UWAM

Looks to me a lot like they didn't match the gear ratios to the downforce/drag setup. Seems like much too tall a seventh gear in Lewis's car. Proabably not worth 0.6s though. Jensons lateral G plot looks a little better as well. For anyone wondering, this is how I'm interpreting the data: Top line - RPM Next one down, crosses with RPM - Lateral G's Dotted line - Time delta (written on it) Square wave one - Not sure?? Bottom - Throttle position and brake pressure overlaid.

These are awesome for certain things, such as bodywork etc that comes on and off fairly often. Definitely wouldn't use them on parts that are excessively heavy or may take a hit, like a floor or undertray though. Major negative in my opinion is that they aren't very tolerant of misalignment. If you want them to much locating of the part, there are better options.

Can't see much of a difference in the data, wasn't much of a test though. We really need to do a proper back to back test, see what affect they have. CFD says they help, so be good to do some verification of that as well. Bit of a moot point as well, I would bet money there's going to be a rule this year saying "UWA's fairings are not allowed" or something to that effect.

Sure is. http://motorsport.mech.uwa.edu.au/fileadmin/media/gallery/2011/FSAE-A/2011.12.18/website-45.jpg

I believe so. You'd have to check with the organisors about the sup regs and entry rules, but it would be fine. I've driven in one event and been to a few, and there's a wide range of cars there, from streeters to purpose built machines. If the car's running now, I'd advise getting it on a track and get a few kays seat time in it, before you go with the engine build. Unless the engine builds a higher priority for you than doing track events. There's usually plenty of time to be made in driver ability and car setup before power is needed. (Hints, get best tyres you can, use some sort of temperature reader to get an idea of pressures and cambers, stiffer springs/bars are not always better, more damping is not always better)

http://www.speedeventseries.com/ Fairly easy and cheap way to drive fast.

Location?

How does the car handle at the moment? Does it feel soft/firm, slide lots or take a steady state corner set easy, good response or sloppy feel? How does it respond to whatever bumps/kerbs there are? What's the balance (over/understeer) like?

We've used a product called fire sleeve with good success.

Wouldn't work, for the reasons mentioned before. I usually only deal with NA engines, but I want to add a couple of things to think about. First, mass flow rate. The idea does not increase the mass flow rate through the engine (directly anyway, beyond a greater pressure differential during valve overlap, and possibly slightly better turbo performance, both of which would be tiny). The mass flow rate of the air going into the engine governs how much air (thus fuel) there is to combust, and so how much power you make. It's why we strap turbos and superchargers to our cars. Also, mass flow rate is a big factor in how much work your compressor does. Two, backpressure. Backpressure is undesirable, but it is a result of something that is needed, which is exhaust velocity. Fast flow exhaust gases help scavenging and VE, and prevent things like reversion. It's the reason why cars don't just run 6" exhausts, or race engines with no exhaust at all.

You need to replace your muffler bearing. http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=10

They wave flags when a car stalls on the grid. Problem with that, is that the driver is so busy that they are unlikely to see them being waved. Same issue would apply to a light in the cockpit. There was an accident at nightmasters at the beginning of the year, that was pretty much the exact same circumstances. Though not quite as dramatic (no fireball).

It would make them quite a lot faster actually.

What are your wheel alignment figures? Do you have wheels with different sizes/offset than stock? How much have you lowered it? What type of springs/shocks?

Do you mean shot peened? It's a technique used to improve the fatigue strength of parts, and as above, unrelated to compression. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shot_peening

There are tutorials included. TAFE is overkill unless you are going to be using it professionally and need to know different standards. Do the tutorials and just mess around drawing random things and you'll learn enough to make up some fairly detailed parts.

Carbon fibre is a brittle material, so in a crash, instead of crumpling and absorbing energy like a metal bonnet, it is likely to shatter and send sharp shards though the windscreen and your body. Something to think about.

Someone driving a car 100 km/h down the freeway with both front wheels oscillating from side to side, as though they'd just put the wheel nuts 2 threads deep on the studs, and the wheel was free to move as it pleases, just not fall off.

ABS is generally not preferable in a racecar situation, because racecars get into situations not common to road cars, and any decent driver should not need ABS anyway. One easy example is a spin where you want to lock the wheels up, I've head of times when people with ABS equipped cars have lost all braking power because the ABS system was overwhelmed. There's a reason why the Porsche GT3RS and Noble M600 don't come with ABS.

That's right, carbon fibre is a very brittle material.

The sway bar resists the inside wheel attempting to move relative to the outside. So the load on the inside tyre is whatever it normally is, plus the torsional force from the sway bar.

Got a multimeter? Check the battery itself. If the wires from the turbo timer are getting too hot, it would lower the reading.

Anyone with an R34 that has done this and felt a difference, before you did the mod, did you see the boost change at 4500 rpm? Using the stock gauge, once I hit max boost around 2800, it doesn't change until the redline.

I think he meant less weight as the car goes around a corner. Cheers for the replies. So is it possible to get the stock shockies rebuilt? Can't really afford a full set of coilovers at the moment, though if all else fails I might have to.

Update on this: I realised the traction control is kicking in a bit earlier than it should, round a right hand corner, as well as the vibration. So I checked out the right rear setup, and the shock is leaking. It has significantly less damping on that corner than the other side. So the question is, would a lack of damping on one wheel cause a vibration when that wheel is unloaded? I'm thinking yes. Cheers