matticus

Hi all, I am after a SRS airbag module for my R33. It needs to be from an uncrashed vehicle with airbags still functioning correctly. Part number is 98556 98U00. Looking to spend about 60$. Shoot me a PM if you have one available! Matt

Will i just had an XR6 Turbo IC fitted to my R33. Have a Power FC, RB20DET wastegate actuator, fuel pump and turbo back exhaust. Pulled 178RWKW. Only minor trimming or the bumper and no cutting of the reo bar required. pics to follow...

Turbo back exhaust RB20DET wastegate actuator Denso fuel pump Power FC XR6 Turbo intercooler 178 RWKW

Hi All, Im after a R32 RB20DET actuator in good condition. PM me or send me a message on 0400 405 157. Im in Melbourne and can pick up or will pay for postage form another state. Im looking around the 20$ mark. Regards, Matt

hey all, I just back from 9 weeks overseas and i have the same issue now. What has been the cause of everyone's problems with the front washer?? obviously want to get this fixed as soon as possible. regards, matt

Hey mate, looking for an srs airbag module (sits under the centre console) Pm me with a price

Not quite in Victoria but saw a grey R34 on South Africa with blue stripes and a massive rear wing! was hammering past me and I was already doing 140... south african road rules FTW!!! BTW, i am from Melbourne, just in SA on work....

Make sure they're clean and you are off grass (bugs will get stuck) Use a lint free cloth to apply and leave to dry for a while.

Very true, the only layer of protection against deterioration is a surface coating. Most older cars didn't even have a coating, hence why the head lamps on Skylines go yellow. The coating applied in the auto industry is very different from Cquartz and is designed to last 10+ years. In the end, both will do the same job and I am sure one bottle of Cquartz will last 10+ years if you only use it on headlamps. So in the end Charles89, go with the Cquartz, I will keep everyone posted if a UV sealant comes out from Invision distributes.

Well I stand corrected, the rep from CarPro who make Cquartz got back to me and they use a very high quality UV blocking agent. The coating should last for a year if applied correctly. @Charles: check waxit.com they have it for sale and are in Tulla.

I had a different understanding but I will happily be proven wrong. I will still maintain that the UV protectant that is used on head lamps will do a much better job than a wax or sealant at blocking UV as it is specifically designed to block UV radiation rather than a multitude of jobs. Let me know what you do find out though Mitch as I am interested to know.

Hey Charles, I doubt it will be in the next few days if they come out with something but will let you know if i ever do hear antything. As for the C.Quartz, it will be great to give protection from scratches/blemishes but it will not protect from the headlights goign yellow. It is made to not break down due to UV light but it wont stop the UV passign through. The coating that is supplied with the Philips headlamp resto kit is the same coating that the auto industry uses and it is there to stop UV radiation. Im gonna ask around work tomorrow to see if one of our suppliers has access to the sealant. Hopefully one of them can help us out.

Hi Charles, You will need to apply a UV sealant otherwise you will end up with headlamps the same colour of your car I used the sealant from the Philips headlamp resto kit and 6 months down the track they are still good. The sealant they have is the same you will nee on new vehicles and leaves a rainbow colour reflection in some angles (dont worry, this is normal) The plastic in headlamps does not actully contain UV filters so you will notice that enw cars will have the coating. I was actully going to get some more sealant from the group that import the resto kit so I will let you know if i can get hold of some. Other option is to buy the kit which is ~40$ and you will get a bottle of sealant and applicator cloth. Just a tip, do it on a sunny day off the grass and let it dry for four hours or so. EDIT: Just talked to Invision Sales (distributer) and they dont ahve the bottles of sealant for sale seperately but they said there may be future developments changing this. They said they will contact me if something changes so I will let everyone know. Matt

Grey S2 33 in Ford Head Office car park. Seen a few times

Hey all, I was looking at my suspension the other day and noticed the left hand and right hand springs have a different distance between the coils. The suspension is stock (afaik). Is this normal or is it possible the springs (and maybe shocks) have been replaced? Thanks guys.

PM replied

Hey all, I'm looking for a S2 headrest as mine has some puncture holes in the top. I'm prepared to pay 30$ for one or 15$ to swap. I'm located in the eastern suburbs of Melbourne. Call me on 0400405157 or pm me. Thanks, Matt

Hey guys, ill be in! See you all tonight!

My new one arrived from the UK on Friday. Really good quality and has all the correct locating holes for the gear boot. Handbrake boot also has the clips to keep it tight around the handbrake. The seller was topgaiters and it cost me 30AUD including postage. http://myworld.ebay.com.au/topgaiters/?_trksid=p4340.l2559 Look around for sure but these ones do fit very nicely and do look good.

If there is no steering input after a certain distance then the HICAS unit will believe there is an issue and go into a failsafe mode. The failsafe mode will move the HICAS motor to its default (central) location and signal the warning. After a key cycle the code is cleared until it comes up again. One way to ensure that there is no steering input (as seen by the HICAS unit) is to have a non-functional steering angle sensor (SAS). When i had an issue with my SAS it would flag up after 10km. Got the new SAS installed and problem is fixed. I can also get my car into diagnostic mode. If instead you have a Nissan consult (an actual one, not an aftermarket) you can connect to the HICAS unit through the OBD port and read any fault codes that are present or have been in the past.

See if you can get your car to go into diagnostic mode. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/22193-hicas-diagnostic/ The diagnostic mode will tell you the error code which is cusing the light to come on. If you cant get it to work then most likely your steering angle sensor is stuffed. the reason it wont work if the steering angle sensor is broken is that the system will see no steering input and it will not complete the required objectives to go into diag mode. I had this issue, went to a wrecker and picked up a good one for 50$ and installed myself. now my HICAS is workign properly and good again.

The easiest way t fix it is to get a new tacho that works and swap it over. There are tutorials which in some cases fix the tacho but ive had no luck. I bought a secons hand tachometer and havne had a problem since. its pretty easy to change the tacho over, just have to get the cluster out and then its three screws to get the tacho out. If you get a whole new cluster, you can see how it works.

So it was deffinitly the steering angle sensor. Just has it replaced with a second hand one from the wreckers. took the car for a nice long drive and nothing came up. Got the HICAS into diagnostic mode and all is ok. I hope the info on here helps. Ill work on a D.I.Y. replace you steering angle sensor.

I'm in need of the steering angle sensor from a S2 R33 GTST. I need one in full working order as mine is stuffed. It looks like the picture below: Call / Message on 0400 405 157 or shoot me a PM.

Haha, you know I love my car too much for that . I've tracked the problem down to the steering angle sensor (SAS). NOTE: I drive a 1997 S2 ECR33. I do not know if the following is true for other Skylines. There are two signal wired coming from the sensor, one LH and one RH. When the wheel is turned the signal will gradually change from ~5.0V to ~0V on one of the signal wires (depending if you are turning left or right). This change in voltage tells the HICAS controller which way the wheel is turning. If after a set distance (10km) the HICAS controller does not detect a change in signal (steering input) then it will flag an issue and go into fail-safe mode. I have read that some people also have troubles getting the HICAS controller into diagnostic mode. If your SAS is not working then the HICAS controller will not detect you turning the wheel and will therefore not go into diag mode. To diagnose the issue in this case, go to your boot and unplug the wiring harness from the HICAS controller. Using the below picture locate the steering angle sensor and neutral sensor pins. Grab your multi meter and connect up to one of the SAS pins (21 or 22). Have someone watch the voltage change (or not change) when the steering wheel is turned. If all is working fine then the voltage should go from ~5V when steering is centred to ~0V at full lock LH or RH. Just understand that one will change when turning the wheel right and the other will change when turning left. If the voltage remains at ~5V then most likely the SAS is stuffed. If the voltage is 0V then you most likely have an open circuit. I hope this helps someone.