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Akshunhiro

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Everything posted by Akshunhiro

  1. Over-tensioned, no doubt.
  2. If you need tools to remove the oil filter, you're doing it wrong. Lube the seal, hand tight = easy removal.
  3. Hang on... 'FIT PISTONS AND RODS: $245.00' 'REASEMBLE ENGINE: $950.00' SUM-TING-WONG In all fairness, if you can't do it yourself or aren't confident, it's a lot to spend BUT if it's built properly, it'll be worth it. A lot of backyard builders out there who have NFI what they're doing so it's not something you skimp on. Does it come with warranty? You would be able to source parts cheaper but some builders won't let you supply parts as they won't warrant it.
  4. I've got one from an R34 GT-T. I believe they are the same since they use the same LCA's and crossmember.
  5. The new Rio's are quick, man! Seriously though, you have a boost leak and the turbo is being overworked trying to hold boost.
  6. Dirt cheap? How cheap? If it's the copy 'pen' turbo timer, it's stuck on 14.7 even with the wire disconnected
  7. Here's my thread. Was easier for me since I already had the engine loom. Didn't consider splicing the looms because I couldn't find any info regarding wiring so just stuck the with R33 engine loom.
  8. Have a look at my thread, mine is running but with all S2 R33 wiring. There's a bit of work needed to splice the 34 engine loom into the 33 body loom. 33 wiring was the easiest option. Yeah, can run aftermarket inlet manifold for non-Neo RB25's on the Neo.
  9. Not too bad for $3.5k Low compression just means run more boost to compensate
  10. What alarm is it? Mongoose's new models have turbo timer built-in. Default is 2 minutes though, maximum is 5. Should turn off after 2 minutes if programming hasn't been changed. To disable, you normally press button 3 with the car running and you'll hear the siren chirp to confirm whether it's on or off.
  11. Still heaps of stuff here, need it cleared out! R33/34 engine cross-member Steering rack with rack ends R33/34 steering column with uni to rack includes barrel and key R33 S2 coilpack loom R33 S2 injector loom Nismo thermostat suit RB/VG R33/34 OEM radiator R33/34 power steering pump R33/34 starter motor GReddy FATT
  12. Hi James, I can see you're new. Going over your topics, they have been done to death... Do us all a favour and SEARCH!
  13. This should cover everything. Good price too. What I'd recommend, remove the stock oil heater/cooler and replace with a oil filter stud to allow the oil filter to screw straight to the block. Perfect for relocation kits! Here's how I did mine; (haven't plumbed in oil cooler yet).
  14. I didn't think it'd be too important. Surprisingly mine is working but I'll leave it disconnected. Search results turned up issues getting into HICAS diagnostics mode and low load map, nothing to lose sleep over.
  15. Just wanted to bump this as I'm curious as to how important it is. I've got a Neo in my 33 and since the manual box was previously in a 180, the stock plugs have been cut off. I've reconnected the reverse switch but didn't bother about the neutral position switch as I didn't think it was needed. If I blip the throttle, I can hear the VCT solenoid kick in so that's working okay, is there anything else that may be affected if I leave the switch disconnected?
  16. Screw your problem, dash looks awesome in blue!
  17. Yeah, HICAS. Basically 4WS.
  18. I dare say it's the dimmer. They have to put them in for compliance (stupid, really). Just dims the dash.
  19. I didn't do the valley cover, it was done by Andrew at AM Performance, Adelaide. It came powder-coated black. I sprayed the cam covers with VHT Wrinkle Plus.
  20. There's a locking bolt to lock it into position as well as the slider.
  21. I don't believe so. When I was researching a 25/30, I read that the average was 8.2:1 which was considered too low. Obviously depends what pistons you use but 8.5-9.1 was recommended.
  22. Just thought I'd show mine off. With regard to the seals, different part numbers between Neo and standard RB25 but they are the same.
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