TurboDoseBro

Ok cool. Thanks guys, will try and also report. Yes, but HOWEVER as you mentioned in the earlier posts, weight is a big issue AS WELL AS gear ratios. I doubt a small car ratio is enough to transform these Fords and Holdens into drag machines considering they weigh roughly 1700kg tare.

No actually not yet, i have heard different stories about resetting the ECU: Unplug a terminal from battery and drain all electrical power from the car by stepping on the brake pedal, then reconnect and start. Apparently this doesn't fully reset the ECU so i didn't bother incase it just puts the car back in it's crappy running state. Use a paperclip to short circuit two connections on the inside fuse box for about 2 seconds and the check engine light will start flashing. This tutorial was done for an R33 and i can't find the connections for the R32 so i didn't try. Any suggestions?

Maybe it's different for non turbos then

UPDATE: Before changing the spark plugs and fuel filter the car seemed to be healing itself, after the change it seemed to run a bit funny for a while, then familiarized. It's almost like the ECU is adapting. Now it's running alright but when the engine is still cold it plays up a bit. Normal?

Hey guys, as the laws state (in VIC), you can either have a pod filter or intercooler, for those with R32s and a swapped R33 motor and chose to upgrade the latter, how did you go about using the stock airbox? Keeping in mind that the R33 airbox seems to not fit in properly as it runs different bolt holes, and R32 airbox is too close to the intake pipe of the new motor to fit the AFM. Thanks. Car is running a hot air intake right now (should really market these..not), using the stock R33 airbox without snorkel (recieving air from the fan blowing hot air from engine).

Yeah but you don't get those cool electronic gauges do you?

Definately using RB25DE loom and ECU and AFM. Thanks. Beginning to think that the AFM is the problem here, contributing factors: - Power and consistency through RPM varies a lot - Feels sluggish msot of the time like there isn't much power being produced through the air-fuel ratio (feels restricted), whereas others times it feels ok - Sometimes tapping on the throttle actually moderately a few times sees (feels) power gains coming back at the same speed, RPM, and gear (maybe the ECU is correcting it's AFR gradually) - Sometimes all throttle % feels roughly the same (maybe bad signal to ECU) Any thoughts or 2c?

Ouch at $17X

Ok, pics as said. Clamped fuel line is circled in red, mechanic says there is a problem with the fuel pressure, which is why an RB25DE specific fuel pump was recommended. Well, after driving it a bit more today, the power problem seems more of an air fuel ratio problem. The power is on and off sometimes and in different ranges of the RPM, sometimes a particular gear may feel 'alright' and sometimes just feels sluggish later on. May be because i bought a cheap 2nd hand AFM I'll try changing sparkies and maybe coils first and see how it goes...

Oh also another problem i read about it according to this problem is vacuum lines. (Too late to add it now) Yes but technichally (stock for stock), if a car with less torque and power could do it from a higher gear then it should at least be a plausible way of measuring the problem. Nevertheless i shall post up some pictures tonight of the engine bay and pictures of which hose he clamped. Please stay tuned

MAYBE you wouldn't throttle on 5th gear 50km/h in a turbo (single turbo) car, i probably wouldn't too because when the turbo isn't on boost the power torque is less than that of a non turbo. BUT, WOT seemed like a different story as the turbos begin to spool. (My experiences with RB20DET compared to other non turbos)

lol I know what an NA should feel like, this car barely has any top end or bottom end (Example: going at 50km/h at 5th gear, i floor it and it barely goes up (if at all), compared to my dad's 1999 Celica, 6th gear at 50km/h it still goes pretty good, RB25DE: 231Nm torque compared to 2ZZ-GE (Celica): 180Nm. Fuel pump felt ok (my narrow experiences of ok) when it had the other motor in. Mechanic showed me something about the fuel line pressure or something, he clamped one of the fuel lines softly and it seemed to run more responsive and more powerful, thus his recommendation as to find out if the RB20DET and RB25DE fuel pump was different.

Looks a bit like the Do-Luck bodykit too ey?

Hey guys, recently swapped an RB25DE S2 motor into the R32 GTS-T. Everything seems ok but sometimes at idle it plays up (clutch in or at neutral) and i have to tap on the accelerator to make it normal again, and the power and torque feels a lot weaker than it should. Motor is stock by the way. Service has been done recently (timing belt, belts, oil filter, oil, using water as coolant at the moment to flush). Now before everyone starts posting comments on 'search' etc i have, and these are the possible problems: -AAC valve is dirty (dunno) -AFM is worn (not likely i have cleaned it with AFM cleaner from Autobarn) -O2 sensor worn (not likely as the one on the R32 worked) (also there have been rumours the R32 O2 is different from the R33 O2) -Spark plugs (dunno) -Coil packs (dunno) If i do fix the idle problem, would that mean the power problem is fixed too? Mechanic says the lack of power may be from the different fuel pumps used in both R32 and R33. So is the R32 GTS-T RB20DET fuel pump different to one of an R33 RB25DE S2? Thanks, any input will be greatly appreciated

Yep, thanks everyone for the replies and contribution, turns out to be a S2!

Where would one buy these? Thanks.

ROFL relax Con, each to their own. Troy how do you find the light dispersion on the aftermarket faces? Do you possibly know which company or EBay seller it was bought off?

Hehe those gauges look alright, but adding customizations here and there will cost more than the Cyberstork ones. One of the main issues is that the light won't fully shine through numbers :S

From home to uni, there seems to be more abandoned places in north west Melbourne (eg. factories).

What about for non turbo cars, after some hard dosage should we still let the engine idle for a bit before turning it off?

What about open areas where you don't have to pay and are not in risk of hitting anyone?

Yeah but this isn't just a 50kg difference, it's a 150kg difference. And that's massive.

Yeah that's funny because my friend got an Impreza recently and according to Redbook (wouldn't put my life on it because look at the 0-100km/h time, obviously mistaken form a WRX, but it's rough figures) it's supposed to be 1150kg but his tare reads exactly 1000kg so that was an amazing variance. (Yes he has sunroof as well) http://www.redbook.com.au/used-cars/detail...id=12905877E689

Hey guys, as most of you may know, on the registration sticker will have the word 'Tare' on it, followed by the weight of the vehicle (Obviously rounded off to the nearest 10). Tare = The weight of a vehicle without cargo, passengers, etc. From my experience, when i was looking for R32s (GTS-T), i always checked the registered tare out of curiosity, and this ranged from 1280 to 1380. According to http://www.motortraders.net/imports/home.asp it should be 1320. My questions are, is this number actually accurate? and why do they range so much?

Damn, so $550 seems pretty fair afterall.