YawRate

The R33 is now sold. Thanks to everyone who saw the post and got it touch.

If anybody is in the market for an R33, or knows somebody else who is, have a look at the below link. I have it in my head that I would like to sell it to a skyline enthusiast, hopefully someone local will fit the bill. Thanks

1998 R33 GTST Series 2 40th Anniversary Unfortunately the time has come to sell my R33. It has been a reliable daily drive for the last 8 years and has never let me down, hopefully I can find a new owner that will continue to look after it moving forward. The basics: May 1998 build, imported in 2005 192,xxx kms Located in Canberra $9,600 The driveline is fairly stock, it’s never been seen a track, and for what it’s worth I drive like grandma. It has never used any oil, never fouled a spark plug, never missed a cold start, etc. It's even fairly fuel efficient (10L/per 100kms if you drive like me haha): OEM Turbo OEM ECU OEM R34 SMIC Full turbo back exhaust, consisting of: Stainless bellmouth front/dump pipe 100CPI Cat Trust Power Extreme II Catback- with the centre muffler deleted... I'm biased but it sounds excellent Apexi SAFC Neo- Tuned making 197rwkW at 0.8bar with a Turbosmart boost tee Exedy Heavy Duty Clutch Splitfire Coilpacks Engine oil has been changed every 5,000kms without fail The gearbox and diff oil was last changed 25,000kms ago Other parts on the car of interest: Tein Street Advance Coilovers DBA 4000 Brake Rotors Rota wheels 18x9.5+27 all round Federal tyres, 235 front and 265 rear Apexi Pod Filter- In an enclosure OEM 4 door front fog/indicator lights OEM GTR rear wing Apexi RSM with the G-sensor Oil pressure, Oil temperature, Boost pressure, and Water temperature gauges Having owned the car for so long, just about every serviceable component has been replaced during my ownership. So every vacuum and coolant line in the engine bay, every gasket, the thermostat, the thermostat housing, the radiator, all the tie rods, the rear main seal, the clutch slave cylinder, etc. etc. etc. If I was keeping it, the control arm bushes would be next, and so on, and so on.... My point is, this has never been a heavily modified car, the priority has always been bullet proof reliability for daily driving. In that regard I could not fault the car, ever. Being a daily driven car, it has to be said, this is definitely not a concourse condition car. There are paint defects, and it has experienced a few inconsiderate people in car parks over the years. What I can say however is that all the paint, and all the clear coat is intact, so it still cleans up fine. Hopefully this is demonstrated in the below pictures. There are a few bad points with the car, which I’m happy to disclose up front: The tacho has failed. I’ve been hesitant to replace the whole cluster as its original to the car, and given how many imports have been wound back, I don’t want to be seen as doing anything dodgy. I use the Apexi RSM for a tacho if required. The drivers seat bolster is ripped All the tyres are camber worn on the inside edges The registration expires in around a month. Although I’m happy to discuss selling it with a pink slip with any prospective buyers Hopefully I can find somebody who is passionate about these cars, who is aware of how this R33 GTST differs from the average example you see on the street. I’m happy to answer any questions that people have, please post them below or send me a PM. Thanks for reading.

Hopefully I don't derail the thread, but where are some of these cars being advertised exactly? I check SAU/Carsales/Gumtree regularly, but am I missing a trick by not using Facebook? Don't worry OP, I'm not looking to steal that N1 away from you, but I am interested to see what 50k+ of R33 buys you (page 6).

I had access to a decent camera for the first time, so I had a go, despite my shaky hands and lack of photography skills...

Reading through your posts Kinkstaah, you mention the boost as 17, 20 and 22psi through the first 3 gears, what is it in 4th and 5th? Or did my reading comprehension let me down? Without getting technical, I assume you're confident that the car isn't just traction limited in the lower gears? That would be the 100% simplest explanation but I didn't see it mentioned in your previous posts. Or slippage somewhere else in the driveline? Even if the mechanical engine load is absolutely identical through the gears (unlikely even with perfect traction, level road etc.), remember that the aerodynamic load will be higher in the higher gears Depending on what you list the boost as in 4/5th gear, I don't think what your observing wouldn't necessarily be an "issue". For example, nobody has yet touched on the different locations that you are reading the intake pressure from vs where the wastegate pressure is being observed from, and I'd guess one is reading static pressure, the other total pressure (static + velocity pressure). What I'm getting at is its possible that the difference in airflow through the engine (what actually matters) in different gears might be hardly varying, yet producing noticeably different pressure readings.

I wish, they're a Rota P1-R. I definitely wanted front dish, but with the Gtst's narrow guards and "lumpy" front caliper, I wasn't sure if an D9R would clear at the front in a 9.5 wide rim. The +12 offset may have cleared? But then I may as well have got a 18x10+18 XD9 with the amount of guard work/camber that would have been required. If it turns out that the D9R clears the front caliper in a 18x9.5+23, that will become an incredibly popular wheel choice for Gtst's in the year to come, for sure.

In case the thousand white Series 2 GTST's posted previously wasn't enough...

Thanks mate. I looked over the pictures of your white GTST in detail, your contributions to this thread are as helpful as anyones. I haven't conidered the stanley knife option, I think the isue will be that the spot that rubs is the exact location of the wiring, and the whole idea of having them is to protect that spot haha. Its not the end of the world either way, I just wanted to list everything out for other peoples information so they can make informed decisions. On that.... the other point I should have listed is that +27 is probably as high at offset as I'd be wiling to go at the front for a 9.5 rim. I found a few examples of people running 9.5+30, but given I have 3mm of clerance to the UCA at full lock, I'd say +30 would be to close for comfort. Obviously this would be dependant on the exact details of the steering geometry and even the amount of play you have in our steering rack...

Given the hours of research I did reading this thread prior to purchasing them, I think its only fair I post up a few pictures of my new wheels, it might be of use to someone else in the future. They are 18x9.5+27 all round. 235/40/18 at the front and 265/35/18 at the rear. The height is the minimum on a set of Tein Street Advance, I rolled all the guards (probably more aggresively than I needed to), and the front inner splash guards are removed. I have left the plastic splash guards in that sit over/behind the front wheels. I was gonna remove them, but wussed out when I saw the wiring in behind the right front. As a result it does rub the plastic on right side at full lock, where there is a bulge over the wiring itself. Also rubs the plastic splash guards at the final few millimetres of front suspension travel, ie. going over a very aggresive bump. I think I'll try moulding the splash guard with a heat gun as the next step. Raising the car up slighty would fix it too, as would a slightly lower profile tyre. Excuse my hopeless photography skills, and cosmetically flawed car. I washed it a half hour prior to the photos but it rained heavily on the way... typical haha.

If anyone has a steering wheel for a R33 Gtst S2 (s15 is the same I think) I'd be keen. Doesn't have to be immaculate. Having all the stitched seams intact is the main thing.

I'm with DVS32R, I thought when in "open loop", the signal from the o2 sensor is being ignored, therefore it shouldn't be the culprit. For reference, an open loop control system is one without feedback, the outputs a direct function of the inputs. A closed loop control system is one with feedback, the outputs a function of the inputs and the feedback. In the case of the skylines ECU the injectors outputs (amongst other outputs) are subject to the o2 sensor signal (feedback), but only when its running closed loop, ie. at low engine loads and not on cold start enrichment as far I understand.

I'm not going to attempt to diagnose your cars issue (if there is one at all), but for reference, I have recently hooked up an aftermarket oil pressure gauge into my car (also a S2 R33), and its pretty clear now that the stock gauge doesn't really have a clue whats actually going on. Specifically, my stock gauge only seems accurate +-2BAR (ie. inaccurate), and is very, very unresponsive.

Do you still have the radiator mentioned above?

Car/Engine: 1998 Series II R33. RB25DET. Pretty stock, enclosed pod, exhaust, and a manual boost controller set at 0.6 BAR. Petrol of Choice: Usually BP Ultimate, although also Shell V-Power when convenient. My preference is BP Ultimate, but logically the differences I 'observe' between the two is likely a placebo effect. $ Per Tank: I never fill it past halfway, typically something like 25 litres @ $35. Interestingly V-power is always around 8-9c cheaper than BP ultimate near my work. KM Per Tank: The average for the first 4000kms of ownership is 13.5l/100km, which I calculated using a spreadsheet in which I've logged all the kms, provided the tank is 65 litres (is it?) that would be 480kms a tank. Comments: For the most part I drive the car in a fuel efficient manner: I only ever half fuel the car to save weight, I only occasionally hit full boost, and very rarely rev anywhere near 7000rpm, (Although these last two are consequences of a short drive to work in which the oil temperature only reaches steady state as I'm arriving) I also use very light throttle applications so that there is insufficient load to spool the turbo, I'm always looking miles ahead in traffic so that I rarely come to a complete stand still, etc. etc. I'm currently looking for a good deal on a used SAFC (PM if you have one......), I think there is scope for its to pay for itself through fuel savings in a reasonable time-frame, and even a small performance increase I would see as a bonus. Tip: Use your boost gauge as an 'economy' gauge, the closer you are to -1 BAR gauge pressure (0 BAR absolute pressure) on the intake, the better, obviously.

I'm guessing its unlikely you haven't this bit already, but I'm after the right inner wheel arch plastic guard thingo. Sorry I don't know the actual name, but if you've still got it, I'm keen to get my hands on one. As for the RDA slotted rotors, if the rust is only minor and superficial, put me third in the line of interested parties. You wouldn't happen to have pictures by any chance?

Yeah, thats how my R33 was connected when I first got it ie. straight to the actuator, using a single piece of 6mm vacuum hose, boost solenoid not connected to any vacuum lines (with the other vacuum line you car doesn't have blocked up). Everything ran fine, I have since plumbed a manual boost controller into that line, because I wanted a bit more boost. To reiterate, with this plumbing, your wastegate will now open at whatever the actuator pressure is supposed to be (5psi for auto, 7psi for manual, apparently), so no overboosting causing R&R. For refernce the stock gauge will then read at approximately half (~3.5mmHg). You shouldn't have any ECU issues at this boost level, it should be well within the control range for the stock ECU.

If thats the case, I'd just bypass the solenoid (ie connect the two lines going into/out of your boost solenoid together). That'll give you 5psi (safe but slow), then in future, if you want more boost, plumb your boost controller (the one thats been removed) back into that spot between those two lines and you could adjust it for more boost.

I'm currently looking to complete my cat-back exhaust to turbo-back. For what its worth, the advice I've been given is to avoid both Catco and X-force, and go with MetalCat. Obviously you'll have to spend more for a MetalCat, but like anything I guess, you get what you pay for. Also, regarding the flow rates that are often quoted, remember that these usually aren't worth the paper their printed on. One cat might quote say 1000CFM, but won't tell you that the bench flow rate was 4000CFM or something ridiculous. Alternatively, another cat might quote 500CFM, using a bench flow rate of 1000CFM. So the second cat is actually twice as efficent (50% vs 25%), but first cat manufacturer will still claim that their cat is better, quoting the higher flow rate. So only take a CFM value onboard if its provided in the context of the flow rate of a straight through pipe (of the same diameter) for reference (and good look finding such data on the internet, though if you do, pass it along, lol).

For reference, the stock setup is alluded to in the first picture in this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/In...st-t185848.html I'd say your cars hitting R&R because the wastegate isn't opening in your setup as intended, because its not getting the 5psi "signal" from the intercooler piping until the boost solenoid opens at 4500rpm. The boost solenoid is supposed to be connected between the intercooler piping and the wastegte actuator using a T piece, so the wastegate is always getting a "signal", and the stock boost controller merely modifies that signal pressure in order to achieve a higher boost by bleeding off 2psi. I'd guess you car is running infinite boost below 4500rpm and 5psi above 4500rpm. Simple fix would be to connect the intercooler pipe straight to the actuator, that way at lest it wont overboost, instead you'll have a constant 5psi (or 7psi, as the manual will say, or 6psi, as I found with this setup on my car, so who knows, lol, but between 5-7) all the time.

Any closer and you'll see just how badly it needs a clean

I'll check that out, thanks.

lol yeah, I've got the impression that the vast, vast majority of R33's have a coil cover in much better nick than the one I've got. Also, I've seen you the ads for your car, The interior/exterior looks in super condition, I'd be too scared to touch it.

Hey everyone, I was hoping someone could help me find a coil pack cover for an RB25DET locally. I know there are few available in the for sale section/ebay, but I was hoping to get one on my car ASAP, specifically before it rains again. My story is that I bought the car 2 weeks ago and everything has been fine, but it started misfiring quite badly earlier this week. I worked out that the problem was water had pooled up quite a lot in two of the park plug valleys, seemingly enough to create a short circuit, in turn causing the misfire along with corroding the plugs. The water came from the heavy rain the car was out in all last weekend I assume, with the problem being contributed too by the state of my current coil cover: Its was cut in two pieces (I guess so you can get it of easier), the rubber seals have had it and it was missing a few bolts for good measure. Anyways, if anyone know where I can get an OEM one soon, that'd be great, or even one of the unnecessary glamour aftermarket ones if the price is reasonable. Also, I was looking to get an R34 SMIC for my R33. I was hoping someone who has put a FMIC into their R34 GTT has one sitting around I could pick up cheap, if so, let me know. Also, before anyone lines up a post saying "just get a FMIC" or mentions something along the lines of "volumetric cross flow rate vs intake temperature" or alludes to the susseptability of a SMIC to "heatsink", just go easy . Furthermore, do you think this is the kind of mod that I should be looking to do myself, or is there someone who I could take it to in Fyswick (where I work) who would do it during the day whilst I'm at work so I don't have to make any travel arrangements?

Thank for this. No excuses now when I replace my antique double DIN cd player with a single DIN usb one + gauges.