JZP

OK, did the oil cooler plumbing. all good. Found a piece of cast aluminium that had broken off the engine somewhere - WTF? Discover the screaming fan belt is actually the water pump broken and lost a piece (but no leaks!)! New part ordered and on the way. SO, cutting things fine for DECA with the barge. Can I just swap cars over at the last minute? I might need to use either the MX5 or new Focus ST...

Ahem... Yes... Testing around a car park.... Thats what I was gonna do ?

I have wheeled concrete - it's a killer! I did something half the size on a hot day with a couple of blokes. Nearly killed me. If it is only a small cost for pump - do it! makes life easier.

You might be able to get a mini mix truck down the side if you can get a car there. Otherwise the concreter might charge more to wheel barrow the loads down the driveway. Concrete pump is probably arranged by the concreter. Adds to the cost too.

Lower maintenance in the long run. It's just shiny concrete. Painted concrete will eventually need re-painting. Depends how fussy you are and what you want it to look like. Personally I hate my painted floor. It just looks like it needs maintenance all the time. You can't touch it up as it looks patched up. Then again my mates two pack floor looks a million times better and it is in a commercial setting. Oh yeah, make sure the concreter cuts expansion joints into the slab with a concrete saw. Don't let him trowel in a join, as you won't be able to run your trolley jack across the floor with weight on it (eg car or transmission).

Quite expensive to do polished concrete. Personally think it is overkill for a workshop. I'd just do a smooth trowel finish. You can ask the concreter to do a high-gloss finish with the 'helicopter' tool.

Ha ha. Yep! Long time coming. Having a baby and doing an engine will delay things a bit.... Now to finish the oil cooler plumbing and do some testing before DECA. otherwise I'll be using the wife's mx5.

Their foil insulation looks OK. It seems they are using the bracing in the roof, and they are using c-section which is a bit cheaper. Cheaper cladding is thinner & some companies count the paint as part of the thickness!. Depends what your budget is at the end of the day and what you are prepared to pay. I removed my skylights as I live in a bushfire area and lost lots of equipment during black Saturday because of it (fire burnt through). Not sure if that is a consideration for you. However light is really important, so make sure you put lots of flouro's in! Expenses jump when you go over 7 and 9 meters. You shouldn't be in custom territory over 7 meters!

OK, I've built a few large sheds myself. I purchased my sheds from Senior Steel in Shepparton, cheaper in getting the kit and engineering done all in one place from Rodney there. Tell him Jack sent you. The other place that does well engineered sheds is safety steel structures in Dandenong. You might want to do a comparison with those guys. Steel prices are only going up, so $5k doesn't sound expensive - but devil is in the detail - what kind of columns and beams & thickness are they supplying (RHS vs c-channel?). Is it a clear span, or do they have knee-joints holding the roof beams up against the vertical columns? Technically you get what you pay for, steel just gets more and more expensive as time goes on. It just depends if you are dealing with a reputable shed company and you trust the guy on the other end. Make sure you get all the engineering drawings, council paperwork done, install instructions and they are easy to follow. Windows are good, just depends if you are likely to be in an area where someone might use it to break in? It's nice to be able to look outside, have some natural light and open a window if you need to. Use the rolls of foil bonded with fibreglass, in the roof between battens and the roof sheet. Best to do that install during construction - much harder doing it later. Most of the heat comes from the roof, so walls aren't as important. Paint the floor after - installing the shed will wreck the paint if you do that first. Just use a 2-pack paint, my mate runs a tyre business and the 2-pack is really durable. I used the cheaper roll on stuff and it scratches way too easily (plastic storage containers can even scratch the surface of my floor!).

Form completed and emailed last night!

Bit late in reply but if you're just after a switch to stop the battery dying, then switch the negative instead of running active wires thru the car. Did that in my 33. No need for relays etc.

Third gear for most of the track. you have a good spread of power/speed in that gear!

any sign of said vid?

Natsoft says Richo is dayum faaaast. Great work.

I have a Tilta but find it rattles a lot . Also found out a batch of the tyres they used were problematic. Any of you other owners experience the same/similar?

Seeing as the $$ spent on paint and panel I'd say yes....

http://my105.com/ListingDetails/tabid/65/p/1/k/Portman/id/5737/Default.aspx This is my neighbors car! And he can steer! You're onto something.

Vey esteemed company it seems. Great work .

They didn't have parts such as seatbelt retractors for the '32 - when I had my GTR a couple of years back.

Or buy some ebay china special ally ramps. Come in various sizes. they have a lip that will sit on the edge of the container and aren't heavy to move around. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-x-Aluminium-Heavy-Loading-Ramp-323cm-1805kg-/390408180987?pt=AU_Motorcycle_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5ae62414fb&_uhb=1

Saw a bit of Richo driving on Speedweek - covering Vic Drift. Props to Richo!

Spark plugs (cracked) caused revving problem and wrong injector seals caused similar symptoms for me. Took ages to diagnose and lots of swearing.

Ballpark $$ on the Motec setup? Edit: just googled it... nice bit of kit

Skyline R33 GTST Series 1 rolling chassis Body and chassis rails quite straight, wine red in colour, paintwork not so good (previous owner rubbed it back, started prepping for paint job and left it) No engine, suspension, drivers seat, bonnet or front bumper/associated parts on the front. You get what's in the pictures. Heaps of spare bits and pieces. You can also have the auto trans it had. Great candidate for track car project I'm in Kinglake Victoria, pickup obviously! Price: $600 Contact: PM or call 0401 994746

Very interesting. Watching the EV industry to see what after market industry springs up. I expect adoption of EV to happen very quickly for suburban commuting, as the dumbing down of drivers continues. I like where you're going with your build. Keen to see where it takes you.