AlexanderWilde

that would be a Nismo Rear Spoiler http://nissanraceshop.com/shop/nismo-rear-spoiler-skyline-350gt-2dr-infiniti-g35-coupe/#prettyPhoto

my missus ran it on 91 with E10 while i was overseas for a week and when i got back and drove it i could feel the engine jittery. feels like incomplete burn / running lean and the car was very underpowered, even the gear shifts seemed lazy. so yes it can run it but it will kill your engine in the long run as the mapping and engine fuel management is intended for ron 95 or 98 i tend to fill up usually when it gets half way and il alternate sometimes 95 sometimes 98 and it runs smooth, no noises, quick response and unexpected surprises.

Granted i have at a younger age pushed the pedal a little more than needed at the lights or left it creep up a couple of km over but there is a difference in being cheeky once in a while and doing absolutely idiotic things on the road. i agree name and shame. if they just left the lights and revved the engine a bit then hey they acting like a kid but if they endanger others and make a bad name for us as well as increase the insurance costs following accidents due to they're stupidity then by all means give them a kick up the proverbial a$$

i wouldn't risk it as the s15's are cop magnets and if they see a different engine they will ask for you to get it checked by a mechanic that does blue slips (identity check ) to make sure the parts aren't from a stolen and chopped car go and find a mechanic that does blue slips or a customs shop and ask them what you need to do. most will give you the steps you need to follow but prettysure you need an engineer's certificate and a check from a blue slip approved mechanic

I assume your around parramatta so i say go to another workshop with good reputation and have them check it. in ur area id send you to Team K Kustoms. and ask for Marcus. he's the owner and he works on the cars himself. top bloke and keeps costs as low as he can. he fixed my radiator and even found a cheap one for me rather than go oem and drain your budget. and called me before ordering anything to make sure i was ok with costs As for the price of rotors i know OEM will be double if not tripple of normal DBA rotors. so the new mechanic may just order oem or high grade just cus he doesan't know you or wants to make some extra $$$$ Team K Kustoms is on 23-25 Cowper St, Granville NSW 2142 Tel: 9682 5498 And like i said ask for Marcus and explain to him what happened and ask him to have a look over it .

Give the guys from Waitara Smash Repairs Phone:(02) 9489 7777 - Address: 5 Romsey St, Waitara NSW 2077 They fixed my old Pulsar and the paint work was top notch and they done it cheaper than any other place i asked. generally the ones that quote $2000 will only mask over trims and leave the glass in and paint right up to the edge so allot of those cheaper options wont turn out as professional looking as you expect. the more expensive ones will usually be cus they change stuff like the plastic at the window on the outside and rubbers and all of that stuff and replace it with new one. the guys from Waitara did it proper and for only 2k full respray. Go in and ask them if you can have a look at one of their recent jobs that is in the shop to get an idea.

Anything is possibly when its custom made. by the way that looks it has parts custom fabricated for that purpose.

i accepted the mistake and payd the fine and took the demerit points even tho i think its unfair i have accepted my mistake and the repercussions im only asking for leniency on the suspension as i need the license for work and considering i wassant doing 100 on a 60km residential road but rather coming off the motorway where the speed is 100 im hoping the judge will understand i wassant honing or acting like a retard but just made the mistake of not slowing down prior to the speed change

you put 3 of the 4 options the gtr option bumper so you clearly like the look and nothing wrong with it, i myself like the look so i say go for the 3rd one. have the bonet match paint no carbon otherwise it will look to much Rice and have the paint shop if they can blend in the edges of the lights on the bumper with the bumper so it removes those dreadful lines. check the difference in the pictures on the red one (no lines coming down from the lights). they may have to putty them out

Greenslip = 3rd party compulsory insurance ( this is minimum insurance that is required every time you renew the registration ) if yearly every year Pink slip ( is a safety check done by a qualified mechanic every time the registration is renewed) Blue slip ( is a safety check that is more detailed than the pink slip as it is done when the car has not been registered in the last 3 months , if the car is an import or transfer from another state, Basicaly its a pink slip that is more full on as the car would be unregistered and it needs to be deemed safe for roads registration depends on the model, type , weight of the car so the NSW RTA (roads and trafic authority ) or as they are now known the RMS (Roads and Maritime Services) will have a record of all those details and together with the blue slip or pink will calculate a registration fee to transfer registration you will need to pay a fee at the RTA (RMS) all these details should be on the RTA website http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/registration/index.html PS once the registration expired you will need to pay for Green slip again and then get a pink slip form a Mechanic registered on the NSW system and finaly re register it at the RTA (you may need an address here stating that you live in NSW)

there are 2 things that can be appealed / contested 1 the infringement itself and 2 the license suspension i accepted the infringement as at fault but plan to appeal the suspension. You can appeal to the Local Court against a suspension if you are suspended in one of these ways: you are a learner or provisional license holder and you get too many demerit points. for speeding in excess of 30 km/hr over the speed limit for speeding in excess of 45 km/hr over the speed limit on the spot by a police officer. so fingers crossed the judge will see that the punishment does not fit the crime as i was not just speeding in a residential road at high range speeds but rather didn't slow down fast enough coming of from the freeway where that speed is normal . more so when the off ramp is long, has no residential or pedestrian access and i need the license for work Lucky day is the 13th in a week from now so i guess il see what happens il have character references as well as a letter from employer stating the need for my license for work

a harsh reminder for all of us to be extra careful out there. RIP

Planing to appeal the suspension for those that are in similar position or want to know about what to do just got the sake of knowing here is the link for the process: http://www.lawassist.lawaccess.nsw.gov.au/lawassist/lawassist_fines/lawassist_licence_fine/lawassist_appealingsuspension_fine.html#2

That is correct i know that by Law the Speed devices have a 3Km error range so the speed 107 recorded would be marked as 104 in a 60km road that is 44Km so it falls in the 30km and over but under 45km like i said im not disputing that i was speeding and i made a mistake i own up to that. the part that bothers me is im going to be without a license for 3 months and this affects my business and main income. if i would have acted recklessness and stupid and sped or hooned on a normal residential Rd that was 60 with that speed then i can understand the 3 month punishment but considering the circumstances i think that 3 months suspension is a bit harsh

my biggest concern is if i challenge it or more like plead guilty but request to still have my license im afraid the judge may say well u were over 45KM and push it to 6 months

funny thing is i just checked Google maps and that offramp used to be 80Km....Makes me think the 60km change may have been for that exact reason ( fundraising ) bit disheartening here is the location : http://goo.gl/maps/vn6vb the road is long as well goes for almost 1Km

i stand corrected its actually the Off ramp at Reservoir Rd the one just after the McDonald's and service-station

Hi everyone I come for some advice on if I should i challenge a 3Month license Suspension Please be gentle and take in consideration all details of this before slamming me for doing the wrong thing. So last month I was coming from a gig I did late at night 1am driving on the M4 eastbound and took the off ramp at Prospect Hwy towards Blacktown. After the turn I get pulled over and was fined for a recorded speed of 107 on a 60Km road. turns out the Off-ramp is 60 even though the freeway is 100 I clearly did not slow down fast enough coming off the freeway To be honest it was stupid of me not slowing down before the off ramp but everyone was flying past so I didn’t pay it much attention I started slowing down after the sign change to 60. The Cops were hiding somewhere in the bushes or on the overpass that is above the ramp. For those that don’t know the off ramp it goes downhill not up so the speed change from 100 to 60 has to be done in a fairly small amount of space and with no aid from gravity which is why I assume the cops were there. Easy pickings from people like me that didn’t pay attention I was polite and I told the cop I didn’t even notice the 60Km sign and I apologize for the mistake. The Officer was not rude but acted very Transactional about the whole incident. Got license, printed ticket and that’s it. now by the speed recorded it would be 47km over but the officer only marked ticket at 30km over so I assume he felt bad about the fact I did make a mistake and was not honing or street racing but rather just coming off from the freeway and didn’t slow down fast enough I have paid the $800 fine and copped the 5 demerit points. But on top of that since it was 30km over I will have my license suspended for 3 months. Should I challenge this in court or just cop it? By that I mean challenge the suspension not the fine. Some extra history : I cannot request section 10 as I have 2 previous speeding tickets one 3 years ago the other 2 years ago both very small tickets I think one was 5km and one was 7 km over I need to drive for work as I run my own business taking photos and recordings of events and to be frank I find the mistake I did not fair to be compared to people doing that speed on a normal 60km road honing

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/revesby/wrecking/nissan-skyline-v35-wrecking-engine-gearbox-body-parts-coupe-4dr/324071031 give them a call and see if they can remove the part and ship it. it will most likely come cheaper than a new one

Did You Bed in the new pads in ( http://www.dba.com.au/tech-article-t017-basic-initial-brake-bed-in-street/ ) ? i recommend opening them up and checking the pads for uneven wear as one of them may be placed incorrectly at the back of the pad there should be metalic shims that are meant to stop that noise if they are incorrectly placed or touching another component like the rotor it will make noise finaly some materials will make noise nomatter what so either look at the pads as the problem or maybe try adding some thermal grease in the back of the pad where it connects to the caliper to it has propper contact with the brake caliper (note if ur unsure get a mechanic to do this cus you dont want grease on your discs or the front of the pads where it's meant to stop ) the grease is meant to stop vibration between the pad and caliper

i would have if it was black and the wing was NISMO one. you might want to post a picture of it so people can see what it looks like

I use Mobil 5-30 and my car has 150,000Km on ODO. change the oil every 5000 to 10 000 Km and every time i lose close to 0.5L so to me it sounds like your car burns oil or its losing it somewhere else. i recommend getting a qualified mechanic or someone that knows what they are doing and do a major service and have them change all fluids and keep an eye out for extra oil or oil in that fluid. like oil in the coolant ( bad sign ) then make sure you do a full flush of the oil and put in a thicker oil. 10w40 sounds a bit to thick but i know people that run it on newer models that are are above 100 000 km and have no dramas in fact recommend it

i think you may have just fried your second (drivers side ) one as in the one that used to work. the electrical connections should be identical for both. just switch cables around and see if the old fan can still spin and that will tell you if the motor is working or if that one will also need replacing . both my fans spin

yeap had the exact issue as described as well and it was the throttle body that was dirty and the butterfly was getting stuck. note do not disconnect the cable connection to the throttle body as you will then need to do a relearn process on the ECU. the MAF ( mas airflow sensor is ok to disconnect but I don't recommend turning the car over without it connected Best thing to do : Unscrew the air box and tubes and remove them Disconnect the MAF but just leave it in its tube as you don't need to touch it once you have the Throttle body easily accessible use the hex key to remove the 4 screws that hold it down ( make sure not to lose the gasket that sits between the throttle body and the motor Keep the throttle body connected to its electronic cable (unless you want to do a relearn procedure) put a cloth underneath the throttle body for any carby cleaner that drips off and with another clean cloth and carby cleaner spray and wipe the Throttle body on the inside and out (both sides of the butterfly and the butterfly itself (opening it manually and cleaning the edges) once done. put it all back and reconnect the air pipes and MAF sensor (don't forget it or it will give you a CEL (check engine light) and give it a key some people like to spray a bit of carby cleaner in the air intakes to it cleans the inside of the pneum. I prefer to open it up and clean it properly but either way will do the job

check your exhaust in the morning/ cold start! give it slight rev and get someone to look at the exhaust, a blue tinge smoke usually means you're burning oil so the issue may be that the rings are just worn and you end up burning most of your oil. this is very common for engines that had either a factory fault minor manufacturing defects or engines that have been revved and abused like crazy. Try a thicker oil and see how you go. also check under the car for oil spots that may be a clear indicator of a leak. as for warranty for engines. you have to prove to them the leak is a faulty component and not a wear and tear as normal wear and tear is a minor amount of oil being burnt or lost thru normal day to day driving but if u run out of oil after 2000k that is not normal for an engine. something like this sounds like an engine rebuild / recondition. like changing seals and piston rings and the likes. witch is time consuming.