robjay

Dear all Barry is a legend, I guess many years have gone by. Does anyone know if or where Barry's dyno is?

Hi All, I posted a forsale into the WA private whole cars section but nobody apporved or said anything. Photos & contact details & price 3k ono. Car rolls and steers and engine runs as normal. In any case, I have smashed my r34gtt auto 2000 with 97km's through a large light pole at the rear drivers passenger window and its not pretty. Took out the pole plus it then fell on top of the roof impacting the roof and smashing front window. I guess just in case there is any chance of fixing this where would I go, otherwise how much is it worth whole to anyone - Is anyone interested???, I wil post pics a third time but right now im waiting to see if forsale gets posted. Other than a massive disfiguring smash down the side and roof, things work as they should. Should be a good hafcut for a conversion of some kind. Other than that farkin depressing event.. I feel for all the guys before me who have loved and lost..

The point was that Dynolicious and similar software is fairly accurate and if there was anyone out there that has used it. Most of the replies so far strike as either young and immature or just immature.<br class="Apple-interchange-newline">

Hi All, I was very excited about this new Iphone app called dynolicious. Unfortunately for me I only have an ipad (with some difficulty holding it vertical weged between the center console and some misc items - umbrella works well actually) so I used that instead and this is what I got after quite a bit of fooling around and some testing. settings were: 1450kg , drive train loss 25%, roll-out 1inch (how sensitive is a real drag strip - i.e before it senses your reaction time vs star time), dollout distance (12 inches - default value - is this an unfair start?) (trigger 0.1G) Car is a stock r34gtt auto - would up the boost to about 14 psi - no other mods. Is this G of 0.65 accurate - can anybody confirm? How would a similar car with manual trans perform? What should I expect from an IC & 3 inch exhaust, should I also do fuel pump and EBC. My only complaint is that I think the Kw are out of whack, I was expecting around 230kw. Has anybody else tried dynolicous and if so what settings have you used. I think its pretty much on the money as I did a 14.71 quarter at a real drag strip with the same set-up. <br class="Apple-interchange-newline">0-10 km/h:0.67 sec0-20 km/h:1.25 sec0-30 km/h:1.82 sec0-40 km/h:2.34 sec0-50 km/h:2.94 sec0-60 km/h:3.57 sec0-70 km/h:4.24 sec0-80 km/h:4.97 sec0-90 km/h:5.73 sec0-100 km/h:6.51 sec0-110 km/h:7.39 sec0-120 km/h:8.49 sec0-130 km/h:9.75 sec0-140 km/h:11.07 sec0-150 km/h:12.47 sec0-160 km/h:14.02 sec Elapsed Time 60':2.73 [email protected] km/h330':6.59 [email protected] km/h1/8 mi:9.68 [email protected] km/h1000':12.34 [email protected] km/h1/4 mi:14.57 [email protected] km/h<br class="Apple-interchange-newline"> Max Speed:164.0 km/hMax Acceleration:0.65 G'sPeak Horsepower:207 kW<br class="Apple-interchange-newline">

Yes but its no sports car, why don't we see this in the after-market mod scene. Is there anyone in australia with a VGT set-up ? can a common tuning shop set up VGT? just surprised its not main stream.

Hi Guys, I am inspired by a drive in a 135i with masses of torque down low and started to think, has anybody set up any alternate turbo designs. Namely Variable vane turbos and after some goggling I found this http://www.blaylock-turbo.com/switchbladeturbocharger.asp and looked impressive... any thoughts on this - would it work on petrol high rpm cars? The Switchblade™ turbo uses patented technology to adjust the A/R ratio of the turbo to increase the speed of the turbine wheel under low flow conditions. The key to the technology is the Switchblade which is centered in the exhaust housing of the turbo. The Switchblade is controlled by pressure sensors and an electronic actuator so that under low boost conditions it rotates to close down a portion of the housing and increase the exhaust velocity over the turbine tips. This increased turbine speed translates into improved responsiveness and the result is a significant reduction of turbo lag. Once a significant boost has been generated, the Switchblade rotates back to a fully open position and the advantages of a larger housing are realized.

Its all RH not LH.

Hi All, I had a small hit on my front RH bumper and side panel - decent scratch and a fracture on the bumper. In addition the front RH quarter panel had a small dent. This was repaired at a panel shop for approx 1200 - private job, paint job and panel beating was good enough although not pristine (what I mean is if you look closely you could see that some small specks on the bumper were not filled and sanded overall unnoticeable. What got me annoyed was that the bumper clips that hold the bumper flush to the body work are no longer doing that, as a consequence there is a small gap - maybe 6 mm between the bumper and the front LH panel and spans maybe 15 cm front on leaving a visible gap - this was as a result of me hitting the bumper and probably causing some of the clips to break or snap. So anyway I am disappointed that the panel beater did not fix this up - is it not reasonable that it would be part of the deal considering the FL panel and bumper had damage resulting from the one incident. In fact it was in the discussion at the time of quoting - we discussed that the bumper would need to be taken of (bollocks - they did not take it off) they also pulled my leg on - the GT badge needs to be taken off (bollocks no.2 the paint job did not go that far or anywhere near that) Basically I feel very let down. The assessor said that its common on these cars and there's not much he can do(bollocks no.3). When I picked the car up I questioned them about this and they said it was not in the quote and neither was anything about the removal of the bumper and the GT badge) I have had work done at this place before and thought fondly of them and unfortunately this time round they let me down, they also send out a customer satisfaction survey but for some reason they have not sent me one this time round - wonder why. I might try and get one from reception to see if it would do me any good - but given that I've been brushed off its probably a waste of time. Question is - is there any place where I can send feed back other than complain directly with the beater? is there anything I can do apart from naming names - which I wont do (as much as I would like to though) Last question - should I try and fix this myself taking the bumper off and trying to find the right clips and or reattaching the bumper flush by other means. Where on earth can I even get these clips? if not is there anybody out there that can point me in the right direction.

Case closed. Accident report was recorded, police department deemed not worth investigating and have dismissed it. I'm over being angry. Sad contract between what Australia is and what it should be. If anyone has been to Singapore for example, think Japan, Switzerland, Germany. Now the other bunch, think Australia, US UK. Unfortunately ...

In Wa

Thanks to all, I will keep this thread updated. At this stage I am going down the get a copy of the report sometime this week. It costs areound $35.

Thanks for that, I am thinking it through - still fuming over it and thinking I shouldn't just take it. I'm a decent bit over 35 and have not claimed a single thing yet sgio full cover is still $1300 to insure a $15000 r34gtt, 4 years on I have saved myself quite a bit by not insuring. Insuring imports is a con basically. Herein lies the typical insurance con. I can go out and buy a BMW 335i 2010 for 90,000k agreed value and pay just $1100!!!! full cover insurance. Lets not beat around the bush a 335i will probably do better than a basic r34. And at my age the chance of me writing off a 335 is no different if not higher to an r34gtt. So what's wrong with an older bloke finally getting an r34 he always wanted when he was young why do Insurers still burn you till the day you are past your used by date, well I could just get a 335i and burn money.

At this stage I reported it on the on-line crashreport site which by the way is fantastic https://www.crashreport.com.au/ it allows you to accurately place vehicles, passengers, gps coordinates on Google map for placement - in a word neat. Police say that once its processed in 4 weeks or more then I can get a report and any contact details of their insurer and or them directly and write a letter with a quote to fix the damage. Not sure what will happen from there.

Hi All, Picture this, a sunny clear day. Curent model falcon ute passes me (two tradies with load of gear) on the fwy. Plaster board or some kind of wooden item maybe 1.5m by 1m flies off the back and tumbles, due to them passing me & wind contitions or whatever it wasnt fastenend down - scrapes the side of my car in several places. I follow the ute and explain the situation, they dismiss me as a joke and take off refuse to give out contact details. I have now reported the accident with photos and full description, I have their license plate no. ofcourse. I was going to just leave it be but after a good wash there are a few decent scratch marks in several places. And no insurance Long story short, yes am angry other than that for those in the know am I wasting my time? Im not cash strapped and feel like I need to have some kind of recourse laughed in my face rude and arrogant *****. Im quite happy to spend on a lawyer. Can anyone point me to lawyers that specialise in this? yes I know it is cheaper to fix it and be on my way but to me it is gone past that, I will spend big to get these bozos in trouble. Part 2: I have a witness, earlier in the day my gf had new tyres fitted in Osborne park and while this took place I had new shocks fitted at pedders to my car in osborne park and we have receipts to this evidence just an hour or so near the scene. She was behind me following me and witnessed it. Your thoughts?

Hi All, Can anyone point me to a good panel shop, have an issue where bonet is closing crook due to one of the panels being pushed. F me if I knew how it got that way, it looks as if someone has actualy kicked it or reversed into it with decent force - theres a decent dent near the light. Anyway I am realy pissed off about it because bonet is constantly in contact with the side 1/4 panel and if you ride a speed bump or driveway fast enough it will make a rubbing noise. Shgould I just go to any place? the last place I went to and said can you fix my sagging front bumper they told me to diy - in otherwords piss off, too small & troublesome.

Here is the e-bay link http://cgi.ebay.com.au/YELLOW-JACKETS-COIL-PACKS-SKYLINE-R33-GTST-R34-GTR-NEW-/160559984417?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item25621eef21#ht_9496wt_1039

Hi , Was wondering whats the diff between Yellow & Split fire other than price? Any good bad experiences to be vented?

Hi, MY r34 gtt auto with 10psi boost and no other mods what so ever. 1st 1/4 14.75 2nd 1/4 14.71 95.84Mph So the way I see it is that don't be shy to burn rubber Spin tires at 6k rpm until you see smoke - don't overdo it no point in hurting your car. Most importantly load up, hold break pedal to the point where your tyres are about to spin. Leave it in auto - forget tiptronic it isn't better and TURN OFF traction control ! So load up to spinning point and let it rip - remember the tyres are hotter and way stickier than normal dont think that you will just do a burnout Doing this I startled a few modded awd lancers & rexes - if you out gun them at the start they might bog down and do a shocking 14.5 not everyone is a pro at launching - its all in the launch.

r34 gtt rb25.. sorry missed that point.

Hi All, Folks I tell you my engine used to be super smooth at 80k kms I was very proud but now My bad run in of having a service at a stinking Midas I wish I never did. I am now 100% convinced that my valves need adjusting, valves are noisy when cold and as engine warms the noise almost dissapears. I have had one opinion that its normal (the mechanic agreed that there is lifter noise but to him it seemed acceptable), however this was while engine was well hot but on cold starts its down right depressing. My belts are slipping a third time - not timing belt they think its aircon or something else. But how is it that after 3 adjustments belts squeel on cold starts, this time just chirping momentarily. Has this got anything to do with timing being stuffed up? whatabout harmonic ballancer plays a part? Also can this be caused by running too lean or slightly lean over some time (I run 10psi unmodded car)? What is this kind of thing likely to cost (adjustmenent) can it be done while I wait and am I hurting my engine the way it is after about 2000kms? If I am right I need a valve lash adjustement. If I do a valve lash adjustment can I go for say poncams while I'm at it since engine is being ripped open? sigh... I tell you going to Midas is like going to Red Rooster instead of Nandos.. farking fark.. letting off steam ...

Time to time I had encounters with Wrxs and turbos of sorts and find the drivers to be very agressive trying to race show off and those kinds of things, they usualy sport loud exhausts. Anyway yesterday I saw one such wrx, looked to be an 06 with an uber loud exhaust who decided to what seemd to be flog it out of every corner. So anyway the point is my r34gtt auto 12psi dead stock (yes stock, no IC 3" system or anything just a bleedvalve) has kept up and in fact I was gaining on him around 5000rpm in 2nd. He seemed to get a bit pissed that I folowed and absolutely belted the car out of corners - and so did I and was gaining. I always thought that Wrxs are awesome awd out of corners will be untouchable. but am I right in what im thinking a stock r34 can and will give these guys a suprise. Considering he had a 3" surely he must have upped the boost as well. What kind of stage 1 boost would wrx's typicaly have? .. then there was this stock xr5 turbo, who hammered it in 1st to redline which was so laughable - but anyway nevermind about that.

Change of plans, I ended up following these examples http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/nissan-patrol-gq-y60-ford-maverick-11/audio-wiring-colours-mean-what-19575/ http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~74637~PN~1 Also this diagram http://www.scribd.com/doc/4742725/The-Install-Dr-Nissan-Skyline-Stereo-Wiring is 100% correct - what threw me was the different colors. For r34's use the bottom one of course. Also - remove the band expander if you have one, however my radio is not connected as the jap 2 pronged plug needs to be matched to a standard aerial male plug. And did it myself - why? well dont take this to heart but Perth is a fairly boganised place that stocks the most common parts that are - mostly falcon, commodore, camry, magna etc parts. Nowhere could I find an AERPRO adapter in perth for nissan of that model after phoning around Supercheap, Repco,Jaycar and Alltronics Err more generalisation, Perth is a mining town where - certain services and businesses are simply not found within a 15km radius south of perth so.. .not only that they are either fully booked or closed .

Problem workaround found 1- get Nissan to ISO adaptor http://www.aerpro.com.au/list.php?pcode=APP0120&cat_name=New+Products&cat_no=&product_name=ISO+CONNECTOR+TO+NISSAN++&cat_sno= 2- get ISO to JVC adaptor http://www.aerpro.com.au/list.php?pcode=APP8JVC2&cat_name=New+Products&cat_no=&product_name=JVC+TO+ISO+HARNESS+16+PIN++&cat_sno= Done, no need to cough up and waste Aerpro distributors list here http://www.aerpro.com.au/dealer_au.php

Hi All, Already posted in the audio section but thought if I post it here I might get more people to look at it.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/353570-r34-audio-wiring

Oh yeh, the coax yes will get it soldered.