Akshunhiro

Where did you bring it?

Likely aftermarket immobiliser Looks similar to the autowatch fob

Hey all, thought I'd mention that I've found a supplier in NSW who does a 26mm core for the NM35 I'd been referred to Fenix in the past but the 688mm wasn't available and I didn't want to cut the support Had my eye on 1 from eBay but saw a TBAP radiator listed on JustJap so checked their site directly Price was $190 with free shipping to Brisbane Haven't fitted it yet but it seems to be decent quality Will finally get around to installing Scotty's coolant bypass mod!

TransGo RE5R05A-HD2 auto shift kit to suit Nissan Jatco 5-speed RE5R05A (350Z, G35, M35 etc.) This is used. I failed at installing one the first time (didn't align the divider plate correctly) so bought another kit and valve body to minimise time off the road. Swapped it over, all working fine now so removed the kit from the old valve body. Located in Toowong but can post for extra. $150

I'd focus on getting the new aftermarket wired into the speakers directly rather than routing through the factory tuner. If it's the integrated model, I have seen guides on bypassing or powering the factory Bose amp otherwise just run new speakers into the doors (bonus being you've got new wiring if you want to upgrade the system with a decent amp down the track). If you're ripping the screen and buttons out, I may be interested in buying it from you.

Oh right, I forgot that was a thing. Here's my original post covering the Raspberry Pi setup. Was using OSMC/Kodi for a while but was a bit annoying having to find something to play after first starting the car. The great thing about OpenAuto Pro running Android Auto is music just starts playing straight away (I'd demo it for you but it defaults to maps and will show location and nav history). Crankshaft is the free version but I reckon it's worth paying for OpenAuto Pro as it really is a bit more polished. I was using the factory screen and an Apple TV remote with a programmable IR receiver (FLIRC) but was a bit tedious with OpenAuto Pro/Android Auto (you really need a touchscreen). Worked out I could get a 7" in the factory location so ordered it from AliExpress. Did have to clearance some of the plastic to get it to fit snug and cable routing was a pain but works okay (I really wanted to retain the factory pop-up and retract setup rather than just having a fixed-screen sticking out of the dash). Next step is to wire up the factory buttons for shortcuts like volume control and previous/next track. Once I do that, I can rip the Alpine unit out entirely. If you're interested, this guy does a good guide on how to set it up and what components you need. It also does OBDII readouts with a compatible adapter.

Holy shit that's expensive. You shouldn't need an aftermarket fascia kit (unless you've got the stock volts, boost & torque gauge that you want to keep). I have the sat nav with the pop-up screen in mine and replaced it with a touch-screen for Android Auto (running OpenAuto Pro on a Raspberry Pi 4). All of those components are separate. If you're removing the SatNav, you could chuck the volts, boost & torque gauge where the CD-ROM is and put a double-DIN unit down the bottom.

Thanks. Things have improved but there is some odd shifting behaviour once it gets hot. I've ordered a trans cooler for it. Manual mode seems a lot better. The P symbol dropping out seems to have disappeared too.

Hey all, just curious whether anyone here has working remote start in their M35 Mine came with it but I didn't realise until I researched what the switch was for. It wasn't listed as a feature on the ad when I bought it and the previous owner didn't say anything so just assumed it didn't have it. I understand these would've been disabled in compliance but I spent some time today taking a look to see if I could get it working. I've reseated the plugs in the module and confirmed it's getting power but there's no signs of life. No relays clicks or beeps. Mine only has 3 wires on the sub loom so trying to work out which does what. From what I could find, it seems the yellow is the bonnet pin safety switch so I grounded that in case it had been disconnected somewhere in the engine bay but still no go. I did also notice all of the dipswitches are in the off position on the module. Not sure if that's normal but doesn't look like it's been tamped with as it had been covered with an adhesive foam strip once adhered to the underside of the steering column trim.

Hey all, need some insight please on what I may have done wrong on my install Finally got around to installing my shift-kit on the weekend and it was pretty straight forward I kept everything organised, followed the instructions to the letter and kept an eye on the ball bearing and filter placement Found another DIY from the G35 forums which recommended flipping the valve body over to keep the upper half separate with (in my case) 5 balls and springs since all the work is done on the lower (also double-checked the holes to be drilled out) Put everything back together and took it for a drive but noticed it wanted to keep bucking down to 1st when in 2nd at medium throttle Figured there may have still been air in the lines so slowly went through all the gears in manual mode and did a few light pulls in D Everything seemed okay so I drove it home but noticed when it got hot it kept either trying to select a lower gear and bumping back up (when in D) and I now get an even worse jolt in 2nd where it seems to not be able to make up it's mind whether to drop back to 1st or stay in 2nd resulting in a really aggressive jerk I've focussed on the fluid level to rule that out as it may have been overfilled after the install It's all okay now but I still have the issue with it bucking in 2nd I have no problems with pulling it all apart again but not sure what to look for I also noticed a weird issue where the P will disappear from the dash when putting it in park sometimes which I've never seen before but going into reverse and park again seems to rectify that Anyone come across this by chance? The gearbox was working fine before the install (I wasn't fitting the kit to try rectify an unrelated issue, just needed a fluid change)

Search and you will find... It's even stickied! I have the HKS OB-LINK and can confirm it uses NISSAN2 if you want a digital scanner.

I thought you were RWD already and could use your existing sump, is that not the case? Edit: Sorry, thought you were someone else.

That's right, not applicable in your case since you're RWD NA.

I only know of one workshop that has done it, not sure about people doing it themselves. It's pretty straight-forward, just need to extend the starter motor cable as it'll sit on the opposite side. It's also recommended to get an aftermarket ECU as the revs don't drop quick enough when backing off to shift.

Yes, that's normal. The gearbox is auto down but not auto up in manual mode. I find it works well on the highway as I'll usually be cruising in 5th when in D but it'll drop down to 4th if I flick it over to manual mode. I can then drop it down again to 3rd if I feel like getting creative.

Haha wow, still confused about the kit. I ordered the cheaper one from Summit which has already arrived. Emailed TransGo while it was in transit and this was their response; They only list one kit on their site for the RE5R05A | TransGo Checking my box, it does say for Turbo/supercharged applications and the instructions list RE5RO5A so was confused about the zero and the oh I guess this kit is fine and may just be old stock from Summit? (I got the last one)

Sorted; What’s the difference between a SHIFT KIT® and a Reprogramming Kit? DESIGNED FOR DURABILITY: SHIFT KIT® valve body repair kits TransGo SHIFT KIT® valve body repair kits correct, prevent and reduce multiple transmission problems such as shift irregularities and durability issues. These kits are used by professional transmission and valve body technicians and are designed for normal everyday use and light duty towing. ENGINEERED FOR PERFORMANCE: Reprogramming Kit™ valve body performance kits TransGo Reprogramming Kit™ valve body performance kits are made for specific applications. If you have a hard working truck that tows or haul heavy loads, look under ‘Installation Icons’ tab for the tow/haul icon. If you have a high performance vehicle, look for the performance icon. These performance valve body kits also include additional features such as; Gear Command™: Allows full control of downshifting and will hold any gear to any RPM. Retains automatic up shifts in the drive position. Certain units allow manual up shifts on driver command. Manual Shift Control: This feature fully converts the valve body to manual/stick shift operation – no automatic shifts. Most Manual Shift Control kits also allow you the ability to easily convert back to automatic. Tuneless: Patent-pending internal calibration technology “tuneless” allows install without the need for additional transmission tuning software or programmers. In summary: If you are looking to retain shift comfort but want added durability, use a TransGo SHIFT KIT® valve body repair kit. For performance shifts without sacrificing durability use TransGo Reprogramming Kit™ valve body performance kits.

Hey guys, sorry to bump a really old thread but looking to fit a kit to mine. Jumped onto Summit and these are the results, are these not the same kit?

Thanks guys, OEM it is!

Hey guys, quick question regarding coilpacks Stag is loooong overdue for a service (still haven't fitted the coolant bypass mod purchased from Scotty nearly 3 years ago!) Wondering whether it's worth spending the extra $$$ for Splitfire coilpacks or just sticking with stock My Stag hasn't been heavily modified and likely won't be so imagine stock will be more than up to the task? It's a VQ25DET with turbo-back exhaust, may do a front mount later down the track but that's it

Can you zoom in more?

Haha that is awesome!

Kudos Motorsport JustJap CJ Motor RHDJapan Nengun

Why would you want to remove the HIDs? I've got a pair of these and they're brilliant.