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Everything posted by matticus
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[mel] Fs: Black 1997 R33 Gts-t 40th Anniversary
matticus replied to matticus's topic in For Sale (Private Whole cars only)
Vehicle has been sold. -
All Items Sold BF Falcon front mount inter-cooler with custom piping to fit R33. - SOLD Kakimoto Regu 06&R cat back 3" exhaust with titanium tip - SOLD Apexi Power FC with Hand controller - SOLD Apexi Turbo Timer with R33 adapter harness - SOLD Apexi Power Intake - SOLD R32 Waste gate - SOLD JJR Stainless Split Dump pipe with O2 Sensor - SOLD
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Only 2 items remaining. BF Falcon front mount inter-cooler with custom piping to fit R33. Kakimoto Regu 06&R cat back 3" exhaust with titanium tip Apexi Power FC with Hand controller - SOLD Apexi Turbo Timer with R33 adapter harness - SOLD Apexi Power Intake - SOLD R32 Waste gate - SOLD JJR Stainless Split Dump pipe with O2 Sensor - SOLD
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Updated availability Apexi Power FC with Hand controller Apexi Turbo Timer with R33 adapter harness - SOLD Apexi Power Intake - SOLD R32 Waste gate - SOLD BF Falcon front mount inter-cooler with custom piping to fit R33. JJR Stainless Split Dump pipe with O2 Sensor - SOLD Kakimoto Regu 06&R cat back 3" exhaust with titanium tip
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[mel] Fs: Black 1997 R33 Gts-t 40th Anniversary
matticus replied to matticus's topic in For Sale (Private Whole cars only)
One accident when I was the owner. New bumper and reinforcement bar from hitting someone from behind (about 15kph). The front end (fenders, bumper, bonnet) were all resprayed at this time. The LH rear guard was like that when i bought the vehicle. Not sure what caused it. Previous owner in Australia bought it that way. -
Hi All, After 5 and a half years of owning my R33 i am selling due to having a lease car from work. Its a great condition Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-T 40th Anniversary edition. In addition to the great base car that the R33 is, the 40th Anniversary edition also include a factory fitted body kit and 40th Anniversary badged driver and passenger seats. I have owned the vehicle for the last 5 years and in this time it has never had an issue. I have it serviced every 5000kms and only fully synthetic oil is used. It has a full service history since vehicle was imported in 2007 by previous owner, Comes with genuine 17" BBS RS with 225 at the front and 245 at the rear for exceptional grip and balance. Genuine Nissan Skyline floor mats are fitted throughout the vehicle and clip into locking tabs so they don't slide around the floor when driving. The Sony head unit is an internal USB/iPod MP3 player so you can plug your USB or iPod into the pop-out tray and it will slide back into the unit. No messy cables hanging around. The head unit also has built in Bluetooth so you can make calls. The doors are fitted with Sony 6.5" split speakers. The crossover is hidden in the door trim securely. The rear speakers are pioneer 6" woofers. The sound system is clean and crisp. Inspections are welcome. Drivers on full licence only as this car is not suitable for a P-plater. Please, no tire kickers. 11,000 with Roadworthy or 10,000 without roadworthy. Carsales link is here for pictures. Can provide other pictures and information of the vehicle on request.
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Updates availability Apexi Power FC with Hand controller Apexi Turbo Timer with R33 adapter harness - SOLD Apexi Power Intake - SOLD R32 Waste gate BF Falcon front mount inter-cooler with custom piping to fit R33. JJR Stainless Split Dump pipe with O2 Sensor - SOLD Kakimoto Regu 06&R cat back 3" exhaust with titanium tip
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Hi everyone, I am selling the mods from my R33 as i have taken it back to stock. Located near Epping in Victoria. All items available for pickup. Postage available on some items as listed below Apexi Power FC with Hand controller - 900$ plus postage (will post anywhere in Australia) Apexi Turbo Timer with R33 adapter harness (no cutting of wires required) - 50$ plus postage (will post anywhere in Australia) Apexi Power Intake for. - 50$ plus postage (will post anywhere in Australia) R32 Waste gate (11PSI when fitted to R33 GTS-T) - 30$ plus postage (will post anywhere in Australia) BF Falcon front mount inter-cooler with custom piping to fit R33. No cutting required to fit. - 200$ (Pickup Only) JJR Stainless Split Dump pipe with O2 Sensor - 120$ (Pickup Only) Kakimoto Regu 06&R cat back 3" exhaust with titanium tip - 500$ (Pickup Only) PM me if interested.
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R33 Gts-T Turbo Oil Line Touching Jjr Split Dump
matticus replied to matticus's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Thanks! I'm less concerned if its the water return line. Still a bit of an annoyance. -
Hi everyone, I noticed the other day that my split dump is touching (what i think is) the turbocharger oil feed line. I have attached two photos of this. Has anyone else had the same problem on their car and what did you do about it? I cant imagine it is any good for the turbo to have the oil heated by the exhaust first. Any ideas on what I should do? Change to a bell-mouth rump rather than split? Thanks in advance!
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Well I am still no closer to finding the issue. I hooked up my laptop to the car with Nissan datascan and there were no issues with the airbag module... My only guess now is that the guy who wired in the alarm system might have used that wire for some reason (hopefully an honest mistake). Can anyone recommend a good auto electrician who has worked on skylines in the Melbourne area? Or maybe an alarm specialist who knows R33s?
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Nah, I wish it was that easy. Checked the LED with a battery and works without issue. I've buzzed out the circuit too without battery disconnected so I know there is no problem there. Only interesting thing I have found is that after 6 or 7 seconds from turning the ignition on the circuit goes short to ground so I can only assume that the module is busted. Still, it would be good to know if a scan tool can help or if anyone else has had the issue.
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Hi all, as the title says my airbag light is never coming on in my series 2 R33. It has been like this for a while and I finally got around to checking it. So far I've turned up nothing but I suspect the airbag module has an internal fault. Is there anyone in Melbourne who has a scan tool that can read errors in the airbag module? Has anyone else had the same issue as me? What was the solution? Thanks all!
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Hi everyone, As in the title, i am looking for the front washer motor off the washer bottle for an ECR33 skyline. I only need the front motor. Part number is 28920-71L00. Looking around 15$ plus postage. Please PM me if you have the part. Regards, Matt
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Thanks guys, Pulled off the bumper tonight and fixed it all up! Was surprised at the amount of play in the reo.
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Thanks ARTZ. Are you talking about the reinforcement bar bolts? is there some vertical adjustment in the reinforcement bar?
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The bumper seems pretty solid on there. Ill take a look at the bolts tonight. Is there any vertical adjustment in the bumper?
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Hi All, I have noticed that there is a large (1cm) gap between my bumper and headlamp on the passenger side. This has been developed over time and has not always been like this. I remember that about 6 months ago it was not there. I have searched the site but cannot find anything. I am struggling to figure out why this has happened and am hoping someone on the forums has had this before and knows how to fix it. Attached is a picture of the front. Does anyone have any ideas?
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Looking to buy a set of front anti-squeal brake shims for an S2 R33 GTST. If anyone has a spare set with no damage shoot me a PM. Willing to pay 20$ + postage (live in Melbourne) .
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3 Tyre Options- Opinions Appreciated!
matticus replied to Yeedogga's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
I just bought a full set of KU39's from tire rack. Fronts are 225 wide and 99$ each Rears are 245 wide and 112 each shipping was 350. total was 775. pretty good set if you don't want semi's and better than the KU31's that i had before. locally i got quoted 1156. -
just a question to anyone who has bought form tire rack. Did you require tire racks' address to complete the transfer? My bank asked for one and i did not have it. They ended up putting in Indiana. Guess ill have to wait and see what happens.
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Price Drop to 45,000$ Needs to sell FAST!!!!!
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Hi All, My friend is moving overseas and is selling his 370Z. The car has been very well looked after and goes great. http://www.carsales....z-2009-12373142 Carsales comments: Sale price: 46,500 $ 2009 Carbon Silver Manual Nissan 370z. Brand new tyres and with road worth certificate ready for a quick sale. Vehicle comes with a dealer fitted reversing camera, chromatic lcd rear view mirror and cargo net. Invidia Gemini exhaust is an option, provides a great note and a little extra pull at low to mid revs. Very clean and well looked after, never missed a service and never been in an accident. Test drives are welcome. Vehicle can also be seen in Scorsbey or Traralgon, Victoria. Please contact via sms if you would like any extra info. Contact Sam via SMS on 0432 210 241
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Hi All, My drivers side window regulator broke recently and after looking and asking around, i got a new regulator from Nissan (no motor) which needed installing. This tutorial will be good for you is you have a S2 R33 coupe where you need to change the regulator and/or the window motor. I didn't take any pictures but if I get a chance ill pull the door apart again and get some. Just a note before hand, i really recommend getting the plastic inner weather shield from Nissan as your old one will probably get torn up in the process. 1. Get all required tools and parts a. Long 10mm socket b. 12mm socket c. 3" socket extension d. Phillips head screwdriver e. Fat Phillips head screwdriver (only required isremoving motor from regulator) f. Flat head screw driver g. Grease h. Whatever parts you need (recommended to also buya new weather shield (80860-22U00) 2. Wind down window to the bottom 3. Undo the three screws along the bottom of thedoor trim 4. Remove the plug in the door pull cup and undoscrew 5. Remove pull cup and window switch assembly andunplug 6. Pull off door latch surround. Trick to doingthis is to use a flat head screwdriver to undo the clip at the top of thesurround. Just wedge the flat head between the surround and trim and flick thetab off. 7. Remove door trim. Start pulling from the bottomand remove. 8. Unscrew door handle support. 9. Remove speaker shroud (4 screws) 10. Remove plastic weather shield 11. Remove any extra glue still on the door panel. 12. Remove car to back of mirror and unbolt themirror. 13. Unscrew belt moulding at end of door. 14. Remove belt moulding 15. Unbolt the 2 fabric covered window guides 16. Unbolt the two window stoppers (next to thewindow guides) 17. Plug the window switch back in and wind thewindow up about 2 inches till you can access the bolts holding the window tothe regulator 18. Get someone to hold the window while you unboltthe window from regulator (2 nuts) 19. Pull the back end of the window from the doorfirst and bring the front through the back too. 20. Unclip the power to the motor 21. Undo the 6 bolts holding the regulator on. 22. Remove regulator and motor. 23. If you have a new regulator and need to swap themotor over then you will need a short and fat Phillips head. a. I ended up making one but getting a large Phillipshead and grinding it back. b. The three screws which hold on the motor arevery tight and easy to damage so be careful! 24. Grab your new regulator and adjust it so thegear and motor will line up and hold it in place with a vice grip. 25. Screw motor onto new regulator and make sure itis tight. 26. Grease up all teeth on the new regulator and themoving rails. 27. Before you put the regulator and motor assemblyback into the door, hook it up to the wiring and test it. 28. Slide the regulator assembly back into the doorand put back the 4 bolts and 2 nuts to hold it in place. 29. Connect the power to the motor and test itagain. Make sure the regulator is in a position where you can bolt the windowup again (about 2 inches from the bottom of travel) 30. Slide the window back in the opposite from howyou took it out. Be careful not to scratch any tint you have on it. 31. Line the window up with the regulator and screwin both of the nuts to hold it in place. 32. Move the window to the bottom position. 33. Bolt on the window stoppers at their lowestposition and tighten. 34. Bolt on the window guides at their lowestposition and tighten. 35. Reattach the exterior belt lining and screw inplace. 36. Wind the window up as far as it will go. Do thiswithout auto up. 37. While outside the car, close the door. Measure thegapping front and rear to where the window should be. Remember thismeasurement. 38. Wind the window down again a little and readjustthe window stoppers up the same amount as the gap (mine was about 7mm) 39. Tighten the stoppers and retest where the windowends up. If the stoppers are too high the window will get stuck on the outsideof the door. 40. Once it is in a good position wind the windowdown again. 41. Get your old (or new) weather shield and put itback on the door. Again, I suggest getting a new one from Nissan as it islikely you will test your old one. 42. Screw the speaker back in place. 43. Screw the door handle support back in place. 44. Reattach the mirror and replace mirror cap. 45. Put the door trim back on the door and tighten 3screws along the bottom. 46. Replace the pull cup/window switch assembly andscrew it in place (put the plug back in the pull cup too) 47. Once again, test your window. Might be a good idea to give it a clean now too! Well, i hope this helps someone in the future, if you have any questions, shoot me a PM.
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After how many kms does it come back on? If its after ~10kms then it will probably be your steering angle sensor. Get someone with a nissan data scan setup to plug in and monitor the steering angle. I had the same issue on my R33. Put a new SAS on and its good now.