`nigno

Dude... take it apart, and double check everything. If you try anything dodgy to save yourself ripping it out and opening it up, your jsut gonna break something cost yourself mroe money and be back at square 1. Unfortunately its the only way to be sure in a case like this.

I would recommend the Blitz LM kit... or the older style Trust kits as both sets of piping goes through the turbo side of the car, meaning you do not require to cut a hole beneath the battery tray, the piping then wraps over the engine to your intake manifold. Its a slightly longer piping path but its much of a muchness really and a hell of a lot easier to install. Keep in mind any intercooler kit with both of the intercooler outlets facing the same way (meaning the piping sort of wraps under the cooler for your intake side) will work in the same way so you are not limited to just ARC or Blitz there are a lot of kits out there that offer this configuration. Example pics: A kit like this means cutting your battery tray. That is my actual engine bay see how both sets of piping come through the turbo side of the engine bay? And there is the cooler configuration apologies for the crappy quality phone pic The blue goes to the plenum etc, the red to the turbo, notice how the blue sides outlet on the cooler faces down and back towards the turbo side of the engine bay... thats what your looking for Hopefully that helps you out, and helps me out... coz the bitches are gonna FLOCK to me once they see my l337 mspaint skillz0rz hahahaha

Look at Horsepowerinabox.com, they have some decent priced pistons and rods and provide a few different brands (Eagle, Arias and CP from memory) Aussie company all prices in AUD and ship immediately.

I reckon your going to be stretching your standard injectors and fuel pump, not too mention the manifold won't suit and your standard ECU is going to struggle with such a large turbo upgrade Id concentrate on getting your support systems sorted out first: Fuel System - Engine Management Then worry about strapping a rather large turbo to it, without the fuel and tune to support that kind of turbo its going to end in tears eventually.

I currently run around the same power in my 32 GTST with a trust built rb25det and a big single... its not that bad, spinning through 4th isnt such a bad thing since we are both drifters just exploring opportunities to increase response without sacrificing peak power. Hell if all goes well on the RB26 I might even look at doing an RB25DETT for shits n giggles seeing as though everything else is just about done now. Just gonna wait on these dyno graphs of the 2510's do a bit more research and comparison, make a decision and get it all under way.

Oh sorry I wasnt saying they were the same i was saying "either" of those setups. I'll go hunting for some GT-SS graphs now, still wouldnt mind grabbing the 2510 graph though, just for interests and comparisons sake.

That dyno sheet would be greatly appreciated if you can hunt it down mate. And thankyou to the others for your responses too, so basically a pair of 2530/GTSS's is going to offer similar if not better response with a higher ceiling for total power output? I was under the impression the 2510's would spool a lot earlier than the 2530 due to the difference in design as noted in one of your replies. Even being the earlier design, if they are better responsively and will offer a peak power output around the target area, which based on the quoted power output in the above statement they certainly will, I would still really consider them as response is a BIG factor in the change... if its going to be negligible then my biased opinion is probably correct, stick with the big single. Looking at dyno graphs in the RB26 turbo results thread of twin 2530's, some come on even later than the big single setup thats currently on the car which hits at 4000rpm as opposed to a lot of those graphs showing 4500rpm with a greater peak power output (around 380rwkw as it sits, note rear wheel not all wheel, this engine is in a gtst). Further confirmation would be great and that dyno graph will certainly put my mind at ease if you can dig it up. Cheers James.

Im interested post up detailed specs, times, dyno sheets and anything else you have this thing looks like an insane project. Did you have much trouble adapting that box to the engine? Who and how did you engineer and fit in the shortened 9inch, can we get pics? And also please spec your suspension setup hehehe if you can be bothered of course... thanks. PS. Im assuming Minitubbed at the very least...?

If you want to be safe, do the fuel system first then the turbo + boost that way you wont be leaning out your engine which can cause detonation and a whole lot of other nasty problems you dont want to have Upgrade the Fuel Pump + Fuel Regulator and you should be right the standard injectors and rail will be enough for a basic turbo upgrade to something like an RB25 turbo. If your pedantic like me, might be worth upgrading your almost 20 year old crusty fuel lines and the filter while your at it, they are relatively inexpensive and just gives you a nice fresh platform to work with. If you want some budget items, grab yourself a GTR Fuel pump they go straight in and offer a great budget upgrade, a nismo/sard regulator will set you back under 200 dollars and your local repco will be able to provide you with fuel line and the filter, then you can rest easy knowing you have the support systems from which to base future mods. After that definitely look at an RB25 turbo, either stock or highflow and the AVCR. Using your fuel regulator you should safely be able to up the boost to a respectable 1bar with the AVCR and see no problems with your engine as long as it is well looked after, and still be able to avoid a tune or great need for aftermarket management, although it never hurts

Have one available. Gold Coast, QLD if its more convenient.

OK... first off, for the mods you have I wouldnt worry about it, theres not enough there for it to be worth your while. No Coilovers and a Brass Button wont make a difference to the tune itself. Yes you can tune a stock ECU - look up Dr.Drift he does wonders with them. If you buy an AVCR and decide to crank some boost in, it might then be worth a tune, just to make sure your fuel supply is going to be sufficient enough to support the increased boost. In saying that on stock items with minimal mods one would hop your not going to be pushing enough boost to require a tune anyway or your going to have dramas regardless. Its also handy to remove the limiters on the standard ecu, the dreaded, boost/fuel/speed cut etc. But for now bottom line is: Concentrate on other mods first off, a nice front mount, upgrade your fuel system then wind in some boost, maybe look to upgrade to an RB25 turbo things like that, your money could be more well spent

Have searched, and looked through EVERY page of the turbo results thread for rb26 and rb30 and cant find anyone that has used this configuration. Found plenty of 2530's but no 2510's, wondering if anyone has had experience with this setup or knows of anyone who has. Interested to know how much power this setup would be capable of and also when it would start making boost and hit full boost. Ive seen these turbo's used with great results on SR20's as a single setup, with insane response and a healthy power figure to boot. Wondering what 2 would be like on a slightly higher capacity engine with work. Basically looking to maintain a healthy power figure 450 - 500hp+ whilst increasing response, currently hitting full boost around 4000rpm. Turbo Specs: 300PS Output COMPRESSOR: -Wheel- 63 Trim - 47.7 Inducer / 60.1 Major -Housing- 60 Inlet / 50 Outlet - 0.60 A/R TURBINE: -Wheel- 62 Trim - 53.0 Major / 41.7 Exducer -Housing- GT25 inlet / Internal GT25 oulet - 0.64 A/R If someone with experience would like to hazard an educated guess based on the specs provided that would be lovely I just dont trust my judgement in estimating these figures. Plus im biased and think he should stick with a big single and just go to something with a newer design. Might also help to know the engine is 500+hp on a big single at the moment (trust turbo of some description although its a bit old, pretty sure its plain bearing too) stage 3 hks cams 275 deg duration, plenty of head work (polished, port matched, aftermarket valves, retainers etc), built bottom end (pistons, rods, bearings etc) and all the goodies you would expect to find on a car of this nature. (btw posting on behalf of a friend) Thanks in advance - James.

You are correct my bad Cheers for the tipoff about the grille to

Also whoever was asking about ripping a standard pump and an N1 pump apart to compare: N1 PUMP HAS ANTI CAVITATION PLATE WITH 6 LARGER BLADES COMPARED TO THE FACTORY 8 BLADE. PROVIDES HIGHER FLOW AND PRESSURE THAN FACTORY OIL PUMP USING A HIGH VOLUME SUMP ALSO RECOMMENDED . Shamelessly stripped off another site, but thought it may have been useful to those itnerested

I drift.... so high rpm is commonplace. As I said $1200 for a JUN/Tomei Pump VS $12000 for a new bottom end... pretty sure ill just fork out the dosh as I already have a modified sump Thanks for the info fella's.

I was thinking the same thing other than increased oil heat from larger turbos, the engine is only going to rev to similar revolutions as a smaller powered engine unless your running CRAZY BIG power and a HKS 2.6 that revs out to 11 000rpm. Or is it the speed that these revolutions can be reached (acceleration) that causes them to stop working. Hence the original question of how much power.

Hahahah I run 380rwkw+ depending on tune and boost, might look into safeguarding against premature engine failure and split with the mullah for a JUN/Tomei Pump $1200 including labour is better than adding another 0 on the end of that for a complete rebuild imo.

When you say "N1 pumps are no good for big power" how much power are we talking exactly before shit goes pearshaped?

Off the top of my head try ChipTorque in Nerang, QLD, pretty sure they offer a piggy back that might suit and save you some bucks on aftermarket management. I'll try n get some pics of the adaptor I have at the moment (for an RB25 but gives you an idea) tonight if i can get a hold of the camera.

Ive used HKS EVC's since they were brought out ages ago... and i SWEAR by them, never ever had a problem with any of them, they hold boost perfectly, are a piece of piss to install and always have a heap of handy features Also tried: AVCR, Greddy Profec-B and the Blitz SBC and still prefer HKS over any of them. PS. Its what im using at the moment as well.

Conflicting information... and to be honest i was under the impression that the first post is correct. Can someone please elaborate on how having a 2 piece with a center bearing would be stronger or confirm my beliefs and back up the first post. Reason in the interest is that i will need tailshaft loops on my car for DA next year (cams requirement), a 2 piece requires 2 loops, a 1 piece one loop, was contemplating going the 1 piece for both strength and ground clearance. If I have one i can slot it up into a recess and itll make hardly any difference, if i have to have 2 only 1 can go in the recess the other will be quite low.

PS. Deleting the AFM means you will need an ECU that supports MAP tuning im not too sure on whats available for RB30's though.

I can get you an adaptor plate so that the GTR Throttles will bolt STRAIGHT up no messing around for around $700 delivered to your door. Your looking at around another 150 - 250 for ITB's off the GTR, and then another 300ish to have trumpets made up if thats the way you wanted to go Can supply all of the above and organise quotes if your genuinely interested, have done this to another mates RB30E for shits n giggles with bits n pieces we had lieing around. Induction noise is so hot, and he reckons it makes a big difference to the way the car drives... I couldnt really comment having never driven it though.

It Aint Pretty But she f**king hammers... RB25 in my 32 Oh and I decided to dummy fit the rear wheels... overfenders leave japland in 2 weeks, not long to go now and itll be 100% finished. Dummied up the flare minus the overfenders obviously All ghetto'd up with tape just to give a general idea of what she might look like when done, overfenders and finishing should make a big difference but you get the idea By the end of the year the goal is to be putting down 600hp at the treads and to have all the cosmetic work finished.

Bank Account Details Please... consider it sold