ksx

Hi all, I wonder where I can buy new Splitfires to the lowest price? (including shipping to Sweden...) Thanks in advance!

...and also, thanks for your help guys!

Problem fixed!! Vacuum hose cracks (one was completely spilt all the way along the hose!), useless plugs (original modified to 0,5mm!) and crack angle sensor set to 27 degrees!! Air regulator, AFM and ignition coils works just fine. New spark plugs, rubber hoses and crack angle back to original 15 degrees - it's all fixed and it runs like a dream!

Hope that it will solve your problem! Looking forward to read about your update.

Ok, thanks mate! Will have to check that out then. Just to clearify: Air Regulator is the same thing as AAC valve, right? Or am I reading the service manual wrong? This Air Regulator, does it have a part number and how much does it cost approximately? THANKS!

Hey again, just realized that the problem is much worse when engine's warm! Does that make it easier to say what's might be wrong? Thanks

Is it possible to "clean" the AFM?

Actually don't know. Havn't checked since I bought the car, the plugs were brand new then. Will check tonight or this weekend. Temp grade 6 is standard, right? With my mods which I've already listed above, should I go for 6 or 7? Yeah, you're right, vacuum not boost, sorry. I find both the technical issues and the language quite hard you see... The rpm stays quite even at idle, but not as even as it should be I guess. It "huffs and puffs" quite much at idle, and it's no difference between hot or cold engine. Sounds as your friends R32 had the same probs as mine. Will check the air regulator. One question though; where's the air regulator and how do I check it? In what way might the bov be the thief in this drama? What I've heard before the stock ECU would cope with the mods I've done already (pod filter, fmic, cat-back, ssqv)? Do you have other experiences? If it is what you say, then a new ECU is the only solution I guess..? How do I check the AFM? Already pulled out the AFM cable when engine at idle and it started to run really bad, almost died. That means the AFM works, at least a little bit? Can I clean the AFM somehow? Thanks for your feedback! Will have to bring a lot of swedish girls to compensate!

hehe, ok! That's all I need to hear, you just made me decide to move there Will need to start looking for jobs first. Thinking about Holden, where's the development site situated? The car runs with stock ECU. It's all stock except HKS pod, FMIC, HKS cat-back and HKS ssqv. It happens while cruising, anytime the boost is gentle and even. Decel or acceleration works just fine.

Hi all, Having problem with my R34 GTT: Engine goes very rough at low boost levels, for instance at idle speed and when revving without any gear engaged to about 2-3000rpm it “coughs” and seems to have very rough hiccups all the time, if you know what I mean…? At high boost levels it runs like a dream though, no problems at all to rev to the limiter and there’s plenty of power without delay or hesitation. So, wtf!? What do you reckon? Stuff on the car: pod filter, fmic and 3” cat-back. Also, thinking about leaving Sweden to move to Australia with my girlfriend. Do you recommend it?

Problem is that on my R34 there's some type of cooler (my guess is for the power steering oil) mounted in that area. It's not possible to move, the piping is hard, and it doesn't allow me to angle the original tank. I solved it yesterday by mounting a smaller tank inside the engine bay.

Hey guys, thanks for great DIY-guide. What did you do with the washer tank? Moved it, bought a smaller one for the original position or just throwed it away?

Hi all, as topic says, just installed a FMIC on my GTT. The piping doesnt allow the washer tank to be installed at it's original position. Where could/should I put it, and how? The vehicle inspection is getting nearer and I need to fix it as soon as possible. I would appreciate if you could help me. Thanks, Karl

I've also tested the Glassylite, ordered it from Australia through a friend to get it to Sweden. It really works well!

Thanks for the tips guys! Will go for a new front pipe and 3" cat and FMIC first, it seems to be the smartest way of doing, as you say. Boost controller will be the 2nd step. If I don't want to go for a Nistune (which is hard to find in Sweden) or a Apexi (which is so damn expensive), is the HKS FCD the best option to control air/fuel-mix?

Yeah, 12psi is what I was thinking as boost level. So you mean that I should get a downpipe and de-cat/sport-cat and a Nistune chip before I buy a boost controller? As I live in Sweden, and Skyline were never sold here, Nistune chip is quite hard to find. Can you recommend a web store that sell Nistune chips? After installing the chip a re-map of the ECU is needed, right?

Hello everyone, I have an R34 GTT with open air filter and 3" cat-back exhaust system. Thinking of adding a HKS EVC-S boost controller. Will that work just fine with original ECU or will the engine go dry (air/fuel mix)? What if I install a downpipe and race-cat as well? Will it still work fine? Thank you very much, Karl from Stockholm, Sweden

Hey all. I'm a typical 'Swede' looking for a good place to ask questions and find information, and I finally found it! And believe it or not, I'm not driving a Volvo station wagon Skylinesaustralia.com seems to simply kick *** with the swedish Skyline forum. And yeah, I drive a R34 GTT.