Tyral

Thanks guys! I'm pretty confident now it's what FLUID said, because the paint job is super-shit, cheers for this guys!

Hey guys, just noticed that my S13's body lines have been shaved - and it's starting to annoy me. The cars going in for a paint in the coming weeks and I was wondering if it's possible to have the lines put back in by a panel beater? The only other way I can think of getting them back is replacing the front fenders, doors and getting a widebody rear. It's either that or a new shell (not sure if the lines mean THAT much to me haha). Cheers for your help guys.

At first I was like "man that's pretty over kill" but then when he tried to escape I felt it wasn't enough haha.

Alternator's dead. Got stranded for 2 hours on the motorway, good old whale of a car drew too much power from the AA guys' jumper pack to make the drive home. I've got another RB25DET lying in the garage which I could pillage the alternator from, only trouble is that that motor has done 289,000K. Either that or a rebuild.

Sweet I'll give it a look when I get the car back. Also when I was on the way to the tyre place the car started to jerk and then just cut out, wouldn't turn over after that for about 5mins. But after the break it went sweet again? Bloody odd. I'm no auto elec (obviously haha) but I have a hunch it could be the positive terminal on the starter? A friend was putting the top bolt from the gearbox on and arced the terminal to the chassis, or something to that effect. When I bought the motor the plastic cap on the lower harness for the start was broken off so perhaps it's arcing randomly. Thanks for you input boys, you've been a great help.

Hey guys bit of an update, battery has 340CCA (+- a few) and measures 12V stationary, when the cars idling it measures 10.XXV - is this expected? Mad are you able to give me any details on checking my alternator? I have a dmm. Cheers for the help fellas. Ehh also I was at BP putting air in the tyres while idling and it just randomly shut off but all electrics were still up. Cranked over first pop after that so I'm lost.

Here's an example of the part of the loom where the plug wires change colour: It's not my photo, but notice how there is no brown or white wires? For some reason nissan decides to change them as soon as they join the plugs on the gearbox. The information I need is what colour they become. Sorry if I'm confusing you guys it just seems hard to articulate.

Hey guys just finalizing my auto to manual swap and I'm onto the wiring. I've spent a fair amount of time searching and haven't really found what I need (either that or I'm just slow). I'm trying to keep the loom stock as possible ie. wrapped in that spiroflex shit so I'm just modifying the enginebay plug-end. This has made it a bit harder for me because all the tutorials and posts refer to the plug wiring colours and not the output end ones since for some reason nissan decides to change them as soon as they enter the plugs, I've attached two photos to give you an idea of my dilemma . Auto plug I'm mating to. If I understand it correctly: Black = Ground White = Neutral Green = Reverse But I'm not sure which wires to connect them to on the manual plug though? Manual plug I'm mating from (the two cut wires are the speedo ones) Any help would be greatly appreciated, cheers guys!

O snap. A mate wanted to swap the batteries around and said "my car runs fine with the battery unplugged"... well then.

Hey guys recently put a S2 25DET in my S1 R33 and put the car back together after the previous bloke took it apart. Anyway I took it out for a drive and she runs sweet but if I take the positive lead off of the battery while the car is running it shuts off, also the battery drains bloody quickly. Any diagnosis? Cheers guys.

What dip are you referring to? And are you talking about painting it black black, or tinting it like what people do with their 'uras style' silvia lights?

Hey guys one of my tail lights recently cracked and now dust and water have gotten in so I'm in the market for a replacement. Since my car is a Series 1 there's also the option of going Series 2 but I'm not a fan of the fact that the lights are raised and stick out , but I must admit the surround matching the car is quite appealing. I was thinking about staying S1 lights but going S2 center garnish because the S K Y L I N E lettering paint is peeling off of mine, has anyone tried/seen this combination? Thanks in advance gents, opinions etc. welcome.

I read that the AWD block has both bolt patterns unlike the RWD which only has 1? Here's an example of a thread I found here.

Hey guys I've been in the market for a replacement engine for my R33 and the Neo looks like a good option over the S2 but the additional cost is the only thing prohibiting me jumping on it. I'm not sure if it's the same in Australia but here in New Zealand RB25DET Neo AWD's it seems are sometimes cheaper than both their S1/2/Neo RWD counterparts. Now this choice for a Neo is obviously for the easy HP gains it boasts over the S1 & 2, so what I'm really curious about is there any difference between the AWD & RWD motors? Searching has shown that the RWD sump will bolt on fine to the AWD block but are there any hidden differences I'm not aware of like loom, internals etc? Because I have a spare RB25DET S2 engine (seized) in addition to the one I am removing, lying on my garage floor which I could use for the sump (or any extra parts if need be). Thanks in advance for your help. Feel free to ask any questions!

Ah why does it have to be this way Guess I better break open my piggy bank.

Hey I'm currently attempting to finish a manual conversion in my R33 and I'm at the point where I've removed the brake box. The dodgy mechanic that sourced all the parts and left this conversion incomplete, only gave me the peddle and no box, so now I have to put the manual peddle into the auto box. I'm stuck with removing the pin from the box, any tips would be lovely.

Thanks for the response, R33 GTST S1.

Hey guys just put an engine back together and had parts from a second one (speculated Series 2) scattered amongst the collection. Ended up with two different coil packs and haven't been able to find any identifiers between to two apart from the tiny carbon(?) cylinders attached to the springs and none on the other set. I also ask this because I hear they are incompatible with each other. Also they have part numbers that differ: 22433 60U02 22433 60U01 Thanks in advance.

There may just be a little slack in the cable from adjusting for whatever reason, but imo (I am by no means an expert) the frontal length of the car has changed which indeed may be due to damage since the slack might be caused by compression from ie. an accident closing the distance from the front to the cabin. Did you inspect the chassis rail or the like and were the body lines perfectly straight?

Pure porn mate, amazing job!

Can we get any more details on the swap? I've been lusting over such a conversion for months!

I'm also curious about this!

Amazing.

A mate pulled the line off the nipple to the injectors and it pissed out with petrol, which I assume means they're indeed getting fuel since they were empty when I started it up? But I'll give that a jam too.

Hey guys, a little back-story on this one: R33 RB25DET Series 2 Engine. Engine ran on 5 cylinders, it was removed. Car was due to receive a manual conversion. Sat without and engine for at least 9 months. Me and a friend put the engine back in (what we assume to be correctly). We attempted to finish the manual conversion, gearbox bolted up ect. although as of now loom wise we have only looped the inhibitor switch. Upon turning the key the starter motor goes off and we see smoke coming out the exhaust and top of the cam cover nozzle things but the engine refuses to fire. Things to note: The car did run before the engine was removed. Fuel is entering the lines onto the rail. Coil packs work, we tested to see if the spark plugs sparked (they did). Automatic locator (I think of is the name?) has yet to be replaced with a spigot bush, our aim isn't to make the car actually move we just want to see if the engine goes. The well around the spark plugs and the tips of them were covered in oil, this was the case before we put the engine back in. I am aware that could be a wide variety of things as there are many variables to what is wrong, any suggestions and tips would be great! Feel free to ask for photos of the engine bay if need be or any questions regarding the car.