Akshunhiro

Still here!

Head is still available. Have covers too.

Price is negotiable

Rooney, Richard Brendan 26 O'Connell St, REDCLIFFE QLD 4020 Just sayin'

Hey guys, Got a brand new set of Splitfire coil packs to suit Series II R33. Ordered these from FRSport.com last month as I was planning on running them on my RB25DET but am now upgrading to a Neo. $500. Located Brisbane Southside.

Oooh, keep me updated. I'm still chasing an RB25DET. I might also get around to grabbing that door card bracket too

Got 2 dud RB25DET's. Not going to rebuild them so selling them. One is assembled but has blown head gasket. I do have covers and knock sensors for this one and maybe a cas if I can find it. The other has had the head removed. Bare, no sensors, manifolds or covers. Heads are complete minus covers and VCT solenoids. Will come with water and oil pumps, timing covers and crank pulleys. $400 for the assembled, $300 for the split or $250 for each head, $100 each block. Blocks have crank and pistons. Located Brisbane Southside.

I'm chasing a manual tailshaft, please let me know if you have one available. Thanks!

Ah, thanks man! Didn't realise the WTB forum was below all the vendor listings. Queensland specific classifieds! Awww YEAH!

Hey all, couldnt find a WTB thread but chasing a complete engine loom for series 2 R33 GTS-T Unmolested, complete. Thanks, John.

$100 posted for handbrake cables?

OK then. Appreciate it!

Thanks but I'd rather not pay their premium. This isn't specialty hose, it's not even under pressure.

Hey all, I'm having trouble finding some aftermarket hose to feed my powersteering pump from the reservoir. Mine has been joined and is leaking so I'd prefer to replace it with an aftermarket length but don't know where to go. I've tried the general auto shops but they only carry OEM gear but the lines I have found aren't big enough... Can anyone recommend a workshop who would carry this and cut me a length in Brisbane? Thanks.

SOLD!!!

Yeah that's OK. Thanks for the PM!

Hey, I'm out west near Gatton but don't mind travelling.

Looks like 101 Motorsport do EMS. They seem pretty good from what I've read so far on various forums.

Hey all. Just wanted to know if there was anyone you'd recommend who tunes EMS and knows Nissans. Recently bought an S13 with an RB20 and found it is fitted with a Stinger and I think it's running a bit rich especially on the cold start side so wanted to get it looked at/optimised. Also, would you recommend attempting this myself? I had a quick look over the manual and seems pretty basic, it's got a base tune so just need to tweak the fuel map and I'm pretty sure it's got a Bosch wide-band fitted so A/F ratios shouldn't be a problem to monitor or correct if needed. I realise this isn't a toy though but surely this model with a MAP sensor coupled with a wide-band would pretty much be fool proof right? Thanks in advance!

I recently went through this on my S13 trying to get the stock tacho working with the RB20 (had a monster tacho on the dash and I needed to get rid of it ASAP!). You should be able to get a tacho module from a 32 (or any Skyline with a 6) and replace that with the one in the dash on the S14. I was told to replace the whole tacho but, since it didn't match the dash (and the faces aren't the same size so you get light shining out around it at night), I only replaced the modules (so had to remove needles and carefully set the needle at idle once the 32 tacho module was fitted). I took it for a drive prior to removal to see what rpm a certain gear sits at while at a particular speed and worked out it was 3rd, 60k's an hour @ 3000rpm. I also noted the idle rpm as this is easier to set the needle by (good luck trying to put the needle on while doing 60k's in 3rd trying to hold 3krpm) but went back to the 60k theory to test it. I did find it was slightly out but I think this could be due to the spacing between the numbers between the two different tacho faces. Also, the monster tacho wasn't too accurate down low for idle rpm so I just set the stock one at around 850rpm. I am glad to get the stocko working though and have the monster off my dash even though the stocko could be slightly out, I'm not too concerned.

Item Summary: Tomei HICAS Lock II Location: QLD: Brisbane Condition: New / Opened Box Reason for Selling: Not needed Asking Price: $150 Delivery Methods: PickUp Contact Info: PM or post Extra Information: I received a Tomei Lock II kit, along with some other goodies the previous owner hadn't fitted yet, after purchasing an S13. I'd prefer to do the mechanical HICAS lock to shed a bit of weight so looking to sell this kit. The box has been opened so I'm not sure if it's complete (it looks like it is though) but it is new. It's also a genuine item. For those who don't know, this is a convenient way of locking HICAS without all the mechanical nonsense involved. It's also easily reversible should you want a better turning circle This will suit pretty much any vehicle with HICAS There are no english instructions though although they are available online. Basically it interrupts the signal received by the HICAS computer to tell it everything's OK and there are two shims which lock the rack underneath. Can meet in Brisbane or post at buyers expense. Sorry for the poor pic.

Item Summary: Tomei HICAS Lock II Location: QLD: Brisbane Condition: New / Opened Box Reason for Selling: Not needed Asking Price: $150 Delivery Methods: PickUp Contact Info: PM or post Extra Information: I received a Tomei Lock II kit, along with some other goodies the previous owner hadn't fitted yet, after purchasing an S13. I'd prefer to do the mechanical HICAS lock to shed a bit of weight so looking to sell this kit. The box has been opened so I'm not sure if it's complete (it looks like it is though) but it is new. It's also a genuine item. For those who don't know, this is a convenient way of locking HICAS without all the mechanical nonsense involved. It's also easily reversible should you want a better turning circle This will suit pretty much any vehicle with HICAS There are no english instructions though although they are available online. Basically it interrupts the signal received by the HICAS computer to tell it everything's OK and there are two shims which lock the rack underneath. Can meet in Brisbane or post at buyers expense. Sorry for the poor pic.

Yeah, I worked out that it'll cut out straight away if a door is opened. Turn the key off first then open a door and it'll work fine. Strange but that's what I've worked out on mine. Nothing in the manual stating this though...

OK, don't mind me... I didn't understand the manual properly. After talking to Mongoose, I realised one side of the ignition cut goes to constant.

Anyone? Thought it may have been due to the ignition sense on the wrong side of the cut but according to the manual, it's correct (on the key side of the cut). I haven't gotten into it again but maybe the contacts need to swapped? Would that make a difference? I've got the live side (key side) on the top and the dead side on the bottom then the second set of contacts for the starter cut directly below on relay #2.