ChEwDog

DONT SHIP TO U.S.

i know this thread is supper old but i found out what wus happening with my tranny noises....it turns out my pilot bushing wus an automatic pilot bushing instead of a manual transmission one. it stuck out about an eight of an inch out and was supper thick meterial compared to the ones provided in clutch kits. . when i got the swap they must have had an automatic trans and switched it with a 5speed and just bolted it up and sold it as is....check your swaps when buying guys......

did anyone find out what was going on with his tranny? mine does the same thing...but mine does it only at innitial take off from a standing point...and i have to just take off and not mind the noise and it goes away then it drives and shifts normal???, but it sound horrible when it happens.. or i just clutch in and try to take off again and it goes away? what could be causing this.....? and it doesnt do it all the time? i put it in first and slowly release clutch to take off and it seems to be grinding on something or as stated above...? i took my whole engine out and tranny. now ive been told it could be a faulty throw out bearing but im not sure? the throw out bearing spins so much so i think that indicates its bad, so i bought a new one and its gonna be replaced...but in meen while im replacing the rear main ceal since engine and tranny are parted. clutch looks great along with pressure plate so it cant be that?...no burn or worn out marks on fly wheel nor clutch.... could it be a bad transmission..? but this kinda just kreepd up and starting doing it out of knowhere...??? i also bought a new pilot bushing... so im replacing that aswell....anyone have any past expiriances with a similar issue? also fluid lever was good so it wasnt running dry or anything.(redline light weight shock proof) (ugrading to amsoil when i put it back) i dont wanna put it back after replacing the main ceal, pilot bushing and throw out bearing.... if its a bad transmission....i doubt the transmissionn is bad because it only does it at initial takeoff..... it ingages fine without any noise or anything...??? ?

k thanks ...i also found this thread.... http://forums.gtrcanada.com/general-skyline-tech/40944-blow-off-valve-recirculation-setup.html makes much more sence now. thnx.

i have a quick question regarding my stock bov... i recently ugraded my inlet pipe with an aluminum pbm pipe but it didnt come with a nipple to recirculate my bov. i wus wondering if it would be ok to recirculate my bov maybe into my intercooler plumbing? since the maf has already read the extra air from the bov ...would the car run normal as it did if i did the plumbing somewere else besides the inlet pipe after the maf? i know this is an old post but this would help lots . thank you.

ill just make a hole in the new inlet pipe so i can reserculate the bov air back to the intake. thx for the reply.

Quick question; I recently upgraded my inlet pipe(stock rubber) to an aluminum pbm inlet pipe .( for better breathing) . Doing so I had to delete a metal pipe that recirculates air from my bov back to my intake /inlet pipe. Bov is now releasing to atmosphere causing my rpms to crumble and engine almost wants to die off when I rev it. But idle is smooth on its own unless I rev it .i can drive it but when I come to a stop it wants to die off but it will fight on its own to stay on ,it just ruff idles for a bit and goes to steady idle after a sec or two.. By the way my stock bov is pretty loud for being oem as for this topic... to my understanding this engine was built to reserculate the bov air back to the engine ... . My question is...is there a way to trick my engine/ ecu to running normal as if the bov air was normally recirculating back to my engine or do I have to get a tune to adjust the new setting ?

letcha know what i come up with , hopefully its something simple as just replacing the alternator and starter.

So last week i drove up to a near city, estimated about 25 miles away from home to pick up my cousin up and go to a local junk yard and maybe find some goodies laying around the yard.... we stoped at a local autoparts to rent a tool , as we head back to my car, the car wouldnt turn on. it didnt even turn over , as if it was compleatly dead! it did click when i turned the key...sound comming from my strarter. as i opened the hood i noticed a realy bad sulfer smell, like rotten eggs. and noticed it was from my batterie. aww geeze my batterie just took a crap. checked all the fuses to make sure everything was ok and not just a blown fuse.... fuses are good. installed new batterie and car started right up like a champ. we continued with our day driving around all day looking for parts in diffrent citys, car drove normal and got us home. (drove about 100 miles on the rb that day.) continued to drive the car for about 3 more days and one day after work i went to turn my car on and it was compleatly dead once again? and that clicking soundcomming from my started once apeared evrytime i turned the key......so i had my brother give me a jump...car started right up. as soon as i took the jumper cables off it seems to idle a little odd for about a minute and the car slowly dies after. evrytime ive jumpstarted the car it does the same thing and wont turn on willingly on its own as if its compleatly dead evrytime? it just clicks.... i changed the battery and it worked for a few days no problem. i changed battery terminals. even put my brothers maf on to see if it was something with the air fuel mixure but it did the same thing...noting changed....(he has RB25 aswell in his s13) now i think my starter is bad, and my altenator is bad because as soon as i take the jumper cables off, it dies after being on, on its own for a minute or so.. then dies like there not enogh voltage to keep it alive. all the fuses are good. car runs good when hooked up on jumper cables.....? what could be causing this? any ideas guys???

running TOTAL 5w40, changing it this weekend....to 10w40 . hopefully it makes it go away.

my rb25 powered s13 just started doing that exact same noise...its loud every time i turn it on....and it ussually will go way after 5 secs or so..... drives normal and nothing seems to be wrong. only when i turn on the car it makes that sound...? it used to do it much quiter before,but it stoped doing it for a while and now the sound came back much louder and uglyer....im just glad it goes away after a few seconds of being on. not sure what it could be...Lifters/ near spun Bearing..? hope its not a spun bearing.... how much are lifter kits? ill try to record it and post the sound.

ill check it out and clean it , see if it makes a diffrence....and sometimes my car iddles freakin wierd ...honestly im pretty sure its throwing codes but my ecu light has been riped out ..or something ....when i bought the swapt to put in my s13 the ecu never had a light on it......so i dont know how to check for codes....but it runs good besides sometimes for a split sec when going steddy spedd it cutts off causing a tugging sensation....and when i fully gun it theres a flat spot 5 threw 6 k rpm....i have to let of the throttle half ways and it feels like it acutally goes better that way then fully gunning it.??? but thats another issue now back to the iddle problem.... any pics of how the cold start valve looks like? o and sometimes my car smells like fuel ...not all the times just at certain times it tends to....lol and i get about 320 miles to the s13 tank..is that bad? sorry for going off topic......

my rb 25 s13 starts the same way sometimes up to 2.5 k rpm........ its always done that since i can remember.. it has nothing to do with fuel pump ..got new walbro 255..... could it be bad timing? cold start valve? what is that and where is it loated....?

lol i will this time and ill post my expiriace shortly after i put it in .....if F1 drivers use it, it should be good s@#t....

so we found out what it wus....stupid turbo timer....disconected it and car works fine. not sure wy it would interfier with the whole electrial circuit/ but thanks for the replys.~!!

I've been using Amsoil fully synthetic motor oil on my Rb25det s1 powered s13 and the only place i could find it localy without having to pre order it is from a transmission shop, local and about 5 mins away from my house. So today i drove to the shop to get me some "Amsoil" as i ussualy do when i change my oil and they said that they were changing to another product.... this Product is called Total fully synthetic motor oil. dont know much about it but the shop told me its supose to be equivalent or even better than Amsoil . I went to there web site and it mainly says its used on European cars and its a low emmision product....my car isnt european ahahaha wut the..... but i have 5 quarts comming for me tommorow. Does any one know about this product or have expiriance with it. should i worrie that my car isnt euro product discription:

Did u find out what was wrong with your car? what fuel do u use? (and what is the deal with skyline owners that they dont know how to work on there cars...? taking off the intake manifold air tube over the spark plugs....come on.....REALLY!) goodluck with your dilema.

checked all fuses and pulled everysingle one of them out and there fine. we were told it mite be a faulty ingintion switch by some other fellow nissan tuners! ???

Hey guys, Me and my brother both have s13 with rb25det s1 engine swaps, weve had them for a few years now with out any problems untill yesterday....... he took the car to work and on lunch break the car refused to turn onn......meaning theres no electrical power at all....(compleatly dead) checked everything possible, fuses, terminals,,,ect....even tryed changing the battery to a new one and theres nothing? what could be wrong?

Series 1s have an igniter pack on top of the valve cover ,it has 2 green relays that sit in the engine's harness, one for the ecu, the other for the ignitor/coils, and it shares the same coil packs as the rb20 and 26's. Series 2 has individual ignitors built into each coil pack ( vs) one for all (series 1) which is also why it only has 1 green relay in the wiring harness which is for the ecu. and other electrical differences. Also the MAF sensor and plug...... 3 prongs inside the MAF connection = Series 2, 5 prongs = Series 1. TPS aka ( throttle position sensor) sensors are diffrent on S1 vs S2 and i belive that the cam angle sensor are diffret between the both. other than that i belive thats all the diffrences between each other...... they are the exact same thing and produce the same power, same turbo ect.... other then theese diffrences listed above, its the same S@!T hahha

i have a welded diff on mine since i cant afford a real one just yet . its fun especially on rainy days...but u gotta realize that its locked at all times and going into turns at a fast speed will break traction instasly and make your rear end go nutts. and when normal driving and especially in city limits..hahha be prepared to get strange looks from pedestrians when u take a slow turns...hhahha u go by tires real fast....

how you explained it, it sounds like u must of spun a bearing. my cousin had a SR20det and it started sounding like you explained and he spun a bearing. he just got the hole bottom end of his engine rebuilt.

its a bracket that was bolted to the tranny/engine...i didnt put it back when i replaced my clutch....its ouside of the bellhousing were they both mate together.....heres a picture similar to it..... whats if for? i dont find any use to it, it was just bolted on there..?