Akshunhiro
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Everything posted by Akshunhiro
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Hydraulic To Solid Using Neo Parts
Akshunhiro replied to Ganador's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Use the neo head! -
GTSBoy nailed it, do it properly, too much slop in the ball joints. Get a non-HICAS subframe from an S14, replace the balls joints in the knuckles with bushes (SuperPro SPF1638K) and run adjustable toe arms.
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11220-21U00
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No difference for HICAS, 33/34 same same.
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Fact; VCT is not required when you have the torque of a 3L ITB's are only there for response and have no performance gains when used in a forced induction application LS2 or LS7 will be a cheaper, better & easier option
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If it's the same as Steven's, it's a very common hose to split. PITA to get to as well. Best way is under the car, remove starter motor. Unless you want to remove your inlet manifold.
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r34 gtt stock intake pipe size?
Akshunhiro replied to RedBaron's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Pretty sure it's 2.5" I just fitted a blitz turn flow FMIC and the tank ends and piping was 2.75" and I noticed the diameter drop on both pipes to connect to the stock FMIC piping. -
None of that available. Sure don't.
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I've got a Nabco (BM50 equivalent) from an R34 GT-T (ABS) if interested, $100.
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As above, in good condition. Brisbane / GCoast area.
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Hey all, As the title says, I'm in need of a front bar. Preferably in white, with or without the factory lip. I already have the lights so they're not necessary but I do need the plastic surrounds. Can pickup in Brisbane or G/Coast.
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GONE
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+
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Yes, thanks I realise that. The S2 uses a 2 pin plug which plugs into the OPS (switch/sensor both in one). One wire does the light, the other the gauge. Temp is a separate sensor on the 34 but still part of the stock oil heater/cooler. Got it sorted though, I swapped to a known working sensor and the light works as it should. On with the engine off and off with the engine running. So, I do have oil pressure... phew! Now to sort the tacho...
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Okay, I'm a little worried now. Earthing either of the pins turns the oil light on/maxes the oil pressure gauge so I thought they might be the wrong way round. Given the limited room, I cut the plug off the neo loom and crimped spades onto the end to plug into the R33 loom. Now the light comes on and gauge sits at 0 and doesn't move once the engine is running... Not concerned about the gauge, more-so the light.
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Having a look at ECU pinouts, it looks as though it goes straight to the dash. I'm wondering whether the 34 OPS is different to the S2 R33 OPS. Both are 2 pin plugs but if they're the opposite way around it could explain it... Tried searching part numbers and couldn't find one for the R34 GT-T. I'd be very surprised if that's the case anyway.
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So, just wanted to check on what should be happening during ignition and engine run. My oil pressure light doesn't light up before starting nor come on when engine is running. Checked voltage at the bulb and it appears to have 12v on both legs... I know it should light up before starting but only the CEL is coming on. When turning ignition on, the pressure MAP gauge goes to 0 but the oil pressure gauge creeps up to just under the first line. Is this right? I didn't think it'd start to move until it detected pressure. I know the stock oil pressure gauge is useless but my oil light isn't even coming on with ignition so trying to find what could be causing the fault. With the loom unplugged from the pressure switch/gauge I don't get anything either, no creep and no light. Once the car is running, the pressure gauge creeps up to the first line but doesn't increase with revs. I'm not so worried about the gauge, more about the light but I still wanted to confirm if the oil pressure gauge creeps up when you turn the key to ignition. I'm running an RB25DET Neo with a S2 R33 loom and Z32 ECU. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ki47Ita4Ps4 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3N0mpzER8Gw
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TTT is on the money. Notice he wrote 're-inspect'. You can take it somewhere else but it'll be the new fee for inspection. Re-inspection is under the original RWC fee which is why you have a limited time to get it back to them. I'd take it back just with the new pads, if they're busy they may not even bother putting it on the hoist again.
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Final bump before I strip it.
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SOLD!
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Autopal aka Trunk Monkey. Works in addition to NATS. They get removed during compliance.
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Still here!
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Nah, that's long gone. Wasn't scrapped though, was put to good use.
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I also have power steering pump, starter motor and alternator available. $50ea.
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Well depending on how soon you want to grab it, if you're close, can test on the spot otherwise I'll see if I can test it prior. Shouldn't be a problem before Friday.
