skyline4lifer32

Yes it does, probably more so because a f*k up in the air means your in a plane that glides like a brick thrown through the front window of a popo car, What aircraft do you work on?

I don't either, I built the RB20det with tight tolerances because of the thinner synthetic oil that it was built to run with, Stock clearances didn't suit the oil, If i was just going for stock clearances then i wouldn't give a sh!t about the small differences

Hi Andy From the factory a brand new RB26DETT will have this compression Compression Pressure: 171 psi / 300 rpm Did anyone know an R34 GTR V spec is 44 pounds heavier than the standard R34 GTR, That doesn't seem right you'd think they would have shaved weight of not put it on, Probably all the V-spec badges they add, LOL

Not completly lock up just tight tolerences sorry miss worded it, RB cranks have slight variences when measured with micrometer's and ACL bearings also have slight thickness variences If i fitted the wrong bearing's would the RB still be going strong after 25,000km, No it would not how many RB's have you rebuilt?

Hope the prick get's jail time and get's raped up the AR$e until he bleed's, why can't they steal their own crapy crapydoors and falcon's they think their just the best so why would steal a Skyline, oh wait they no their rides are shit and just dont want to admit it, glad to hear you got it back

If the comp doesn't change with the oil test then you could just remove the head with the motor still in, just be sure you do the oil test properly, with enough oil to ensure it get's around the whole piston, and not to much or this will give you false higher psi reading's, the other way to check is to presurize the cylinder with a fitting that screw's into the spark plug hole, with both intake and exhaust valve's closed on the power stroke, then listen for leak's through the intake manifold and exhaust manifold to verify a faulty valve, test each cylinder and see if their is more hissing on the cylinder's with the low compression, just remember to rotate the crack each time to get the cylinder your testing on the power stroke to ensure the cam's arn't holding the valve's open slightly, could also be worn valve seat's causeing low compression because the gtr's run solid lifter's they need shimming to change the valve clearance, but with rb20- rb25's use hydrolic lifter's so they never need touching until one shit's it's self, or you get sick of the 10 seconds of tapping every now on start up and then and replace the f-ing thing, If it was me i would pull the motor and check the piston's and bearing's and fit new one's anyway while you doing open heart surgery on your RB, then you know it's going to be a healthy rb, for a couple of hundred extra it's worth doing now rather than later, You need to know how to gauge clearances for your bearing's, if your not confident doing this then leave the motor in the car and just do the head, if you get the clearance wrong it could throw a big end bearing and end the fun, I found the ACL bigend bearing's to have a enough varience to swap and change until i had all 6 with the spec's i wanted, to the point where the thickest bearing would lock the crank up when i fitted it to one cylinder, if i had just put the bearings in any which way, the motor wouldn't have lasted 5 minute's, It's still going strong 2 year's 25,000km later with abuse all the time, shit that means another service is due on my rb, Hope this helps out a bit, Glad i started on an rb20, will not be so worried if i can pick up a cheap gtr with compression problem's

No a leaking injector will not effect the compression, will only make that cylinder run a bit richer, the easiest way i've found is check the colour of your spark plug's and make sure they are running all the same colour, If you avcr is reading .7 your waste gate's must be working fine, if they wern't you would get alot more boost on stock turbo's, i did notice with my stuffed fuel pump was holding my turbo back, when i replaced it my boost went from 13psi to about 19psi without touching the boost controller

.7 boost, is that on that factory gauge? my factory boost gauge read's +7 even when im running 14psi, and still read +7 when i split a wastegate vac line, when it boosted out to 23psi

best to pull it down before buying part's, no point buying a set of ring's if the bore is damaged and need to oversize it, i rebuilt my rb20det about 2 years ago because i had compression differences of about 30psi, turned out to be a number of thing's from melted piston's, stuck rings, leaking valve's, If its the head gasket you will hear it, if it's blown into a coolant gallery you will see lot's of bubble's in you radiator when you idle it with the cap off, When you find out what's wrong, the first thing to do is find out why, It turned out my Fuel pump was stuffed and could only deliver 35psi max, causeing the melt down of the RB, now running an bosch 044 at 85psi fuel pressure via sard rising rate reg, Now put's out a healthy 209rwkw on 14psi at 85%duty cycle on the stock injector's, Hope you don't find to much damage, good luck

can relate to pretty much everything in this thread, you know you drive a skyline when your 3 year old son can tell his kindergarden teacher that his dad is coming to pick him up when your 2 blocks away, you know you drive a skyline when you get pulled over and the cop says f**k theirs 2 kids in car seats in the back, you know you drive a skyline when old people admire your car and ask you what it is, you know you drive a skyline when you go for a ride in a new $74.000 2010 Ford GT-P and wait for the 315kw to kick in but never does, had to say "yeah goes good" didn't want to hurt his feelings and tell him my rb20det pull's harder, GT-P great 1.8 ton family car though, because thats what it's based on But i've used my R32 gts-t as a family car for almost 4 year's and would choose it over a ford or holden anyday, luckily my wife didn't make me sell it like so many poor soul's you see advertising their liner's because their having a baby and need a family car