Akshunhiro

Location? I have one.

As above, in decent condition. Can pick up Brisbane/GCoast. Thanks.

Can I please have the front brake hard lines?

Interested, if the price is right.

RUH ROH What oil are you running?

No problem RSFOURDayz, I just don't mark them as sold till payment has been made. Sending you a PM now, Chris.

Yes, side-mount is still available. Airbags = Gone AFM = Gone Rotors & calipers = Gone Neo engine cover = Gone Dash gauges = Gone A/C compressor and condensor = Gone

BUY BUY BUY!

What car is this in? 32? You may have to source another clutch master. I think the R33 is the one of choice due to compact size and outlet at the bottom.

Thanks for the input, Ben! I too was recommended to run the 33 intake manifold but was reluctant since the ports don't quite match properly (plus I no longer had my 33 intake manifold and injectors). Going to just try the injectors as they are, showing about 12 Ohm's so definitely high impedance. If anything, just need to adjust the k value till it gets a full tune. I still have the 33 thermostat housing so will run that too. CAS makes sense since the outer two pins are 0 and 180, just simply swapping the inner two pins saves spinning it 180 degrees before refitting.

If you're planning on running MAP without IAT, you're gonna have a bad time. I'd go MAP over MAF, easier to tune and more reliable.

That's not possible, it's too cheap

So I have to pay a premium because it's made in Australia? Yes, that makes sense. Since we're a developed country and have a governed minimum wage, the owner just invoices out his time @ $XXX (qualified, self-employed with overheads) an hour to cover his time and tax obligations. I get it now... You're right in it being a 'one of' part, isn't available anywhere else (until it got ripped off) but it's still an overpriced cheque-book racers wet dream.

That's not an acceptable answer. Here in Australia, we get shafted for parts. When I buy new, I order from the US and save a bucket load. For example, just placed an order with FRSport.com as they were nearly one third cheaper than my favourite Australian source (Kudos Motorsports) and even got a further saving due to the strong $AUD. Ordered a water pump, crank pulley and timing belt amongst other things but these stand out since these items alone gave me a saving of $450. Price gouging for performance parts needs to stop. I also praise GKTech as Greg has listened and taken it upon himself to provide a cheaper option while still maintaining quality. Just because you designed and tool all your own stuff, doesn't mean you can be greedy and charge through the roof for a 'quality product'.

x2

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com

Hey all, just wondering if I could get some information/confirmation regarding this swap. So, story goes... Had an RB25 in a 180, binned it, engine was low on compression, part-out. Came across a mint S2 R33 rolling shell and still had most of my RB gear and since I didn't like S-Chassis' anymore I decided to put something together for the new shell. Didn't want to stick with a standard 25, knew about the oil starvation/crank collar issue but couldn't afford to build one. Decided to just get an RB25 Neo AFTER doing some research on the swap but seriously, there's not much information out there. I had PM'd a couple of people (very grateful for their responses!) and it seemed very simple using S2 R33 gear (loom & ECU) but now I am confused about the injectors. Here's what I think I know, please correct me if I'm wrong. Coil pack loom plugs straight in to S2 R33 loom Injector loom plugs straight in to S2 R33 loom Swap to S2 R33 throttle body and TPS Rewire CAS, reverse pin order, same plug Chop VCT solenoid plug off Neo loom to wire into S2 R33 loom since they're different Chop IACV plug off Neo loom to wire into S2 R33 loom since they're different Everything seems straight forward but after buying an auto R34 GT-T half-cut, I came across what I think is an injector resistor (P/N: A15-000J06). Here's where I get a headache. It's my understanding that most modern cars these days run high impedance injectors and my search results have found that both R33 and R34 have high impedance injectors, resistor packs are only for low impedance injectors to ensure the injector is triggered without drawing a butt-load of current and frying the ECU. I can't find any information regarding a resistor pack for the R33 so wondering if it's just a characteristic of the R34 and it's ECU? Just to confirm, I'll be using a Z32 ECU which has been NIStuned and modded to suit S2 R33 RB25DET along with the S2 R33 engine loom. I decided this would be easier than trying to adapt the R34 loom and ECU into the S2 R33 body loom. Also, with the injectors, I've seen conflicting info regarding size. I know S2 R33 are 370cc but are R34 GT-T 350cc or 370cc? I know they're top feed and they're TINY but just wondering if I need to make adjustments to the tune if they are in fact 350cc. Appreciate any info on this subject, I look forward to getting the engine in and running! Currently waiting on parts to arrive to do the timing belt and water pump then it'll be in!

RSFOURDayz, I'll have to check the dash for the coin tray, didn't notice one. Do have the duct though and will separate, $20pp if required. 66yostagea, fan isn't available.

SOLD! Thanks for playing.

BUMP

I'm also chasing one, in white preferably! I have lights but no surrounds.

Bump

Complete head with covers, CAS and VCT solenoid less manifolds. Perfect for RB30 DOHC setup! $200.

Hey all, have a HEAP of leftovers from a half-cut Location in Eight Mile Plains Will be letting go at 'need it gone' prices Auto gearbox - $100 (Comes with torque converter and flywheel) Auto cluster - $50 (No idea how many k's, haven't powered it up) R34 GT-T Auto ECU - $100 Driver and passenger airbag - $50ea Stock radio and pocket with climate control module - $50 Dash mounted gauges - $50 (Stock volt, oil temp and boost) Dash - $50 R34 GT-T front calipers - $150 (Suit 310mm rotors, uses 14mm bolts to knuckle) R34 GT-T steering rack with rack ends - $100 R34 GT-T stock SMIC with duct - $50 R34 GT-T engine cross-member - $50 R34 GT-T auto radiator - $50 R34 GT-T LCA's - $50pair Standard airbox with AFM and duct - $100 Starter motor - $50 A/C compressor and bracket with condenser - Free Steering column with stalks - $50 Coolant overflow bottle - $20 Windscreen washer bottle with both motors - $20 Pictures upon request I'm bound to forget something so just ask Most likely keeping engine loom

Still here!