not twin cannon. PM me with the details if you find out. Cheers

I chose a 235/40 FK451, much more comfortable than my thicker sidewalled Yoko DNA GPs. I think the Yokos had a very stiff sidewall. The Falkens seen okay, driven 50kms on them. Was slippery in the dry at first because I think of the release agent thats on the rubber, but seems to be better now. Dont know how many kms it needs to be scrubbed in though. Anyone know?

I think they parts are interchangeable. But they have slightly different specs. ie. R33GTR might have different spring rates and valving?

Something thats not cannon. Oval shaped muffer? twin twip muffler?

Using Motul 8100 5w40.

Any non-cannon types?

Some recommend not to use compressed air close because it will destroy the filter element. Vaccuum is ur best bet.