ScreamerNewbie

i guess the difference is when ya on a track you change the oil that regularly anyways where as a street car not really

no way thats water condensation effecting the oil like that, the water and fuel can generally be seen sitting ontop of the oil when drained. fair call, not sure how the time attack fellas do it, but even if you have windage trays, baffles, correct breather setups and a correctly vented sump and all the rest and you still manage to EMPTY a sump? theres a bigger issue to your setup than draining a catch can back to the pan.. IMO obviously everyone has their own opinions, i am showing people why i wouldnt do it, they can chose for themselves.

seeing as most engines only breathe heavy under hard load or high rpm ,i would think the majority of it is blown into the catch can. either way just posting my thoughts on why i dont think it should go back to the sump. what would be the benefit of it going back to the sump?

Okay so here, this is my can and cam cover lines after a full weekend of racewars, 400m 800m and 1000m of flat out high rpm, car took a hammering all w.e, i drained under 50ml out of my tank. which showed, a very minor amount of water (from condensation) sitting on top of oil which you can see below has been effected by ethanol. you can even SMELL the ethanol in the catch tank. (i also drained my sump to find 8L of perfect quality oil which i put back in the car). that oil is the penrite 10 tenths racing oil which is compatible for alcohol and ethanol fuel, but you can clearly see the oil has been badly effected by the ethanol. i dont know, what do i care if you decide its a good idea to drain you shit back to your sump, doesnt effect me, but why? what is the point in draining a couple ml or a couple hundred ml??? at most if its really bad?? back to your sump? whats the point? what do you get out of that? nothing. so why even risk it?

no man, it "magically" changes properties when it leaks past the rings into the combustion chamber where the enthanol/alcohol is forced into also. ill find the pics and show you the shit that comes from a catch tank when ethanol as effected it.

do not dump the shit from your catch can back to the sump, theres a reason it its called a puke tank (drag racing terms) most importantly, if you run e85 or any kind of alcohol fuel, it literally breaks down oils, the shit that ends up in your tank its not pretty. sure vent the sump, but from the intake side, to the TOP of your catch can. dont drain it back to the tank. my engine (25/30) loved high oil pressure, 8L sump, baffled, 7500rpm, 2.5L accusump, 1.2mm restrictors, vct blocked, drilled out oil drains in block and head, -12 rear head drain (to ex side) 2X -12 sump vents to catch can (intake side), baffled cam covers with 2X-12 to baffled catch can, all vented to atmosphere. use to spit hardly any thing, even after a full w.e or thrashing at power cruise or racewars etc.

run a -3, you can buy a restrictor that go in the end of the dash fitting, speed flow sell them. I used 1.5mm I think from memory on a 25 head

I used -3 on my 25/30 600rwhp combo no worries

from my experience you can put the head "drain" as you called it, Teed into the 2 turbo drains and all drain back to the block ASLONG as you let the intake side of the sump breathe well! I ran this setup on my DOHC single turb 30 and never had an oil issue flogging its guts out. 2x -12 sump breathers intake side 1x -12 head drain to ex side of block with -10 turbo drain teed into it 2x -12 cam cover lines both sump breathers and cam covers ran to the baffled and vented catch can, NO return line to sump (e85) 6.5L sump 2L accusump 1.3mm restrictor and 1 blank tomei oil pump relief capped to 110psi by 5000rpm. do what you wish with my info, tell me im wrong, tell me im right, it is a very reliable setup.

A genuine rule of thumb is air/oil to flow a minimum of 180deg. With my catch can i did something similar to the pic below (sorry phone drawing haha). Basically air/oil comes in and hits a flat plate, has to run down then back up through steelwool then back down (2x180deg now) then back up through steel wool.=3x180 in total and 2x separate steel wool sections. The baffle that runs right to the bottom i had a couple holes so it could all drain out (not big as didnt plan on draining to sump)

Yeah dusnt look good. In saying that this looks very similar to the oil that comes out of the drag car i crew on (top alcohol funny car) and we run it again and again for around 5 passes. Though we also change bearings more than our undies so again ill let u be the judge. I havent had it tested, as i said it dusnt look the best and with auch a large sump (9L oil total) i decided no need for me to return it anyway. I did 1000kms run in.

Well this is the kinda stuff ya catch can catches on a fresh engine after 1 weekend at racewars (1000m drag racing) with e85, my setup was -12 from each baffled cam cover to cams approved catch can, 2x -12 sump breathers from Intake side of sump above oil to catch can. All inputs to catch can are at the same height, no drain back. Catch can is very well baffled and vented Ill let u decided if you wish to drain the cc back to the sump

Hi guys any feedback on how this went would be great, i am currently looking into this setup, im assuming there is no kits as yet?

Sorry to bring up the dead but is the r33 bash plate still forsale?

that sump setup is basically exactly the same as mine and as FATZ said, it works mint

wouldn't mind seeing where you drilled and tapped the holes. how do you know the spot you've done it in is safe?

I have a 600hp 25/30 driftcar, about to turn it up a bit for racewars next yr, hoping to go 800rwhp, but on current set up its running 6.5L trapdoor extended sump, 2L accusump, 2 sump breathers. 2x1.2mm restrictors, blocked vct feed, enlarged oil drains, decent vented catch can. tomei oil pump. all up with the oil cooler and accusump it holds around 9.5L. the only time ive ever had quite an oil puke was when I over filled the sump, other than that, its usually pretty clean apart from the ethanol. has quite a high oil pressure too, sits around 80psi once warm at 2000rpm hits relief spring pressure (110psi) around 4000rpm. haven't had any issues.

yeah surely not the best I have 2x -12 on the highest point of my sump, and iv only had the issue of puking when I over fill my sump. seeing as I run e85 I don't drain mine back to sump either would be interesting to know how else you could get the vents higher. next time ill just go drysump, LESS HASTLE!!

I wanted to run 0deg rear camber with 265 rears at around that height, therefore 38 were the go, but decided later to flair, will now look into a 10+0 or there abouts with a 245

just a roll front and rear. of course front guard liners r gone also

ill be going much fatter soon 18X10+0 all round with flared guards

don't run +38 on fronts, will hit brake calipers I run 18X10+18 on fronts no dramas with approx. 3 deg, 18X10+38 rear with 0 deg, both 235/40

did you ever go lower viscosity? or didn't wana due to risk to the bearings?

hey all, find any solutions to these 25/30 high oil pressure issues?? my freshly built forged rb25/30 is showing over 100PSI on my autometer mechanical gauge, oil features include: tomei oil pump 2X1/3mm restrictors -12 rear head drain 2X-12 sump breathers 2X-12 cam cover breathers grub screwed VCT feed in head VCT sensor removed and capped drilled out oil drains in block 2L accusump 5.5L sump 19row mocal cooler GREX oil thermostat and oil filter relocation with ryco z145a filter on penrite running in oil 15w40 it was showing high oil pressure over 100psi on cold start then down to 90 once warm. a tap of the revs to 2500rpm and it went to over 100psi again (gauge only goes to 100psi). after 250kms the oil was drained and a penrite 10w40racing synthetic was put in. once again on cold start over 100psi but once warm it dropped to 80/85psi or there abouts at idle and only went over 100 after 3000rpm I was thinking of going a lighter viscosity maybe a 5w30synthetic or something? I only use penrite. could anyone recommend anything?? or does anything look out of place? im a little worried. I think im going to get a larger scale mechanical gauge to see where there press really sits after 100psi.. I previously had a rb25 pump with billet gears and was showing the same signs any help would be HUUUUUGELY appreciated im really stumped and worried. Cheers Corey

hey guys i have this exact clutch, how did you guys fix this issue?? the tuner is finding that itl go into gear with alot of force, and foot to the floor. but its REALLY not nice! resleeve the slave extend the pivot point longer bearing holder which one fixes the issue??? any further info on you you got it to work would be great!!!!!