jordanlisa69

yea i read up about that but thats alot of money. im just trying to find out why my car is doing this tho because it couldnt be electronic could it? not on 2 completely different ecu's.

and i wana keep it and already looked into spending 2g on a power fc and tune and would be happy to do that. the mines is there because its meant to get more out of my car while i save up for the power fc. but looks like not even a power fc will work atm. trying to figure out if i need to spend heaps more money just to get it to run perfect.

ok so about the ecu its an aftermarket mines ecu so how would it have the restrictions of the standard ecu? and if my car does the same thing on 2 different ecu's then how would another one help? what would the fuel cut defender do for my car? I will probly take the car into NZEFI later in the week and get them to see whats going on. but not looking to spend that much more money on this thing. with the mods i have and the ecu it should be around 200kw as is. but i think its more around 140kw as on the factory ecu my best quarter mile time was only 15.5 wtf! so now you all know how slow my car really is.

Right here is the problem/problems. 1st thing the mods i have are: Big Pod filter, 3inch to 3 and half inch straight through exhaust with 2 resonators and split dump pipe, dsr heavyduty coils, new spark plugs, turbotech boost t. Everything else is standard So i had the problem of not being able to boost over 10psi with the factory ecu going into R&R. Even when i set it to 7psi it still spikes well over 10psi and is sluggish until it hits the set psi on the boost t, which is weird in itself because it shouldnt be doing that. So i went and got a mines ecu for my car and it works fine apart from it not liking me boosting over 10psi as well! its not as bad as R&R but has exactly the same feeling. So now i know that it isnt a electronic problem or is it? My car feels way under powered and sounds like it should be boosting flat out but doesnt move as fast as it sounds. I thought it could be tired fuel pump or clean the afm? Tell me what your thoughts are and what i should do? Everyone please help so i dont end up selling the wee beast.

I got them off trademe coz im in NZ and my mate has them in his 25det gts4. My engine runs absolutely perfect and i wouldnt have anything else to be honest. Nothing is going to out perform them for how much power i have. PLus they are like 400 bucks cheaper then yellow jacket and stuff lol

Its actully what the mechanics do to try help diagnose the problem. Probly the least stressfull on the engine as well. How would it be more of a strain at 1500 rpm then at 4500 rpm? Takes you about a second to find out how badly its missfiring. And then you can fix it. Unless you want to continously thrash your car finding out how badly its missfiring. And pretty sure it wouldnt have a problem with the gearbox. How would it?

gap plugs then put it in 5th gear at 50kph then floor it. if it missfires then it will missfire badly under this load and its gona be your coilpack. just spend about $250 bucks on a set of heavy duty dsr coils. they are some of the best

ive checked out the dyno thread for 25dets and i cant really compare them to here because when is it ever 1 degree outside in oz? haha and with mods like mine im only expecting about 180kw? surely i should be expecting more with the coldness.

ok thank you for that. because all im putting through it is going to be 12psi so how much kw power would you expect from a pretty much standard car? besides the mods i mentioned i already have.

and as for the front mount, why is it that subarus dont come factory with them? they come with 206kw and they dont need a front mount. one of my mates would be putting out around 300hp without a front mount at all fours. are their top mounts alot better then the skyline side mounts?

yea its mounted in the boot and you can see it in the boot so thanks for that we will have to move it around a bit. and i will definitely be going for a power run to check those afr's and want to see how much power it puts out too.

i will probly upgrade the fuel pump at some stage then. i heard that the walbro isnt a very good pump? my mate with the 20det bema has one and it starts to cut out even with the mines when it gets to quarter of a tank left. so we put 30bucks in and shes all good. so whats up with that? i got told walbros can do that sort of thing. but im going to stick to the mines because my mate got one for his rb20det 525 BMW and holy crap! that thing is insanely quick now. did a straight warm up with standard ecu, boosted alot, then put the mines in, reset it, and noticed a huge amount of difference. it felt like a totally different car. so im goin to try the mines out for my car because its the only thing a can afford atm.. but anyway i thought that 14psi is max to put through a standard turbo and 12psi is safe? this is all im looking to do, turn the boost from 7psi to 12psi. and i will be happy. i can feel when the side mount gets heat soak because on hot summer days here i took my car out on the track and on the trip there i was having a we spike now and again but when it was fully heated up and started doing some laps there was no spike and car was slower. but now its winter i wont be getting near heat soak as it starts to freeze at 7oclock at night haha. and i always use 98octane so in temps like these shouldnt have an effect compared to 100ron over in jap. should it?

right ive been told by some performance shops to upgrade my fuel pump and get a front mount. i think they are just trying to sell me stuff my car doesnt need right now. the mods so far are only free flow exhaust, big poddie, turbo tech boost T at 7psi. im about to get a mines so i can run over 10psi because of r&r. i live in Christchurch, New Zealand where it barely reaches double figures. so with hot air not being an issue how much power or psi could the side mount handle? also whats the max power the standard fuel pump can handle? sorry couldnt find anything about the pumps in search.

it depends how cold the air is at the time. i live in New Zealand and the weather here atm barely reaches double digits. At full throttal im barely getting to 4500rpm before it goes up to 10psi and hits R&R. my car spikes alot as well. ive only got split downpipe into 3inch straight through, big poddie and turbotech boost t set to 7 psi. You have got an ecu just like mine which is unlucky because you can only run 9psi, and alot of the time my car seems to run better and faster at 8psi not 9psi. a full turbo back exhaust probly wont help that much at all because you will be spiking alot unless its nice and hot where you live. otherwise do the exhaust becuase it will need to be done eventually and change the ecu. Im going for a simple plug in ecu such as a mines because its the cheapest option and takes away all of the standard ecu crap restrictions and will let me boost as much as i want to with out any "stopages" haha. hope that helps a bit

yea mate. thats right. im having real trouble keeping the boost low because the weather is so cold im half throttling it and its holding 9psi. and the turbotech is a boost t made by a fellow in oz and it cost me 45 bucks nz and the only thing that would beat it would be a electronic boost controller. im hitting full boost just before 3000rpm. which is very good for standard turbo. There are alot of threads on here about these boost t's but anyway the exhaust is def the 1st thing to do. get an aftermarket boost guage as well, i have an auto gauge which is perfect ( cost me 60 bucks brand new on trademe ). it gives you a much better boost reading especially when your about to upgrade something that will alter boost levels. and you will be able to see the exact increase.

hay mate im down in chch. my 33 has a big poddie, turbotech boost t, split dump pipe into 3 inch straight through. i cant run over 10 psi because it hits rich and retard. but when i hooked the standard boost solinoid back up it ran about 6psi straight away and spiked up to about 9 psi. so at top rpm it was getting max power it could. all from the exhaust that was on it. because before the exhaust it would hold boost perfectly. so if you want your car to run sweet here in these cold temps then all you will need is the 3 inch exaust done. and you will notice a big difference. plus mine isnt to loud, but it sounds absolutely pure. cops dont pay attention to it. im upgrading ecu though. to get proper power out of it and run about 12psi. so that should be the next step after the exhaust. hope that helps mate

ok guys i have the mines ecu in the car now. these are the problems.. idles at 1500 rpm and bounces around a bit. stalls every time i come to a stop. doesnt boost at all until around 4 to 4500 rpm, but shows its running 12psi from about 3000rpm. splutters around heaps and doesnt feel good at all. any reasons for this? the guy said it came off a rb20det engine so would that make a difference?

Im wondering how running the mines ecu wouldnt be as safe as the standard ecu? With standard turbo, injectors and running no more then 14psi what could go wrong? And for a cheap option why wouldnt everyone get it for the 1st step? standard ecu not letting me run over 10psi, so mines ecu will. run 12psi which will be 5psi increase on what im running now so for 400 bucks someone tell me how your going to get a cheaper better option then that??

HAHA oh boy i wish nissan never made the standard ecu the way it is.. Im about to get a mines and try it out. Cheers adis! on the mods i have now, big poddie, free flow exhaust, boost t, i ran 15.3 quarter mile at best on factory boost! the cars slow has hell and cant even get near 10psi as the ecu is totally gay! Just burns up a ton of fuel for nothing. so im getting the mines coz its about 1k cheaper then a remap and tune, i can run 12psi, and it will lean it out a bit more then the standard ecu even putting out more power. i doubt you can lean out 12psi on the standard ecu let alone the mines one. so mines should be safe as. plus i live in nz so we get max 15' C hahaha. love that cold weather. I also got told that id put out 310hp with a remap chip and tune, front mount, and fuel pump. so for 2k i can have that much power. or for 400 bucks max i can have about 260 hp. adis dyno proves that hes getting that power. but under that heat its never going to run good.

Thanks a lot adis your helping me out a lot here. For now i think i will get the mines because i can afford that now. And i will just run 12psi and see how she goes. Because in the end if the mines doesnt suit my car then i can always sell it for the same price and no loss at all really. If it works mint i will take it for a power run to check that its safe and wait until i can spend the big money. The auction for it closes tomo so i will keep everyone in touch on how it goes! Cheers guys!

they all sound good thanks guys but heres another option im thinking about. i can buy a mines for $400 and then i can run around 12psi if i like. would this be a better option because its so much cheaper? and what results would i get from it?

ok i have a price from NZEFI ( which is a good performance shop in Christchurch ) They put a re map board and chip and tune it for $987.50, with a front mount setup fitted $450 and fuel pump fitted for $300 ( walbro 500hp ) He said expect 280hp to 310 hp on about 10 or 11psi. So for $1737.50 is this good power? because i need a front mount. But what about the fuel pump? Also would it be cheaper to get a power fc and just get them to tune it on dyno for a few $100 or get a link and have no afm? All you experts tell me what to do!

I have found out some info on the link and pfc comparing them to eachother. unless your running over 600hp then the link will not be any benefit to me what so over compared to the power fc. The power fc comes standard with a base map for my car which for when it is running rich it leans it out a tiny bit but you can set up the check engine light for when you want it to flash sensing as much knock as you like. Im yet to find the g4 that plugs and plays as good as the power fc does? and i am looking at a mines ecu also but i read they richen it up and make it even worse on gas so that its more safe for your engine. And to adis, did you literally just buy it and plug it in and you had 200kw? or did it need a tune for your car? Because the mines comes suitable for a r32 and r33 but r33 has vct so it sounds like they would need to be tuned for your car on a rolling dyno or something?

Im in Christchurch and have heard about them. but a link g4, from what i have read, would just be a waste of money as i could get the same result from a pfc?

Spark is absolutely pure ae, i gapped new sparkplugs to .8mm and have new dsr heavy duty coils. and nothing is loose around the engine bay. I can half throttle it on 8psi all the way threw the rev range but once she gets near 10 its all over.