TurboDoseBro

Thing is I don't have any of those equipments let alone experience with them. I saw a post from a forum member who had welded a blob on the other side with the tie rod removed to get a proper grip on the damn thing. I would if I could...

Guys sorry it's me again. Tried using stilsons, can't get a proper grip on the mildly rounded nut as there isn't enough surface area. Tried hammering the 4 sided nut, both by itself, and tightening the loosened nut and trying. Still can't get it loose. Don't know how you guys make it sound so easy. Called up R E Customs and they wanted $160 to remove the HICAS even though I had the bar already I've tried so long already, it wouldn't be worth it if I had to pay that in the end... This is becoming SOS. Please help.

Damn you guys make it sound so good. How does it compare to Forza Motorsports 3? That game kill GT5 because of the tyre temperatures, engine swaps, drivetrain swaps, visual modifications, simulation damage etc. Just asking what you guys would prefer...

The thing is i'm not having troubles with loosening the bolt, i'm having trouble with the darn grip on the bolt. Have tried the spanner and hammer a few times but the whole unit just keeps turning guess i'll try some more. Will also try the stilson, thanks guys much appreciated.

GUYS WTF? Have you tried calling Sabbadin Automotive from the first post (95603440)? Some guy answers 1/2 dead. O_O

Hopefully it wasn't a repost but I found this very interesting. I've been using Castrol Edge since i got the car but I guess not anymore. May switch to Mobil 1. Would have loved to see Shell in that mix up as well. EDIT: Upon reading the comments, one mentions that the Motul 8100 X-cess is 5w-40 and it is true, making it unfair for Motul.

Yeah dude, buy one and then report back

If anyone else has suggestions please do say so. The car is still on ramps

That unfortunately won't do shit as you can see from the gap in the long drag race.

boostn1099: tried WD40 (RP7 to be exact). Didn't need breaker bar to crack the first one so I don't think it's necessary. I still bit the dust lol. Panko: Sure bro, when are you usually free? This won't go unrewarded. Also yeah i've been using 2 shifters then...trying...

I think the Veyron should have stripped its interior too.

Hey mate thanks for being the first to reply. I'm located in Dandenong area. Very close to giving up it's taking all my time. I've tried those metal vice grips ( http://vetquip.com/products/Orthopaedic%20...Grip%2020cm.gif ) + a spanner to hold it in place since it's kinda rounded off. Too slippery as well. The HICAS unit has been remounted with the 2 bolts so i didn't need to hold it. When people say shifter, does that mean a spanner?

Guys i've been trying for 3 days getting the HICAS system off for the replacement of the ISC HICAS lock bar. I've managed to crack one side of the tie rods (with the square nut) and the other one is damn impossible. I've tried using a spanner to hold down the flat parts of the little metal rod inside the HICAS but it's not strong enough and i'm slowly rounding it. Anyone got tips and tricks to share please?

Anyone? Good chance to make quick cash.

Does the Nismo 2 way fit R32 GTS-T? And is it still in working order?

Was on EBay searching for some stuff and came across this: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/15BHP-Chip-Nissan-M...=item2558e7f69e Anyone got any insight? Most chances are it's a fraud like that tornado fuel saver crap.

Hey guys, just chasing an R32 headlight rubber, the one that goes behind the low beams for H1. Just chasing 1 unless you must sell the whole set. If you have it we can work something out. Thanks. Here's a pic to help:

Nice and clean! Camber looks awesome too.

Also what about the panels that won't line up again. Some accidented cars have massive gaps in their bumpers etc that won't line up because the brackets were crushed or broken.

I've also heard this. Just incase, I do tend to stay away from accidented cars. Apparently it's about a crushed frame that will never have the same rigidity as an uncrushed one.

So what i'm also picking up from the responses are that the RB26DETT is only ~40kg heavier than the RB20DET? lol (50kg minus 10kg to not include bigger brakes and intercooler)

As title. For example, the R32 GTR would be weighing in at 1500kg where as the R32 GTS-T would be around the 1300kg mark. What exactly makes it heavier? If it is the AWD system, if you took it out would you get roughly the same weight minus the engine differences?

You can just remove the screw and take it out. The annoying needle flutter is still there though. If anyone knows how to get rid of it please let me know

Nah i'm gonna go with full comprehensive. Just cars lets you have any amount of legal mods that doesn't bump up your premium or excess. Quoted about 2 days ago. Not worth risking the car being stolen or crashed without knowing.

I will be the few that come out of the closet and say that my dad paid for both my car, my insurance, and registration. I pay for everything else. Despite the negative comments that will probably follow, I don't really mind this (and am thankful for it) because the fact is that I wouldn't mind doing the same for my kids when they grow up. We were all raised differently. That being said I do plan to start paying for my insurance and registration next year as I have got a job now.