TurboDoseBro

Bump! Price drop to $80 excluding delivery. Listed $90 elsewhere! Get it while it lasts!

Check both fuse boxes, then check globes, then if something isn't plugged in inside the dash.

Also 2nd Option Audio. They are ~150 Westall Road, Clayton South. They also have alarms ready to install there. For a Mongoose M80 you're looking at $420.

Hey guys, selling my green label AFM from my R32 as it had an engine swap to an R33 a while ago. Was laying around for a while, no idea why I didn't list it to sell earlier. Now i need the money so here I am, selling everything i have lol. This item is 100% working. It came off a mint R32 with roughly 110k kms on the clock at the time I took the AFM out. Mesh on both sides VERY clean and 100% in tact. I could even claim this item to be in immaculate condition. Looking for $90 AUD Located in south east Melbourne if you want pick up. Will post at buyer's expense. Mobile: 0433543344 (call/text anytime) E-mail: mr.victorlao@hotmail.com (checked at least once a day) Thanks for looking.

R32 with R33 S2 NA engine, stock except 2.5" cat back exhaust. 10.23L/100km. 1/2 city driving, 1/2 freeway driving. Occasional flooring. Not bad ey?

Wow, that sounds easy, wonder why nobody else that i know of is doing it?

Yes, but as the exhaust diameter told me, depending on how much power you make or mods, a bigger exhaust diameter will push the powerband higher but thinner so a compromise is a must. Also with the lack of back pressure, the throttle feel was on or off which I don't think is good for racing. EDIT: There was a VERY noticeable difference in power with 75% throttle and 100%.

Because it hasn't been mentioned before and a lot of people recommended it to me, i will put out that you could get an oval muffler as they flow good and keep the sound down.

If there was 2.75" i'd definately get that. 2.5" has very linear power from low to high. Gives more precise throttle adjustment/levels too. Revs faster or more responsive. Lacks the kick in power and i'm guessing max power compared to 3" by feel. 3" is pretty empty down low but is a blast at high rpm (5k and over) like VTEC just kicked in yo. Lack of back pressure makes the throttle feel weak at low RPM and not very precise. Feels like it has more top end power than 2.5". This is from a guy who just got his cat back changed today.

10mm x ~50mm

So if you speed in pairs or more you can't be fined? lol

lol I mean those cam gears. Also don't forget lightweight wheel lug nuts LOL

Try AFM, usually cars don't wanna rev if AFM is faulty. Probably stalled the engine from the inability to read air flow or something.

Well then, suggestions of my own: Reduce unsprung weight - Lightweight pulleys - Lightweight flywheel - Lightweight clutch - Balanced crankshaft - Lightweight wheels - Lightweight tyres - CF driveshaft - Lightweight drive shafts - Lightweight cams - Lightweight brakes Why? because not only will it lighten your car up and increase acceleration, it works well for dyno figures as you are using more % of the raw combustions from the engine. Should be coupled with decent power mods. By the way this is just a theory lol

You'll find plenty of DIYs and maintenance related threads in the 'maintenance' or 'tutorials' section. I'm running stock rims, because i don't make big power. So no need to overdo.

lol Sounds almost like you bought a car wihtout knowing what it is. Browse around the forums first and collect data, then specify with questions. Works for me anyways

I have same problem but changing cat back tomorrow. Refer to past replies and work from there. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ca...32-t330747.html

Since you're quite new i suggest reading and doing everything in the 'how to get more power out of NA' thread and then add to it lol.

LOLOL. Reminds me of the liquor store videos quite a while back.

Nice, looked liek a blast. Would have loved to be there but SAUVIC membership isn't top priority right now, but still up there somewhere EDIT: By the looks of things i would have been left behind anyways.

Well thanks for the help. Much appreciated. After measuring and such, it was possible my 6" speakers didn't have to touch the inward curve of door trim, or any of it. So might just have to redo the templates but this time i'll customize both the hole position and screw holes (sounds bad, for the dirty mofos) to make sure everything fits. Will report back when done (may take a while).

Lots of commotion, not many pics lol.

Well, i was measuring and all yesterday. My speaker didn't actually fit in the speaker door hole (hole was cut too high i guess), the top bit of the new speaker was interfereing with the door skin cave in (as it added extra mm). Measured the gap in the cave in and it was roughly 9mm, so the 12mm would've been hitting/touching the door skins anyways. I actually have screws that are too long lol. Yes I do have 'active speakers' and yes the plastic OEM moulds look exactly the same.

Well actually upon further investigation, the OEM plastic template looks identical to predator's. However, i measured the inside gap where the speaker/template is hitting the door skin and it seems to be about ~9mm space inside. That's why the 12mm didn't work. My speakers were also +9mm high ontop of the 12mm MDF.

Should be AFM. I noticed when i unplugged the AFM and rev my car, it won't want to go past 3000-4000 RPM and makes a crackly sound. Plug it back in and it was fine. Definately get it checked first.