senilykSkylines

Ya, one of the last R33's made, when I had the new computer tuned we even had to change around a few pins that would not usually need to be changed. What I don't understand is why would having new yellow jacket coils make it worse? They are new and suppose to be better. I really hope i am not leaning out or my engine would be frying itself. I would have thought running it rich rather than lean would be what makes it go slower? Fuel pump is only several months old, unless there is a leak in the line after i installed, but then it wouldn't be pulling hard in the top end I would have thought. I've emailed the tuner...

Thanks guys.

It's done maybe 5-10,000 km after the tune. It seemed to run fine around the time of the tune an it has been gradually getting worse. I thought a miss was a flat spot? As in a stall in power, failure to ignite... possibly? The spark plug gap and the coils have changed since the tune but I did those because I noticed it after the tune (not immediately) I hope it is not the tune but I was thinking possibly the airflow meter maybe? or wouldn't it be?

I did have a mail order but then the tuner did a road test to check that is wasn't pinging and that all was running fine. I've only notice the missing a little while after the tune was done.

After researching I tried to fix this flat spot at about 3-4500rpm or so. I have tried setting the plugs at .8mm and it improved slightly. I have just bought yellow jacket coils and installed them thinking the old ones must have had it. If anything, it is now running worse! Good torque at up to 3000rpm and then it just goes flat and pulls a bit more at the end. What on earth could it be? Mods are: Mail/road tuned Z32 ecu Walbro GSS342 fuel pump 3" turbo back exhaust GFB Boost T K&N panel filter Yellow Jacket coils Running 11psi cheers, Dan

I just replaced my O2 sensor. It would run rough at lower cruising speeds (like when traveling around car parks). My tuner told me that it was the oxygen sensor heat senso that had gone. It would only do it once the exhaust started cooling down. It would do it more so we thought, because I had a 3" turbo back exhaust aswell which would cool down much faster. My tuner said it was making little adjustments the and that is what caused it to go wierd. I also got bad economy...maybe 350-400km a tank with mixed town and country driving. Since changing it I have done half a tank and am definitely using less fuel. BUT it is still doing a stuttering at particular times at idle cruze. It sounds like a rotary sometimes when the exhaust cools down lol. The O2 sensor didn't come with instructions so I hope I installed it right. It had three wires, two white and one black. It didn't know which white wires went around which way so I just crimped them hoping I got it right. Is there any specific way they are suppose to go even though they look the same? My tuner also said that he wouldn't be a 100% sure a new O2 sensor would fix the rough cruise since it may be because the exhaust is so free flowing unlike stock.

not everyone starts off knowing everything : b

Thanks for your replies guys, I'll get my head around it one day. Still what I am confused about is that my boost gauge lead is taking the boost pressure right at the intake just before it goes into the engine. So both turbos are having to move 10psi of air through the same size (volume) intake pipe all the way to the boost gage sensor as it enters the engine. If I get a bigger turbo do I get a bigger pipe? In that case it will be running more flow of air at 10 psi because of a bigger intake pipe. I UNDERSTAND that a Bigger turbo is capable of moving more air. With the illustrations of the bottle I am guessing that your mouth is the turbo and the bottle is the intake pipe? Whether bigger or smaller lungs, if they hold the bottle at 10psi and leak out of a little hole... how is it different. I know I am missing something somewhere.

Honestly confused. How does 10psi with different turbos differ? I can understand the explanation of different temperatures. 10psi of cold air will have more oxygen than 10psi of warmer air... hence why I want to get a front mount one day Regarding more air FLOW is what is confusing me. Does what determines it, is where the psi is recorded from? The engine will only take in as much as it takes in at 10psi hot or cold. How can you have more air flow with the same pressurised condensed air from different turbos.... bar differences in temperature (Which determines how much oxygen is present in that pressurised air). cheers,

It says down below "With forged internals and cast iron block". So. The real comparison regarding engine design as to which is the best design... would be an RB with forged internals, against the 2JZ - or a JZ without forged internals against the RB. Rb internals do well considering it isn't made with the extra forging process. So says me from my limited knowledge Unless of course the link is wrong and others.

http://jdmspecengines.com/toyota-engines/jz-series/2jz-gte.html

Top Secret put an RB in a Supra didn't they? lol. Probably just to pull a bit of tongue and cheek. Honestly, does anyone know if JZ's come with forged internals from stock? or so I have read...

LOL, cool and congrads on the upcoming wedding. I used my R33 and my bosses RS4 as wedding cars

Bit of a blast from the past but I thought I would continue a related topic instead of starting a new one. I've been reading around in many places and it seems the JZ family have it over the RB for max power output... but one thing I am confused about is why they are being compared? If I am wrong can someone please correct me, but I have found in several places suggestions that jz's have forged or pressure-casted pistons. Wouldn't the real comparison be the RB with forged pistons to jz's? food for thought.

Having some problems with my coils at the moment. I'll try taping them first but if all else fails I will look at getting some new coils. I've decided not to go second hand after reading comments in general around the place. I've seen these yellow jackets here on trademe Yellow Jackets and apparently they claim a reasonably significant increase in performance... sounds like a load of marketing to me. NE way, are they worth the money? Is it a rip off? What do you guys think. cheers.

cheers, thanks.

"Auto One" Whangarei NZ. I asked for an Rb25det one and they said $250.

I looked at getting one new...$250 8-/ I've got a Rb20det one for $40 in good working order and I am told it will work, but then again that is what the seller "says".

My O2 sensor is on the way out. Looking to install an R32 O2 sensor... are all the sensors able to be interchanged amongst RB series as i have heard someone claim? I have an R33 gtst 1997. cheers.

Not sure, definitely not a rattling sound. Sounds like a little motor ie the fuel pump. It's like a high pitched tv sound (You know, like hearing a tv on in another room). If it was rattling it would be consistent I would have thought. Fuel pumps aren't hard to install. I however left some wires screwed together and bare in the tank a few weeks ago and so I opened it up to cover and crimp them so they wouldn't short on the side or something dumb like that. I pulled the bracket out and I noticed the little filter on the bottom of the pump had little fluff or some kind of stuff on the out side of it which I took off (must have collected some kind of muck). I also remember the mesh filter being white when I first installed it, but it seemed to look grey/black? I wasn't sure if it was a black plastic tongue (or something) inside the white mesh showing through once it was wet. I dunno if it was suppose to look that colour. It might be a leak, but then it would always be doing it if it was. Could it be that the pump switches on longer if the computer has sensed a certain driving habit? like it is ready to go? I have a Z32 ecu in at the moment.

It has been doing it just now. I am pretty sure it is coming from the fuel tank area and sounds like the fuel pump, a high pitch electronic sound. When I first installed it I could hear it change pitch as I was cruzing at 10km or so as I I touched the throttle. But now sometimes it doesn't change pitch and just stays loud. But then it doesn't do that all the time, only when the car has been running for a while.

Hi peoples, Just would like to ask about a weird sound coming from my car. I took it on a road trip down south and quite honestly it performed brilliantly. However, after driving for a few hours and I would stop to get drink etc, a loud high pitched sound comes from under the car when idling. It sounds an awful lot like the fuel pump, but quite loud. I would start the car (the following day) and it would be fine. I even drove it like half an hour or so into town and it would still be fine. But it did it again on the long trip back home. It seems rather intermittent, and if it is the fuel pump working hard... why on earth would it be working hard at idle? Is it even the fuel pump? I installed a Walbro GSS342 a couple of months ago. So it is a new pump. Car appears to run fine though.

Just got back from a 3 day trip down south... Fun road trip, and I even was on the tail of a fast looking year 2000 + audi up the brynderwyns ; )