gwilkinson34

If you get a reputable performance place to make you up one it will be just as good as a jap exhaust and a whole lot cheaper IMHO. And you'll get exactly what you want. Just find the right place to do it...

I'm going to try the Yokohama Advan AD08s in 255/30/19 and see how they go...

Well here's an advertisement for not always taking dyno readings as gospel - I did some testing on the road on the way to work this morning - it's kind of hard to tell exactly since i can't use WOT in 2nd as the back goes by 4500rpm or so but i was making over 1bar by 4000rpm and was definitely at the full 18psi well before 4.5k. At which point i was going sideways down the road and had to back off... I assume the tuner didn't plant his foot on the dyno from down low and this is why it looks lazy onto boost on the chart...?

Boost controller is a Greddy profec II spec B (or whatever it's called). I 'asked' the place that built my car to get the larger actuator on the 3076 as apparently it comes standard from Garrett... I can't seem to move the rod at all by hand...? (and i'm not a small dude) There is a thread on the rod, so could turn off the boost controller as suggested and see what tightening or loosening it does...?

Joeyjoejoe: Yes starting to regret the 19's now... bought when car was essentially stock with no major plans for upgrading it... they look the bizz but makes finding tyres (especially affordable tyres) much harder...

As long as you don't hit rich and retard... my 34 when fairly stock was great with 185rwkw @ 13psi for about a month, then R+R kicked in hardcore and it just became a pig from 4.5k-6.5k rpm. A new ECU or (Nistune flash) should definitely be on the cards - people not looking for big power tend to avoid ECU mods but IMHO they are worth their weight (money?) in gold and give a huge performance / driveability increase throughout the whole rev range... Just my 2c.

Just to see if it helps bring the boost on a little faster - looks a little lazy coming on... The other side of it is playing with boost controller gain etc. If it's something I could do myself without a big $$ outlay on dyno time (as i've just forked out a crapload to get here!) then i might play with it. If it's a bad idea to do it by the seat of my pants dyno / boost gauge then i'll wait till i do something else on the dyno...

Cool cool. I assume this is not the sort of thing I should just play with and 'see how it goes' but rather stick it on the dyno?

No idea lol. Have to ask my tuna... I mean tuner.

Is it possible? Or only really something you can do on an ext gate?

And yes it's internally gated - spent enough $$ without going for external! I was really only after 240-250ish when i began this whole thing but thought i may as well get the best parts and see where i ended up... I think the 273 could definitely go up but it is a daily driver and i want it to last a number of years so don't want to lean on it too much...

Yup .82 rear. The boost does look a little slower than some other graphs - although we mapped it up against an R33 with almost the exact mods on the dyno charts and mine made 30kw more throughout the whole range and almost 70nm more torque throughout until both making the same power at redline - and the 33 was on 21psi. Thinking that's the NEO making the difference. I might just play around with the gain on the boost controller in small increments and see what I can glean re the boost delivery... As for traction it is standard suspension with King Springs - thinking of going the pineapples. If i put my foot past 2/3 in 2nd it breaks out everytime around 4.5-5k. But they are pretty average Hancook 235s...

old 3076? I assume you aren't meaning the 5 blade one? Mine's a spankin new 6 blade. 272.9rwkw @ 18psi - fairly conservative tune, max power is in before 6000rpm all the way to redline so i could lean on it a bit more.

It's a Haltech P2000 - it has traction control (and a million other things) but the guys that built the car and the tuner seemed a bit hesitant to try to set it up...

Hi all, I've just got my car back after some major modifications with a healthy 272.9rwkw before 6000 rpm - obviously my crappy 235s have no chance of holding it in 1st or 2nd (barely in 3rd) so I can't get most of my power down. The search is on for some new rears - to match the fronts i need to go 265/30/19 I was thinking of the Nitto NT05s but they don't come to Aus in this size apparently... The two others i'm tossing up between are the Pirrelli P Zero Rosso and the Yokohama Advan AD08 - prices for these are around the $600 - $650 mark each (ouch ) Anyone have any thoughts? Cheers.

Hi, This is obviously the default 'error' state of the light, but is there an easy way to kill it without removing the dash etc? Cheers.

99 R34 GTT - RB25DET NEO Custom FMIC Apexi pod filter Custom cold air intake / induction 3" Turbo back exhaust Garrett GT3076 internal gate .82 rear 700cc (ish) high flowed standard injectors Haltech P2000 ECU (3 bar map sensor) Bosch fuel pump (?) Greddy Profec spec B boost controller Daily driver 'safe tune' @ 18psi = 272.9rwkw Max power before 6k all the way to redline so definitely has more in it! Tuned by Simon @ Morpowa.

Damn... wish I had known this last week...! Oh well apparently the high flowed standards produce good results and for around the same price. Will find out when I tune for E85 i suppose!

Typo in the title...

Any ideas? Apparently it is going to take 2-3 weeks to get R34 rings for my engine build, but R33 rings seem to be everywhere - will they fit? Cheers!

I guess this isn't general knowledge as yet? My workshop had no idea this was the case a couple weeks ago and I ended up getting my standard injectors high flowed...

Haltech P2000 here. Car should be tuned next week fingers crossed.

Yes there seems to be differing opinions everywhere I look. If anything I'm more confused now than when I started looking into it...!

The Poncams are just an easy drop in that won't hold up the install - been without the car for three weeks already and as it is my daily it's getting very annoying... Not interested in holding it up further with headwork at this stage - Just wondering what i could expect from the cams - essentially better or worse low end response?

I've just had my standard R34 injectors high flowed to 700cc (approx) by a place here in Adelaide - Japanese Motorsport organised it for me. Haven't got the car running again yet, but apparently the OEM spray pattern is much better than the big single nozzle aftermarket injectors. They had problems finding anything that would fit without modifying the fuel rail as well...